My Backcountry Camper Trailer Build

[njtaco]

I went through the tongue weight issues with my camping trailer too. Too much sway at speeds over 50mph. I took the spare off the back (50 lbs?) and put an extra lp tank on the front for a net gain of 100-ish lbs of tongue weight. Well, a little less at the coupler, but it solved my swaying issues. This was a 1100lb, 12 foot long, 6-1/2 foot wide, 8 foot tall travel trailer, btw.

How about removing the spare and taking the trailer for a ride to see if its better?

 

[R_Lefebvre]

I'm not sure where people are getting that I'm having a sway or instability problem. It's not. The only issue I'm trying to solve with more tongue weight is to stop a clunking back and forth which only occurs under sharp throttle or brake input, and which is largely caused by the sloppy drawbar fit. There's an 1/8" slop in that joint, and it's an 8" drop hitch.

I'm *not* having a stability issue.

Also, the center of gravity is the same as other off-road trailers with huge tires and ground clearance.

I realize the tire location isn't optimal, but it was the only place that it "fit". Can't put it on front, because it interferes with the motorcycle. Can't put it low, because it would interfere with the rear door.

 

[njtaco]

Ah, now I think I understand. Sorry 'bout that.

I read more thread, and it sounds like the 8" drop drawbar is giving you side-to-side and up-and-down play because it is undersize compared to the receiver. Am I getting that right? If so, how about one of these or something like them?

Here

or Here (video) (Product link)

(That second one may not work with your wiring on the truck.)

And a Reese/drawtite product

Of course, more tongue weight will probably resolve the up-down movement, but the side-to-side may require more.

Another idea I heard of (which I don't endorse) is laying some beads of weld on top and one side of the drawbar, and grind to fit so it's snug in the receiver. No slop!

Of course, if I'm still not "getting it", please keep my 2c and put it towards the build :elkgrin:

 

[R_Lefebvre]

No, that's basically the issue at this point. The side to side is mostly gone, and the up and down it better with the bolted in tongue extension tube. But it still clangs a bit up and down. I'll probably look at some of the anti-clunk products if it's not fixed after the tongue weight adjustment.

 

[njtaco]

Hey Rob, how much "overlap" is there between the receiver box and the drawbar? Would a longer drawbar (the part that goes in the receiver) reduce the amount of "looseness"?

Just throwin' ideas out there, hope you don't mind.

 

[JIMBO]

:sombrero: OK, I'm outta here !!

--JIMBO

 

[Titanpat57]

Looks great behind the Disco Rob....awesome match :smiley_drive:

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Hey Rob, how much "overlap" is there between the receiver box and the drawbar? Would a longer drawbar (the part that goes in the receiver) reduce the amount of "looseness"?

Just throwin' ideas out there, hope you don't mind.

I don't think that would help. The drawbar is about the same length as the receiver tube. I might try another 3" drop bar that I have which fits much better. But ultimately, I'll be fabricating something anyway. But I can see where you're coming from. This would all go away if I could get a bolt into the reciever, but I can't fit it.

 

[UK4X4]

I don't think I've ever had a snig fit in my reciever

All mine have duct tape on them, after a while they loosen
but the clunk is now muffled by the tape.

permanent...after all that welding practise I'd just run a few beads and grind to fit

sorry, but I hate the spare mount too !:costumed-smiley-007

 

[R_Lefebvre]

permanent...after all that welding practise I'd just run a few beads and grind to fit

That's what I'll do if I have to.

sorry, but I hate the spare mount too !

That's fine. I would have liked to have had it lower too, but it just didn't really fit anywhere else. The mount had to be bolted to structure, not just sheetmetal, and the large expanse on the back has nothing behind it. So, it's bolted to a vertical member, and a roof bar. I did have in mind a lot of trucks and expedition campers in particular that have it mounted in a similar location.

