Need help on picking a 3/4 ton

zooroadbaja

Adventurer
So I’ve been looking at the 6.2s thinking of trading in the Silverado. Pros and cons of the alumiduty? Worth the jump from the 2016 to the 2017? Also was reading that some people have had a death wobble like problem. Anyone experience that on here?
 

2025 deleted member

Well-known member
2017 here with a 1.5" front lift and fox shocks, no death wobble, 41k miles on it. 2017 gets a much improved frame and benefits of aluminum chassis.
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
So I’ve been looking at the 6.2s thinking of trading in the Silverado. Pros and cons of the alumiduty? Worth the jump from the 2016 to the 2017? Also was reading that some people have had a death wobble like problem. Anyone experience that on here?

Death wobble is simple as heck to fix. It just illustrates a dealerships usual reluctance to pay good techs. Trac bar, more caster, shocks, joints, pitman arm. Then again, people often mistake weak American shocks for death wobble. And some owners are just paranoid about everything.

Same goes for Dodge death wobble or even GM's weird wobble problem. Anyone that can't figure it out, ain't worth taking advice from. It's the simplest problem to fix in the entire automotive world. Sad thing is too many alighnment shops just adjust things until the screen reads green everywhere. They have no idea how the alignment settings actually work, or why the oem settings might be worthless.

2017+
+light body, heavy frame, feels more sure footed, more solid and secure
+improved interior quality
+xl's are usually power everything, not base models anymore
+rear locker works
+best front axle in the truck world by a far margin
+2015 era trucks feel archaic
+least rattles of any truck I've ever driven
+crew cab comfort
+easy breezy suspension kits from BDS and Carli, as long as you remember to disco the battery.
+locker friendly front axle. Your Gm axle would snap like a twig at things a locked Super 60 would laugh at
+good transmission
+xl and xlt's are great, try to avoid getting carried away by bling packages. $10 000 for satin chrome plastic badges is not a good buy.
+35x12.5r18 tires fit, with room to spare
+37x13.5r18 tires fit perfectly with just a mild 4" suspension system
+4" BDS, 37r18's, 4.88 gears, a front auto locker, and King shocks is a very easy, reasonable priced, very hot setup. A Powerwagon has nothing on that.
+Fox ats steering damper is available
+free spin hubs come stock
+old style turn signal stalk is back by customer demand

-37" tires are expensive
-gas gauge reads low fuel level a bit early. 10g reserve.
-you have to watch your karma at grocery stores. Put your frickin cart back. Body doesn't dent easy, but dents are expensive.
-heavy steel off road bumpers ain't so expensive when you start seeing what quarter panel replacement costs.
-bed is only tough if you Rhino line it, or Line X it. DO NOT allow them to remove the bed bolts, line right over top of them.

-oem shocks are as bad as GM shocks now. So bad, that exactly zero Ford garages in the entire US stock the oem shocks. They are literally just empty steel tubes. Get some King 2.5's asap. Don't need fancy adjusters or anything, just proper valving

-skip the yuppie automated car wash
-skip some of the posh options like the adaptive steering
-sun roof option is for suckers
-the hitch sleeves are for towing jet skis and lawnmower trailers. DO NOT tow heavy with a hitch sleeve, get a larger hitch and do it right
-kick the hub covers and unlock the hubs. Dealer prep idiots tend to miss this. Make sure that the hitch sleeves and pin are installed
-tear the key # page out of the owners manual so that no one makes a key to steal your truck
-are fender liners still an option (I still don't have any)

-do not in any way secure the trucks tailgate with a lock to prevent theft. I won't go into detail here. Let them have it.

-steering is firm when new
-oem tires ain't exactly Cooper stt's or anything
- high end trim package seats aren't as comfortable as xl or xlt, if you're heavy.
-it's one big step to get in. If live in snowy areas, get good aftermarket steps, or Raptor steps.
-Led headlights are crap. Stick to the adjustable halogens.
-some models come with 20" wheels, they are as useless as the 17" wheels. 18x9"+18mm, is the hot spot
 
Last edited:

Chorky

Observer
**Edited for length**

2017+
+light body, heavy frame, feels more sure footed, more solid and secure

Nice write-up. Sounds like they made some good changes for '17. This makes me question more specifics of the frame though. So a recent article I read said that some manufacturers are considering going back to an open C from issues with a 'rigid' frame for trucks and stress cracks. That being said, my dad's '18 Ram 3500 weighs more than my '97 F350. Both crew cab, both have canopies, both are diesel. He weighs nearly 2k#'s more than I do, empty of any gear. I find it hard to believe that there is that many electronics in there, considering the body is aluminum. So even though he has a slightly higher payload capacity, but not by much, he has a higher overall weight. Doesn't seem to be a lot of benefit weight wise anyway.

