Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, Updates!
Haha that title is extremely similar to a post I made about a year ago. School and work got ahold of me and I have been away for a while, but worry not! I'm still doing my best to love on the big rig. Unfortunately she's not exactly loving me back, in fact I think the engine expired yesterday afternoon (prompting my first post in like 4 months), more on this later though. Let's start on a good note, shall we?
A while ago I started another thread asking about DT Profab parts. I cannot express how impressed I am with them. I ended up having to wait a bit to get my new steering linkage from them ( I knew this when I ordered, they were posted on the website as "backorder", no harm done), and the wait was worth it, their parts are very, VERY well built. I said this before, but I really wish I'd have known about them the first go around with this build, save me the headache and wallet-ache down the road. Over the last few months, ever since the death wobble incident on the highway, I have completely redone the suspension and steering on this truck, front to back. The only things I haven't replaced are the power steering pump and gear box, and they're getting replaced with the upcoming engine rebuild. No more screwing around…
Here's the new spec sheet:
FRONT:
DT radius arms, steering box brace, track bar and bracket, and HD crossover steering.
Thuren 7" 3rd gen coils
12" travel Bilstein 5100s
14" Poly Performance straps
REAR:
12" Travel Bilsteins
Alcan Spring custom spring packs
Real nice folks over there at Alcan (they're in Grand Junction, CO). They built me a custom set of leaves so I could get rid of the block that used to be in the back of the truck (I'm sure some of you know how bad blocks are behind a diesel, especially 4" blocks, ESPECIALLY behind a stick shift). They build me a set of "progressive" rate springs, 8 leaves thick, with 4" of lift built in, and an additional 800lbs over stock (that was the loose figure I came up with to account for the added weight of the flatbed and the tools I usually carry). Alcan is usually known for tailoring to the 1st gen guys, but take it from me, they make a quality custom springs, and they're really nice folks.
Enough babble, here's some pictures!
Those rear springs required a 6* shim because they absolutely trashed my pinion angle at first haha! My fault, didn't really take the shackle flip into account ahead of time.
And here's how the truck was dressed up for the last month:
True story: I was afraid I would be pulled over for driving with these on, but one night about a week ago I was stopped at a light next to a campus police officer at my university, and I was afraid he'd just give me a ticket or at least pull me over and tell me to turn them off, but he actually ended up rolling his window down and giving me a thumbs up and wishing me a merry Christmas haha! Nothing like spreading some holiday cheer!
Now, into the bad. Last night I was driving up the hill to my father's house and I had the engine wrapped kind of high (not redline, probably 2300 RPM), and out of nowhere the truck started smoking like a chimney. Logic kind of went out the window and i just pulled over and shut down the truck. I popped the hood, fire extinguisher in hand, but at first glance everything was absolutely fine. I was dumbfounded, I thought I was going crazy for a sec, then did the "assessment". The truck was barfing oil all over the front axle (ALL OVER my shiny new DT parts…), so badly that I couldn't find where it was coming from. [Probably] against my better judgement, I started the truck back up to see if I could pinpoint an oil leak, but I wasn't really coming up with anything. What I did see is the crankcase is getting pressurized, like a major blow-by issue. It's definitely not a KDP issue or a thrown rod or something, the engine still runs perfectly, except now it runs on 15w-40 instead of diesel. So, this is the theory I have come up with: I either blew a head gasket or a piston-oil ring, and the crankcase pressure blew an already-crippled power steering pump seal, and leaked the oil all over the axle. Sound realistic? Anybody else have something like this happen on a 12 valve? I'm leaning more towards head gasket, because the smoke is blue (burning oil), and the coolant is black in the radiator.
Anyway, as much as I was loathing doing this so soon (I've only put 20K miles on the truck since I bought it), I think I can safely say the old 12 valve needs a rebuild (270,350 on the odo). Fortunately, I've been planning a rebuild for the last 3 months (with the intention of doing it in June or July), so I have a pretty good plan:
"typical rebuild": honing, new bearings and seals, decked head, etc.
ARP studs
New head gasket (obviously)
valve springs
governor springs
fuel plate (what's ironic is I bought the fuel plate and governor springs about a week ago, was going to install them yesterday night).
I'm trying to get the engine "ready" for huge power upgrades down the road, like several years from now, but for now, still keep it reliable and simple. I'm hoping with the gov springs and fuel plate I can bring the power to about 300 or so (it already has a boost elbow and some pump tuning). That, and a fresh engine with all new internals and fluids, and front accessories, should put me in the clear for at least a few more years, right?
Sorry for the mega-length post, but now a "small oil leak" on a 270K mile motor became a dire issue I need resolved, and I'm trying to do this the right way so I don't have to pull this engine twice. What do you guys think? 12 valve gurus chime in if you've got input!
Otherwise folks as always thanks for checking in and have a great New Year!
Graham