Hodakaguy
Adventurer
Thanks, Lot's of info on the swap on my build thread here
: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=802924Hodakaguy
My VW Syncro Westy Build - Adventure is out there.
- Thread starter Hodakaguy
- Start date
Thanks, Lot's of info on the swap on my build thread here
: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=802924Hodakaguy
onemanarmy
Explorer
well that is just awesome.
Thanks for sharing over here.
Thanks for sharing over here.
guidolyons
Addicted to Gear Oil
Thanks for the links. :sombrero: Great, now another forum to read...:snorkel:
Mwilliamshs
Explorer
Yeah like I said I've followed your thread on ADVrider for a looong time. I read through there before asking here. Thought maybe more info on those panels was available. Have you been satisfied with the BlueSky 3000i?
[330/14.8=22.297 amps](14.8 is my intended charge voltage, maybe not yours) If you're seeing 22 amps output @ the battery terminals in real life that is IDEAL! Very impressed. What does the BlueSky 3000i show on its screen when you see that at the batteries? Betting they're close since you ran that 6 awg cable. I like that you stepped up one size above minimum spec for your panel-to-controller cables too, not surprising given the excellent build quality everywhere else in your project. Does your aluminum bracketry get very hot? I'm seeing that as a good thing if it does as it could be a heat-sink for the panels...interesting way to boost efficiency. I plan to run a bank about 3x the AH of yours (225-250ish) and about the same wattage of panels(maybe 4 instead of 3 if I have the rooftop real-estate), probably not MPPT though. Considering the output, I can see why you think your system is overkill! KUDOS on a nice solar setup!
Your solar system seems especially well thought-out but is there anything you'd do differently, given the chance?
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
Hodakaguy
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Mwilliamshs
Explorer
17.7 MPPV x 5.70 MPPC = 100.89 Watts per panel. That's only 2.9v higher than my intended absorb charge voltage and assuming the MPPT was 100% efficient at adding that extra voltage as amperage it'd only be worth [100.89/14.8=6.8a] an additional 1.1 amps per panel at best under STC. I just don't see that as worth roughly double the price of a controller. I may be wrong and it may be a life-altering difference in real-world daily usage. I know MPPT is "better" but think that using it with 12v nominal panels to charge 12v nominal batteries is not yet cost effective for arrays that will actually fit on a van roof. I'm charging batteries for free with the sun but all the equipment is being bought with $ that could buy fuel, food, camping fees, or just be saved up and let me hit the PanAm that much sooner. YMMV
One advantage of MPPT systems is the higher voltage panels it can use can be as efficient with smaller cables that are cheaper and easier to run but using 12v nominal panels negates this feature, which in a small system with short runs, would be of little monetary benefit anyway.
The Solar Boost 3000I can utilize 60 cell panels, which are cheaper than 36ers (per watt anyway), and use smaller cables to connect to them, and handle up to 22 amps of their input. That's a significant difference (22 possible max vs 17.1 your array's possible max [5.7x3]) and would be a substantial benefit but it's not being utilized in your system and I haven't found panels to exploit it in mine yet either. With the 60 cell panels the 3000i is limited to 290w max...That's like 1 panel. ******? On the other hand, that's only 1 more 36 cell panel's worth of amperage (5a) and could be achieved with PWM and 4 12v panels. 4 panels x 5.7a = 22.8a, in fact, and that's still within the ratings of the Tristar 45, a cheap PWM controller.
I believe you when you say you soak charge at 14.8v BUT the spec sheet for the SB 3000i states 14.4/13.2/15.2 (absorb/float/equalize) so it must have user-adjustable algorithms, right? Have you checked that's it actually putting out 14.8? Just curious.
At present costs a PWM controller (Tristar 45 ~$135-150) is about half the cost of an equivalent quality MPPT controller (SB 3000i ~$250-300) from what I've seen and that difference is about the same as the cost of 1 panel so I could have 4 panels and PWM or 3 and MPPT...assuming there's room for 4 it's an easy call.
I am interested in finding higher voltage panels in the appropriate dimensions which would theoretically double the MPPT potential for bettering PWM charge efficiency but it just hasn't happened. If things come together as planned the 12v panels will likely be the best fit. 36cell panels are less power-dense than 60s but are more space-efficient for a van roof it seems. Even a single panel of 60 cells at around 5" each would be tough to fit on a van with a roof vent and rack or antenna, etc, as most I've seen are about 65"x40" or so. (Too wide to mount in any but lengthwise orientation) The higher cell-count panels seem heavier too, a legitimate concern for pop-top vans. As a broke college kid I have time to shop lol
One advantage of MPPT systems is the higher voltage panels it can use can be as efficient with smaller cables that are cheaper and easier to run but using 12v nominal panels negates this feature, which in a small system with short runs, would be of little monetary benefit anyway.