Maybe a discussion point for the OP is the electronics systems used on the 6.2 vs a diesel, newer vs. older. For example, though I don't know exactly how many and where the electronics are for my dad's truck, my 7.3 has several moduls inside the cab, and the IDM and PCM are by the firewall of the drivers side, but quite low in the engine compartment, limiting water fording depths to probably 40" max. What about the 6.2's and newer diesels?
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
The chassis cab Fords are boxed in front, and c channel in the rear. To get the appropriate flex.

Not really a problem for us. If we screw up a consumer Ford frame, then we kinda deserve it. You'll see what I mean as soon as you roll under one. If you have a big heavy expo box, it's best to start with the chassis cab truck IMO. Reduce the rear springs as needed.

But sometimes flatbed manufacturers screw up and bolt the bed down wrong to the c channels. Then the frame is completely rigid except for the 1" gap between the cab and bed. When 100% of your chassis flex is in that 1" slice of chassis, it fatigues and fails. That's why google is loaded with pics of flat bed trucks split in half on a service lift.

I think my ecm is up high in the firewall. Might just be plugs. I haven't had to do anything yet.
 
Last edited:

Klutch7

Member
*Edited for length...

2017+
+light body, heavy frame, feels more sure footed, more solid and secure
+improved interior quality
+xl's are usually power everything, not base models anymore

On the '17, you can still get a manual transfer case shift lever in XL and some XLT trims... I think this went away on the 2018 and 2019 trucks (could be wrong, but haven't seen it to this day).

I've looked at a number of the 2011-2016 trucks with the 6.2L and every time I go back to the 2017+ model for a number of the reasons Buliwyf mentioned. Obviously, the only real downside is initial cost versus the older trucks, but it's what I'm aiming to make happen this year.
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
Yep, the 17 xl's could still be had with manual xfer case. Hubs will be manual only as well. 19's are ESOF only now, I think.

The top rear rounded cab corners are a bit thin where the Al is stretched tight. The bottom corners have a fiberglass piece added. If it has roof marker lights, replace their seals if there's any water getting in the cab.
 

2025 deleted member

Well-known member
Yep, the 17 xl's could still be had with manual xfer case. Hubs will be manual only as well. 19's are ESOF only now, I think.

The top rear rounded cab corners are a bit thin where the Al is stretched tight. The bottom corners have a fiberglass piece added. If it has roof marker lights, replace their seals if there's any water getting in the cab.
Out of curiousity I went on the Ford site and built a plainjane F-350, sure enough you can't get the manual transfer case lever anymore. I was planning on going to back to the manual in about 2 years when I replace my current truck, I ain't keeping it past warranty.

EDIT: I missed it the first time, didn't click on it since I didn't recognize it, its called a MSOS- manual shift on stop, you can still get it.
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
The ESOF is growing on me. Mostly because I can select 4wd and the locker in one flick of the wrist. I have both in the driveway. I still like the reliability and directness of the manual shifter.

I make a point to use 4wd a few times a week to keep it free'd up.
 

tacollie

Glamper
You guys are jerks ?. This thread had me looking at F250s. It's crazy what $20k will get you. There's a pretty good chance I will replace the taco work one this spring. Are there any reasons to avoid 2011 since they are the first model year? My 05' Tacoma was crap.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Zero reasons to avoid a 2011 that I'm aware of.

They are real trucks.

The 2017+ trucks are pretty incredible, but considering just how cheaply you can step into a clean low mileage 2011-2016 truck, I personally don't see the benefit. But I'm not the average truck owner. I pay cash, and tend to put 2-300k on my rigs before even consider selling. People that step from one truck to another every few years and finance them, can and do "benefit" from a new truck without ever owning them. Its not the most financially savy way to do it, but its their money, and not everyone has the interest and/or ability to maintain and keep on the road a high mileage truck.
 

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