My nuts sheared off

I find it odd that the lugs were tightening rather than loosening. ...

I've also thought that right hand thread on right side and left hand thread on left side would loosen. But I have no real way of checking and figure the designers knew what they were doing.

Examination of my failed lug/stud suggested the first one was loose enough for the wheel to move and flex the lug/stud until it broke. Different to it getting tighter, stretching and breaking. Previous stretch during fitting can create a place for crack initiation. Just a bit of work hardening can be sufficient.
 
I've also thought that right hand thread on right side and left hand thread on left side would loosen. But I have no real way of checking and figure the designers knew what they were doing.
Same here, I'm an electrical engineer so I just have to give my mechanical engineering brethren the benefit of the doubt on this one. From what I've observed first hand, they had it figured out and it is a good safety feature for the left hand side to avoid losing a wheel.

It's really interesting to put the lug nut indicators on and watch what happens over time.
 
...
It's really interesting to put the lug nut indicators on and watch what happens over time.

I put wheel nut indicators on after breaking three studs on one wheel. They haven't moved in more than 25,000 km. I hope yours aren't moving routinely. If they are it may suggest something more fundamental.
 
I put wheel nut indicators on after breaking three studs on one wheel. They haven't moved in more than 25,000 km. I hope yours aren't moving routinely. If they are it may suggest something more fundamental.

Any idea what caused your three studs to break?
 
Any idea what caused your three studs to break?

can't remember which forum I posted on .... ! !

About 5,000km after new springs (change to parabolic) and four new tyres. Some very rough Moroccan roads. One wheel nut loosened, evidence of wheel nut working against chamfer of hole in wheel, lug/stud had fatigue crack followed by brittle failure. Some "brown stain" from around hole probably fine iron oxide from movement. Two other lug/studs failed with shorter fatigue cracks some time later (possibly days as some corrosion on fracture surface of first failure). No evidence of movement of nuts against wheel.

Replaced all five lug/studs and fitted wheel nut indicators. No movement since.

I concluded the first nut was under tightened when tyres fitted.

For an item that critical I thought it worth thinking about and looking closely. Complicating factor was failure of all four new shock absorbers after about 2,000km. I was concerned that spring change was having side effects. But came to the conclusion that wasn't the case.

Indication something wrong was slight fore/aft motion when driving uphill. As always, I could have picked it up earlier.
 
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Yeah, I'm wondering if my best bet isn't to cut the stud/nut off as close to the rim as possible and then try and drill it out.
Your best bet is what has already been suggested. Make a plate to protect your wheel and cut the nut stud combination down the center (like you were cutting the first slice in a pizza).
You will not even need to cut all the way through the nut/stud. Once you get the nut cut about 2/3 or so with the abrasive cutting wheel, you can then split the nut off the stud with a cold chisel.
 
I've actually considered adding a angle grinder / cutoff wheel to my travel toolbox. There are times when they just save you so much effort.
 
I've actually considered adding a angle grinder / cutoff wheel to my travel toolbox. There are times when they just save you so much effort.

I carry one with several cut off and grinding wheels, I started to carry it when someone pretended to lock a gate to exit a beach camp site we were on, it wasn't locked but looked like it so had me thinking about the situation and that prompted me to carry one all the time......haven't needed to use it yet.
 
I've actually considered adding a angle grinder / cutoff wheel to my travel toolbox. There are times when they just save you so much effort.

Milwaukee 18volt cordless are great as long as you use the ultra thin discs. Take the discs off to store in your toolbox though. The discs would break too easily if you threw it in your toolbox, I think.

photo.jpg
 
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Milwaukee 18volt cordless are great as long as you use the ultra thin discs. Take the discs off to store in your toolbox though. The discs would break too easily if you threw it in your toolbox, I think.

View attachment 194649

That is nice - I have a cheap corded one that I seem to use a lot, along with my stationary grinder with a big wire wheel on it.

I just bought one of the Dewalt 20V MAX (Li-Ion) tools so I think I'm going to be transitioning into that range. I still haven't got used to how light it is over my old nicad tools.
 
I carry one with several cut off and grinding wheels, I started to carry it when someone pretended to lock a gate to exit a beach camp site we were on, it wasn't locked but looked like it so had me thinking about the situation and that prompted me to carry one all the time......haven't needed to use it yet.

I used to carry a set of bolt cutters for that purpose. Their were a couple of times I came at a fence and was locked IN instead of out because of the trails I had taken to get to that point. Most of the time it required disassembly/reassembly of the gate hardware.
 
Okay, the sixth nut has been split and removed using cutoff wheel and cold chisels

Here's what the cross section looks like, any thoughts on what was going on here? Chisel marks from the removal process are marked so as not to confuse the issue.

lug nut split and removed.jpg
 

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