The Solar Boost 3000I can utilize 60 cell panels, which are cheaper than 36ers (per watt anyway), and use smaller cables to connect to them, and handle up to 22 amps of their input. That's a significant difference (22 possible max vs 17.1 your array's possible max [5.7x3]) and would be a substantial benefit but it's not being utilized in your system and I haven't found panels to exploit it in mine yet either. With the 60 cell panels the 3000i is limited to 290w max...That's like 1 panel. ******? On the other hand, that's only 1 more 36 cell panel's worth of amperage (5a) and could be achieved with PWM and 4 12v panels. 4 panels x 5.7a = 22.8a, in fact, and that's still within the ratings of the Tristar 45, a cheap PWM controller.
I believe you when you say you soak charge at 14.8v BUT the spec sheet for the SB 3000i states 14.4/13.2/15.2 (absorb/float/equalize) so it must have user-adjustable algorithms, right? Have you checked that's it actually putting out 14.8? Just curious.
At present costs a PWM controller (Tristar 45 ~$135-150) is about half the cost of an equivalent quality MPPT controller (SB 3000i ~$250-300) from what I've seen and that difference is about the same as the cost of 1 panel so I could have 4 panels and PWM or 3 and MPPT...assuming there's room for 4 it's an easy call.
I am interested in finding higher voltage panels in the appropriate dimensions which would theoretically double the MPPT potential for bettering PWM charge efficiency but it just hasn't happened. If things come together as planned the 12v panels will likely be the best fit. 36cell panels are less power-dense than 60s but are more space-efficient for a van roof it seems. Even a single panel of 60 cells at around 5" each would be tough to fit on a van with a roof vent and rack or antenna, etc, as most I've seen are about 65"x40" or so. (Too wide to mount in any but lengthwise orientation) The higher cell-count panels seem heavier too, a legitimate concern for pop-top vans. As a broke college kid I have time to shop lol
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barefoot boy
Observer
I just finished reading your entire build thread on advrider. I just want to say what an excellent build with awesome attention to detail! It's great to see you and your family enjoying quality time together. You have enviable talent!
justcuz
Explorer
I too read the entire thread, much to the chagrin of my wife, since I just returned from a Death Valley trip and have my stuff spread out all over the patio cleaning it up. I had a 67 split window with an 1835 in it years ago.
The steering was janky and the reduction gearboxes were noisy, replaced the bearings twice before selling it. It was roomy and fun otherwise. Had I had a better place to work on it I may have kept it, although I prefer the bays to the splits.
The steering was janky and the reduction gearboxes were noisy, replaced the bearings twice before selling it. It was roomy and fun otherwise. Had I had a better place to work on it I may have kept it, although I prefer the bays to the splits.
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
Thanks guys, a little late to the build thread on this site as I just recently joined. I'll keep the future updates posted here as well.
To kick it off all the previous mods and my build so far can be seen on my original build thread here: CLICK HERE.
Time to get back to working on the Syncro! I have several more projects that I want to add still....Safari roof rack with extra lighting, back up flood lights, Snorkle Intake system with Donalson Filter assy, and Rock Sliders. First up.....Rock Sliders.
I like the looks of the Das Mule rock sliders but decided to fabricate my own. I will be replicating the Das Mule setup and adding my own twists to their design. Not only will the rock sliders offer protection for the lower rocker panels but they will provide a strong secure jacking point which will be nice with the lifted height of the Bus.
Here's a picture off the net of the Das Mule Sliders...Nice!
First up...purchase the materials. Made a trip to the local steel supply this morning and picked up some 2x2 square tubing 3/16" thick, some 1.25" seamless 1/4" thick tubing, and some 2" x 3/16" flat bar. This setup will be nice and stout!
Next I cut the two pieces of tubing to the right length and then laid out the ends for cutting.
Ends Cut
Cutting the end caps, still in rough form here.
End Cap welded in place.
More to come....
Hodakaguy
To kick it off all the previous mods and my build so far can be seen on my original build thread here: CLICK HERE.
Time to get back to working on the Syncro! I have several more projects that I want to add still....Safari roof rack with extra lighting, back up flood lights, Snorkle Intake system with Donalson Filter assy, and Rock Sliders. First up.....Rock Sliders.
I like the looks of the Das Mule rock sliders but decided to fabricate my own. I will be replicating the Das Mule setup and adding my own twists to their design. Not only will the rock sliders offer protection for the lower rocker panels but they will provide a strong secure jacking point which will be nice with the lifted height of the Bus.
Here's a picture off the net of the Das Mule Sliders...Nice!
First up...purchase the materials. Made a trip to the local steel supply this morning and picked up some 2x2 square tubing 3/16" thick, some 1.25" seamless 1/4" thick tubing, and some 2" x 3/16" flat bar. This setup will be nice and stout!
Next I cut the two pieces of tubing to the right length and then laid out the ends for cutting.
Ends Cut
Cutting the end caps, still in rough form here.
End Cap welded in place.
More to come....
Hodakaguy
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
Managed to get a little work done on the mounting parts today.
First up I removed the factory mud flap and positioned the slider to check for needed clearances. Pretty dirty under the mud flap, I'll hit it with some buffing compound later.
Starting to cut the mounting parts. I looked at several ways to mount the sliders and decided to use a combination of the Das Mule setup and my own, I'll fabricate the lower brace pieces after the initial pieces are welded in place.
