My Fuso4x4

Ferjablito

Active member
Do you plan on repainting the truck to match the camper colour?
We are also going to paint the cabin (seeing the result, which is not too bad, perhaps with the same paint). At first, we had the idea of painting it professionally with conventional matte paint for an aesthetic finish, and also because it is less exposed to scratches than the box, but it has not turned out so badly and the paint is scratch-resistant. I don't think it will last forever, but let's hope it lasts.
 

Ferjablito

Active member
Man I get so much pinstriping and can’t imagine doing anything that cost more that $29.99. Ok Maybe a wrap so I can take it off every couple years.
We used this scratch-resistant textured paint, let's see how it turns out. There are other brands on the market. Another one is Raptor, but it didn't offer the range of colors we liked.
It's not cheap, at 49 euros a can.
 

Ferjablito

Active member
Not that it matters now, but Raptor is available in a tintable form, so it can be any colour you can imagine.
metallic, pearlescent, etc. is impossible with Raptor at least here in Spain, this color is based on this Mercedes color, what happens is that this paint changes with the light
 

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Ferjablito

Active member
We have placed a rear and left stabilizer bar from the C718 model that shares chassis measurements and requires little adaptation, we have placed two leaf springs and we have removed two height blocks to not gain more height, we have put King 2.5 shock absorbers and we have moved the rear ones through the gap between the drum of the removed twin, they are tight but they do not touch and instead we have placed pneumatic support suspension, it is not completely finished since a square must be placed between the lower support and the axle.
Lateral stability has improved quite a bit, we are happy, but it could still be improved a little more by placing some 4cm spacers per wheel. The drawback is that it would be necessary to reinforce the ball joints, heavy-duty steering ends, and reinforce the steering box. With this modification, the suspension improvements would be complete.
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
I have always thought that the OEM placement of the rear shocks was very inefficient on these trucks.
Your modifications look good, but personally I would have taken a couple more steps.

Firstly, I would recommend that you add some stone guards directly in front of the shock absorber rods.
This is a very simple thing to do, and it would go a long way to preventing potential damage.

Secondly, I would add some ribbing to the bottoms of the lower shock mounts.
If the shocks are working hard on a corrugated road, the lever you have created will experience quite a bit of stress. Again, a simple modification that would increase reliability.

My 2c worth...
 

Ferjablito

Active member
Siempre he pensado que la colocación OEM de los amortiguadores traseros era muy ineficiente en estos camiones.
Tus modificaciones se ven bien, pero personalmente habría dado un par de pasos más.

En primer lugar, recomendaría que agregues algunos protectores de piedras directamente en frente de las barras de los amortiguadores.
Esto es algo muy sencillo de hacer y contribuiría en gran medida a prevenir posibles daños.

En segundo lugar, añadiría algunas nervaduras en la parte inferior de los soportes de los amortiguadores inferiores.
Si los amortiguadores se someten a un esfuerzo intenso en una carretera ondulada, la palanca que ha creado experimentará bastante tensión. De nuevo, una modificación sencilla que aumentaría la fiabilidad.

Mis dos centavos de valor...
Do you know of any colleagues who have reduced the offset from +90 to +50 with 4 cm spacers per wheel? The best idea would be to make new rims with that offset, but they would no longer be suitable for swapping and you wouldn't be able to rotate them.
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
Super single rims have the same track at the front and rear. The rims are flipped front and back to achieve this.
At the front the hub mounts to the deep side of the rim and at the rear the hub mounts to the shallow side of the rim.
When rotating the wheels, you swap them diagonally in order to maintain the same direction of rotation. Front left to rear right and front right to rear left. :giggle:
 

Ferjablito

Active member
Sorry, I use a translator and I must not have explained myself well. Regarding the rims, I know how they work. My question was more about whether you knew or have knowledge of any colleague who has installed 4cm rim spacers to gain more track width, manufactured by a lathe operator and with new, longer studs like the ones in the link.
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
To answer your question... No I don't.
What I will say is that if you plan on going down this path, be very sure that wheel spacers are legal in your country, because they are not in some.
The other issue with spacers is that they greatly increase the load on the wheel bearings, potentially leading to premature failure.
Would you be using these with single rear wheels, or would you be keeping the dual wheels?
 

Ferjablito

Active member
To answer your question... No I don't.
What I will say is that if you plan on going down this path, be very sure that wheel spacers are legal in your country, because they are not in some.
The other issue with spacers is that they greatly increase the load on the wheel bearings, potentially leading to premature failure.
Would you be using these with single rear wheels, or would you be keeping the dual wheels?
If the spacers can be legalized, I'm almost certainly going to opt for a hub-centric design, using 10.9/12.9 bolts or studs and 6061-T6 billet aluminum spacers.
The suspension system needs to be reinforced, and this is where the problems arise: there are few or no Heavy-Duty or extreme-use parts, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc.
What I've seen on AliExpress isn't reliable.
I'm going to keep the R17 rims, which means the ladder for climbing onto the truck will have to be modified.
 

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