It's a compromise, but it's really not an issue. It fits into the slipstream of the tent. I made sure of that. I will in all likelihood make a new mount for it that will move it more central and lower, at some point. Just to make you guys feel better. :coffeedrink:

Edit: Just pulled the trigger on these puppies that I'm going to use for the slide-out for the fridge and stove. I shoulda done this long ago and stopped screwing around trying to figure out a cheaper way.

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1 &cat=3,43614,43620&p=58870

Edit 2: Anybody have any good ideas for how to seal the slots in the roof through which the tent mounting bolts fit? Basically, there's 8 slots, 1/4" wide, 1" long through which pass the bolts. Right through the sheet metal. The seal would preferrably be flexible, and I'd really like reusable but I doubt I'll be so lucky. I was thinking, worst case, squirt a little foam up there. Won't see it unless you look through the tiny gap between the roof and the tent. I'm not sure I could glop some silicone because it would probably just drip out.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Nevermind, I just had a good idea on the sealing, I'll post it up when I'm done.

 

[ntsqd]

One slider of mine is very loose in the receiver's. I laid a thick bead of black silicone down each the corners of the tube and slid into place. On that particular truck I did not expect to need to remove it for some time.

If you want something more easily removed or adjusted then coat the inside of the receiver with some type of releasing agent (WD40 etc.) before sliding the part into place.

BTW I was able to remove the slider, but it took a little bit of work.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

I did the trick somebody posted, and welded beads onto the drawbar, and ground them to be a snug fit into the receiver. I couldn't get it perfect because the reciever tube isn't a perfect bore either but it's much tighter. I left the battery just ahead of the rear axle instead of relocating it onto the tongue, but I threw my recovery tool bag (40lbs) into the front storage compartment to simulate a bit more of a typical load. I think I've got something more like 60lbs tongue weight now. It'll go up more as I build out the front storage compartment with the kitchen slide.

I took it for a test run and it's 99% better. No more chunking back and forth when it gets upset by a bump. Tows much better now. Actually, it tows better than my utility trailer does.

So, I think I'll leave the battery where it is, inside in front of the axle. I only need to worry about venting. I bought a 12V Deep Cycle (not marine/starting) Group 31 battery, wet cell. I couldn't find a box that fit, but I'll keep looking. Don't know if I need a vent?

 

[OlympiaFJ60]

So, I think I'll leave the battery where it is, inside in front of the axle. I only need to worry about venting. I bought a 12V Deep Cycle (not marine/starting) Group 31 battery, wet cell. I couldn't find a box that fit, but I'll keep looking. Don't know if I need a vent?

The Buicks with the battery under the rear seat have little tubes that fit the vent holes and exit through a grommet in the bottom. You said you couldn't find a box that would fit, but maybe you could epoxy some vacuum lines to the vents, T them together and poke a little whole in the bottom or out the side.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

So, I took the trailer on it's first trip this weekend. It's not finished inside, but I wanted to try out the tent. I added about 50lbs of tools in the front along with the 50lbs of recovery gear, so tongue weight was something like 100lbs. I pulled it about 120 miles on 40mph two-lane highways. It pulled very well, I had to keep reminding myself it was back there. It occaisionally clangs around a bit on that sloppy drop hitch but it's not too bad, much better than before. No sway at all.

Best of all, I got terrific milage. Last time I measured milage on these roads, I got about 17.5 mpg, and that going in the downhill direction. This time I got 15.2mpg going in the uphill direction, and 16mpg coming back down. Really, can't complain about that! I've heard claims about roof racks doing more damage than that! It really feels like it fits into the slipstream well, and you only feel it pulling up hills or accelerating.

I met some off-road buddies I hadn't seen in a year, and they were very impressed with the wormanship. It was weird going on a trip and having a mostly empty truck. The only thing of substance in the truck was the fridge and suitcase.

The only big SNAFU was that I forgot the ladder! :elkgrin: I had to park the truck beside the trailer and climb the bumper, not a huge deal. Sleeping in the Maggiolina was nice, the mattress is great, but I think it could use 1" of a softer foam on top. It was also a little more confining that a large ground tent would be.