Drilling the holes in the brackets.
Heavy wall seamless tubing will slide into the jack mounts and ultimately support the sliders. Here they are cut to length and correct angles applied to one end which will allow the sliders to sit level once mounted.
Here I'm inserting a threaded nut that will clamp the tubing into the jack point. I've drilled holes on each side of the nut to add Rossette welds for extra strength at this connection.
And welded in place.
More to come...
Hodakaguy
First up I removed the factory mud flap and positioned the slider to check for needed clearances. Pretty dirty under the mud flap, I'll hit it with some buffing compound later.
Starting to cut the mounting parts. I looked at several ways to mount the sliders and decided to use a combination of the Das Mule setup and my own, I'll fabricate the lower brace pieces after the initial pieces are welded in place.
Drilling the holes in the brackets.
Heavy wall seamless tubing will slide into the jack mounts and ultimately support the sliders. Here they are cut to length and correct angles applied to one end which will allow the sliders to sit level once mounted.
Here I'm inserting a threaded nut that will clamp the tubing into the jack point. I've drilled holes on each side of the nut to add Rossette welds for extra strength at this connection.
And welded in place.
More to come...
Hodakaguy
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
More progress on the sliders today, first up welding.
Welded up the mounts that slide into the jack points. Looking at these pictures makes me want to sand down the bottom edge of the rocker panels where rocks have chipped the paint and re-finish it....great another thing to do lol.
Welding on the bottom support for the rear mount, this mount hangs lower than the front mount to make the slider sit level.
The rear mount will be held in place by two bolts, one vertical and one horizontal in the end of the tubing.
I thought the front mount would look more finished off by capping the top so you don't see the mounting assy.
Ready for a test fit, I'll add a top cap to the rear mount soon.
Next up....Lighting. A friend mentioned the idea of adding in some LED lighting to the sliders, I liked the idea and after sourcing some small 5W LED bolt flood lights I'm ready to install them. I tested the lights upon arrival...nice and bright!
Each slider will have 4 lights recessed into the sides, the front and back lights will be angled forward/backwards and down to light up each wheel area and the middle two will be angled slightly downward and straight out to flood the sides. Each slider will be on it's own switch and can be used to see while parking etc or used as lighting for camping/working around the van.
Started by drilling the front hole in the slider and cutting a piece of tubing to size.
Getting ready to weld in the nut so the bolt light can be screwed into the slider. They will be easily changeable if needed and recessed enough to stay out of harms way.
Nut welded in and light installed.
Tubing welded in place and bolt light being installed.
And installed. These should work nicely. Sorry for the crappy pics, took these with the cell phone this morning. Still have a little more blending to do to get rid of the seam in the tubing. Now on to the next ones.
More to come.
Hodakaguy
Welded up the mounts that slide into the jack points. Looking at these pictures makes me want to sand down the bottom edge of the rocker panels where rocks have chipped the paint and re-finish it....great another thing to do lol.
Welding on the bottom support for the rear mount, this mount hangs lower than the front mount to make the slider sit level.
The rear mount will be held in place by two bolts, one vertical and one horizontal in the end of the tubing.
I thought the front mount would look more finished off by capping the top so you don't see the mounting assy.
Ready for a test fit, I'll add a top cap to the rear mount soon.
Next up....Lighting. A friend mentioned the idea of adding in some LED lighting to the sliders, I liked the idea and after sourcing some small 5W LED bolt flood lights I'm ready to install them. I tested the lights upon arrival...nice and bright!
Each slider will have 4 lights recessed into the sides, the front and back lights will be angled forward/backwards and down to light up each wheel area and the middle two will be angled slightly downward and straight out to flood the sides. Each slider will be on it's own switch and can be used to see while parking etc or used as lighting for camping/working around the van.
Started by drilling the front hole in the slider and cutting a piece of tubing to size.
Getting ready to weld in the nut so the bolt light can be screwed into the slider. They will be easily changeable if needed and recessed enough to stay out of harms way.
Nut welded in and light installed.
Tubing welded in place and bolt light being installed.
And installed. These should work nicely
. Sorry for the crappy pics, took these with the cell phone this morning. Still have a little more blending to do to get rid of the seam in the tubing. Now on to the next ones.
More to come.
Hodakaguy
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
Managed to get a little more work done on the sliders today and installed the rest of the lights. These should work out nicely around camp . I'll add a piece of tubing on the back side of the slider to route the wiring through so it will be protected.
Here's a few shots of the other three lights being installed.
Holes Drilled and tubing cut to length.
Getting ready to weld.
Welded in place
Welds ground down/blended and the slider mounted back up to see how they look
So far I'm liking how they are turning out...more to come.
Hodakaguy
. I'll add a piece of tubing on the back side of the slider to route the wiring through so it will be protected. Here's a few shots of the other three lights being installed.
Holes Drilled and tubing cut to length.
Getting ready to weld.
Welded in place
Welds ground down/blended and the slider mounted back up to see how they look
So far I'm liking how they are turning out...more to come.
Hodakaguy
barefoot boy
Observer
Very nice looking. How are you making those nice bends like for the end caps on the sliders?