So it seems like a lifetime ago since I updated this, but I just came to the realization that it's only been 4 days. Clay once again changed his plans, this time to meet us in San Carlos on Thursday rather then Wednesday, which was ok since I could then go Diving Thursday morning (Forrest went snorkeling). I took the GoPro with me on the dives, but turns out it looses all ability to focus underwater, so the video's really aren't worth the trouble of uploading. Clay never showed (big surprise at this point right?) saying instead that he would meet us in Mazatlan yesterday...you can guess how that went. In any case, we had a rather late start leaving San Carlos Friday morning as we really weren't in a big hurry and thought we had all day to get to Los Mochis. We had breakfast and last internet check at the marina before finally hitting the road around 1030am. The ride was good, but it took much longer then we had planned, and the tolls were beginning to suck us dry. We stopped for a late lunch of bean and cheese burritos we made on the spot from stuff we had picked up in San Carlos; it was delicious!
From there we continued south to Los Mochis where we stayed the night.
Riders eye view with the GoPro
Some scenery
We ended up taking much longer then planned to get there, so we pulled into town at dusk, and not wanting to ride around in the dark we took the first hotel we could find, which claimed to have internet and good security. Turns out, the security part was right, but the internet only worked if we sat on the ground outside the main office, and only for about 5min at a time; as consolation they gave us the jacuzzi sweet. Given as sore as we were, we put the jacuzzi to good use (they were a little concerned that we were not concerned about only having one bed...I'm sure the remains of a bubble bath in the jacuzzi didn't help their perception any in the morning!) After a decidedly heterosexual night, we left Los Mochis at the lazy hour of 9am and picked up breakfast at a taco stand at the first money suck (toll) of the day.
Un carne y un puerco!
Drinks came from the vender next door
While getting our Coke, some crazy guy came by and started ranting about how he could give us a meal for only 2 pesos; or maybe it was 2 dolores? He couldn't remember...
The cook
and her kitchen and helpers
My thoughts on her cooking skills...
We had been warned that south of San Carlos the Federales didn't patrol and it was Cartel controlled, but as yet we hadn't seen any sign of this with every toll having a half dozen heavily armed Federales with multiple patrols in between. This all changed quite rapidly. We had gotten rather used to seeing military and police trucks with high canvas covers for troops, so when we saw a grey truck similarly equipped, we didn't think much of; only when they passed (and smiled and waived I might add) we realized they were by no means military or police of any government. Knowing the heavy police presence at tolls, and that there was one coming up, we began to fall back a bit so as not to be involved in the potential shoot out at the toll 1km ahead...only when we got there, there was no sign of Federales, Marines, or Army, and they gunmen payed their toll and drove on...we were out of the Federal Zone! Due to no fault of the militia, that was our last toll. We decided we had had enough of paying the same as a large truck, so we got off and took the scenic road instead. At one point we decided we wanted to take an even more back road, which lead to lots of aimless wandering around back roads, lots of confused locals, and then a few amused locals when we ended up coming back the same way realizing that we weren't going to get anywhere that way. The ride was absolutely beautiful, and as expected the small towns were much more interesting then on the main toll road. Shortly before Mazatlan we encountered a heavily defended military checkpoint, then an almost as heavily armed Police checkpoint right on the edge of town. I apologize for not having any pictures to show of this ride, but we were trying to make time so I didn't have time to pull out the camera (I think I made up for that today...) We pulled into old town and found a caffe with internet so we could do some research on where to stay the night. Initially we were thinking the famous Hotel Belmar with advertised prices of $300 pesos ($25USD?) for a beach front suite, but in reality they are $450 pesos, so we are now sitting in the Hotel Lerma just a few blocks away (highly recommended for anyone looking for a cheap, $150 pesos, place with good secure parking and nice room!)
Today we wandered around, studied maps, did time to distance calculations, explored, and took lots of pictures. Not too much to tell, so I will just get to the important stuff with a few captions where necessary.
The start of old town
Apparently the artest had had enough, she looks rather disheveled and obviously not in the mood to continue working
Clark