Need the solar/power pros to weigh in

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Well Im on the road and I dont think the DC/DC is putting out any power to the battery.

View attachment 547787
Is the engine running? What's the voltage on the alternator side? That 12.91V might be above a turn-on threshold for the charger although I'd expect it to at least step through it algorithm and be at float. But I'm not familiar with Victron, might be sitting disabled since the source isn't high enough to think it's OK to start or that the battery needs to be charged.
 
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shade

Well-known member
Is the engine running? What's the voltage on the alternator side? That 12.91V might be above a turn-on threshold for the charger although I'd expect it to at least step through it algorithm and be at float. But I'm not familiar with Victron, might be sitting disabled since the source isn't high enough to think it's OK to start or that the battery needs to be charged.
I think he's using a simple DC power supply for DC-DC charging.


If so, and the voltage output is set low enough, the battery wouldn't accept a charge, would it?
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
I think he's using a simple DC power supply for DC-DC charging.


If so, and the voltage output is set low enough, the battery wouldn't accept a charge, would it?
Didn't realize he was using a power supply. Depends I'd think on the power supply then, either the set point is too low for the DC-DC to start (likely) or it can't hold up under full load (not likely). Looks like the charger knows the battery is fully charged and hasn't been triggered to go through the algorithm to know to sit at float. What's the model or specs for the PS?
 
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TantoTrailers

Well-known member
Here is the DC/DC converter I am using. I will troubleshoot things tomorrow when I have some time during daylight. Ran out of time today between dropping off the trailer and getting back to camp from work. Stoked to get some things tested out in sub freezing temps!

MEAN WELL SD-100A-12 SD-100 Series 102 W 9.5 to 18 Vin 12 Vout Encapsulated DC/DC Converter - 1 item(s) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076FBHKHK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5fmVDbCJSNW6S

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shade

Well-known member
Here is the DC/DC converter I am using. I will troubleshoot things tomorrow when I have some time during daylight. Ran out of time today between dropping off the trailer and getting back to camp from work. Stoked to get some things tested out in sub freezing temps!

MEAN WELL SD-100A-12 SD-100 Series 102 W 9.5 to 18 Vin 12 Vout Encapsulated DC/DC Converter - 1 item(s) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076FBHKHK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5fmVDbCJSNW6S

View attachment 547853

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If you didn't adjust the output voltage, I'll bet it's too low, possibly at 12V from when it went through QC. You should be able to dial it up using your multimeter.


It's rated at around 80% efficiency, so you may want to keep an eye on temperatures in your utility bay. Extra heat in winter is a good thing, but that may change in the summer.

I saw you mentioned a "Sams club battery" a few pages back. Which one?
 
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DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
that psu can be adjusted to 16v output, just adjust the pot.. https://www.meanwell.com/Upload/PDF/SD-100/SD-100-SPEC.PDF

are you charging it directly with the power supply? It would have to be higher than the battery's voltage to charge it.. you'd have to grab a multimeter and set it to 14.4v to make it a basic dumb DC charger.
The Victron Orion (which I think is what he got if I'm not mistaken) is buck-boost, so it'll work with the power supply lower than the battery. That's the benefit of DC-DC power supplies, the power is converted rather than just matching in and out voltages like a simple PWM (or buck converter). Each input side pulse charges a big inductor and the energy is stored momentarily. It's then switched out on the output side to construct a completely different waveform. It's also how MPPT works in a solar controller.

It just needs to be told that it's OK to do that at some voltage. Victron probably defaults to a voltage high enough that the charging system it's powered from is good. Which would mean a running engine with a charged starter battery, so probably about 13.8V or so. But the low voltage lock out could be as low as you wish. For example if you want to charge a stationary battery from a portable one you could set the low voltage limit to 11V. Perhaps if you're charging a battery in instrumentation or experiments in the field from one you'll take back to your truck or to the office to charge later.
 
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DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Sounds like I have a bit of work to do tomorrow! Yes it currently is running straight from DC/DC to the battery through the shunt. Can/should I run it through the MPPT? Not quite sure what you mean I should adjust at the Victron...the BMV?

Battery:
https://www.samsclub.com/p/duracell-agm-deep-cycle-marine-and-rv-battery-group-size-31dtmagm/prod3590232
What is the exact device you're using to indicate the 12.91V? Is it a DC-DC converter or charger or just a battery monitor?

You generally won't want to run a MPPT solar controller using a random DC power supply as a panel substitute. You can do that but the power supply needs to know how to current limit otherwise the MPPT will just search to find the power supply's max current and blow its fuse.
 

shade

Well-known member
The Victron Orion (which I think is what he got if I'm not mistaken) is buck-boost, so it'll work with the power supply lower than the battery. That's the benefit of DC-DC power supplies, the power is converted rather than just matching in and out voltages like a simple PWM (or buck converter). Each input side pulse charges a big inductor and the energy is stored momentarily. It's then switched out on the output side to construct a completely different waveform. It's also how MPPT works in a solar controller.

It just needs to be told that it's OK to do that at some voltage. Victron probably defaults to a voltage high enough that the charging system it's powered from is good. Which would mean a running engine with a charged starter battery, so probably about 13.8V or so. But the low voltage lock out could be as low as you wish. For example if you want to charge a stationary battery from a portable one you could set the low voltage limit to 11V. Perhaps if you're charging a battery in instrumentation or experiments in the field from one you'll take back to your truck or to the office to charge later.
I brought up the Victron Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC charger earlier, since that's what I'll be using eventually, and I suggested it to the OP. That model hasn't been released yet.
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
I dont think he's running the orion, looks like he's trying to use this DC PSU as the buck to give his battery a 14.4v charge through his trailer wiring.. your DC/DC is just this PSU right @TantoTrailers you dont have a smart regulator on it?

I think its too low a voltage to run through the solar charger, you usually want a 24v+ for that..

A dumb 14.4v charger on a trailer is not all that bad, he can give it a full charge while driving and it dont seem like its a primary charge source.. wont be big charge, but if he cant fit a fixed solar panel to charge while driving its a pretty clever way to fill the gap.
 

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