My M100 build

mrwizard

Adventurer
very nice work! i'm fairly new to the forum, but i really like what you've done with that 100. very clean, on a budget, and, most importantly, very functional. keep us posted on more mods.

russell
 

JJonesee

Observer
I have used the trailer on several trips now. I mentioned the springs were soft, and options I had. I looked into replacement springs but the cost was a bit more than I wanted to spend.

So I picked up a rough country add-a-leaf kit from JC-Witney on sale - for $60 with free shipping.(RC 811026)

Now before the die-hards start with the complaints – here is my reasoning.
- I want it Spring under - as my tow rigs are already set to this height.
- The old springs are worn and super soft
- They are military wrapped, so if the main leaf fails there is a contingency.
- Keep with the "on a budget" theme.
- Ease of installation. I wont have to fight the military bushings, or even remove the springs completely.
- Save for links.. (I use this reasoning on my rock crawler all the time)
- Factory YJ rear shocks are exactly 1.5" longer than the original shocks and I have about 5 sets laying around.
- To run lift springs you must swap the c- shackle. (This just adds cost)

Pics:
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I took out the leaf that matched the length of the new one, and the factory load leaf (short one in photo)
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Brake line is not as tight as it looks, and should be fine through the movement.
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Before:
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After:
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They are just a little stiffer, and loaded down the shackles don’t flatten out, but there is still flex left in the spring. It added about 1.5" of height to the trailer, which is fine. I am happy with it. The AAL is just a bit wider than the factory springs this causes an issue with the U-Bolts. I contemplated notching the spring plate, bending the ubolts, and I ended up just grinding notches in the AAL to allow the U-Bolts to sit flush with the springs. The Shock lower mount is a smaller diameter bushing also. The original shock stud was heavily corroded, so I just sanded it down to fit the YJ shock bushing. (5/8" to 1/2")

This brings up the topic of the spare now. I drilled a 1/2" hole in the second form the rear cross member and hung the spare with a big u-bolt to check for clearance. It fits, but still hangs low. I think on the trail this will be an issue. Whatever hanger is fabricated will need to be designed so it distributes the load under the trailer since the tire will now act as a skid plate. I will just leave it on the tong for now.

I have some material to build fenders similar to M-416 fenders, when I get back into working on this, I will fabricate the tire carrier and skid plate.
 

JJonesee

Observer
I broke down and ordered a Lock-n-Roll.. Cudos to Martyn at AT, ordered and had it in a few days.

It was shorter than the standard coupler I built, so I butt welded another section of 2" x 1/4" wall tubing, then sleeved with 2.5" x 1/4" wall tubing. Pulled it on a 1700 mile round trip to Palo Duro Canyon, and it pulls great. Even got to use it on some close quarter 3 point turns and I can say it flexes without binding. Jeep Jambo would not let me pull it into the canyon...

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JJonesee

Observer
I have not updated this in a while...

8/17/11

18 stops for gas, 2400+ miles, 12 mpg, lots of time above 12,000 feet.. Radiator cap failed south of Lubbock on the way up.. and my jeep has a bastard radiator.

Ophir Pass... 11,789'
081710%20%2816%29.jpg


Imogene.. 13,114'
081710%20%2882%29.jpg


Corkscrew ... 12,592'
081710%20%28115%29.jpg


California.. 12,930'
081710%20%28133%29.jpg


Engineer..12,800'
081710%20%28176%29.jpg


Cinnamon..12,640'
081710%20%28204%29.jpg


Stony Pass..12,650'
081710%20%28219%29.jpg
 
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JJonesee

Observer
6/10/11

After sitting with snow on it for 6 months, I pulled the cover on the tent to find this. I dont know if the weight of the snow did this, or the thermal shock.

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Remove Plastic
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Replace with Sheet AL
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JJonesee

Observer
So since the trailer was in the garage, I started swapping the axle and fenders.

Before:
072511%252520001.jpg


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Problems:
- I have to carry a full trailer spare since the lug pattern is 5 on 5.5", and the LJ is 5 on 4.5". This was mounted on the tong, then moved under the bed to redistribute weight.
- Fenders are worthless for anything really. they dont cover the tires, you cant put weight on them, and they weight a ton.
- Front rack is way overkill. I built it out of 1/4" thick components, since its all I had at the time.
- No electric brakes. A few times in CO we really wished we had e-brakes on the trailer. The LJ is barely adequate alone, much less with 1000#'s behind it.
- Track width was 10" narrower than the LJ. This made for interesting tracking on some of the tight rutted trails.
 
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JJonesee

Observer
Tear it apart:
072511%252520006.jpg


Axle:
Note to self, when you order a 3500# axle with E-brakes, the hubs will not fit in the stock LJ wheels. You will need 2" wheel spacers, then need to narrow the axle you just had built..
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JJonesee

Observer
Finished product: (sorry for the shadowed photos)

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Pulls/tracks/stops great. Got the E-brake controller on the LJ. The new fenders are almost as light as the originals, and you can use them as a step/shelf/seat.. The new front rack ties the can holders into the fender skirts, and is half the weight.
 
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VanIsle_Greg

I think I need a bigger truck!
Looks awesome!

Really like the colour, mine will be the same in a few weeks. I also like the fenders/shelves...looking to do something similar. Nice build.
G
 

merlin44

New member
Jonesy,

Didn't even know you moved! Thought you were still in building two at CTI.
Just about gave up on building my 45 MB and bought a TJ last month. Now have two trailers in the garage. Decisions, decisions. One complete MB-T and one M100 parts trailer, no tub. Lots of options there.
Good luck to you up there. Trailer still looks great.

Billy
 

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