New guy with gen3 montero

[Mountainman75]

The guy at c adam toney showed me on his monitor how the toe was set by the dealer and it looked like this
/ \
\ /
and the camber was like this
/ \

So from what im getting is the toe looks more like this after the 2nd alignment?
/ |
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Camber, not toe.
You're camber is set like this
/|
|\

Which is what gives you the right turn syndrome.

Toe will only affect turn in and how well the rear tracks.
Degrees are kind of a BS measurement for toe. It works, but you can't check it at home in degrees.

To check toe, you just need a tape measure.
Bounce the car, roll it back and forth a bit (maybe 3 feet). Steering set dead ahead.
Get down on the ground by the tires and pass the tape end to your buddy on the other side.
Imagine looking at the outside of the tire like a clock. Go to the bottom front (assuming you are at the drivers front wheel) at around the 7 o'clock position. That's where you want to measure in the front, as high as possible without snagging the tape measure on the undercarriage, and at an opposite spot at ~3 o'clock.

Pick a groove in the tire, doesn't matter which one, just pick. Measure from this groove to the corresponding groove on the tire on the other side of the car.
Write it down.

Do the same at the opposite clock position, i.e. towards the rear.

Let's say you got 66 1/2" for the first measurement (in front)
and 67" for the second (in back). Take the difference, and that's the total toe; i.e. 1/2" (1/4" per side)

If the measurement across the front of the tire is smaller than the measurement across the back, you have "toe in", the opposite would be "toe out".

So if the spec calls for 0 to 1/8" toe in, we'd be out of spec by 3/8". So you need to look at where the tie rods are in relation to the steering knuckle axis. Lets assume they are behind, so we need to shorten the tie rods to get it into spec.

Break the lock nuts loose on each side, and assuming the steering wheel was centered beforehand*, turn each side in a half turn or so, and re-lock the nuts.
Remeasure and see where you are. Repeat till you get it into spec.

*if your steering wheel is not centered by just a hair this is your chance to re-center it without pulling it off the hub. Whichever way it is offset will need to be corrected by altering the tie rod on that side.. play with it a bit and you'll sort it out.

 

[jhill15]

Camber, not toe.
You're camber is set like this
/|
|\

Which is what gives you the right turn syndrome.

Toe will only affect turn in and how well the rear tracks.
Degrees are kind of a BS measurement for toe. It works, but you can't check it at home in degrees.

To check toe, you just need a tape measure.
Bounce the car, roll it back and forth a bit (maybe 3 feet). Steering set dead ahead.
Get down on the ground by the tires and pass the tape end to your buddy on the other side.
Imagine looking at the outside of the tire like a clock. Go to the bottom front (assuming you are at the drivers front wheel) at around the 7 o'clock position. That's where you want to measure in the front, as high as possible without snagging the tape measure on the undercarriage, and at an opposite spot at ~3 o'clock.

Pick a groove in the tire, doesn't matter which one, just pick. Measure from this groove to the corresponding groove on the tire on the other side of the car.
Write it down.

Do the same at the opposite clock position, i.e. towards the rear.

Let's say you got 66 1/2" for the first measurement (in front)
and 67" for the second (in back). Take the difference, and that's the total toe; i.e. 1/2" (1/4" per side)

If the measurement across the front of the tire is smaller than the measurement across the back, you have "toe in", the opposite would be "toe out".

So if the spec calls for 0 to 1/8" toe in, we'd be out of spec by 3/8". So you need to look at where the tie rods are in relation to the steering knuckle axis. Lets assume they are behind, so we need to shorten the tie rods to get it into spec.

Break the lock nuts loose on each side, and assuming the steering wheel was centered beforehand*, turn each side in a half turn or so, and re-lock the nuts.
Remeasure and see where you are. Repeat till you get it into spec.

*if your steering wheel is not centered by just a hair this is your chance to re-center it without pulling it off the hub. Whichever way it is offset will need to be corrected by altering the tie rod on that side.. play with it a bit and you'll sort it out.

Thank you so much mountainman! You have made things so much easier for me and for everyone else who has been reading up on this thread to understand how we can align our trucks without having to take it into a shop.

I feel alot more confident with the help you've given!

 

[Canyonero]

Thanks jhill15. Good info. I'll go for a 4 Ohm speaker then. Watts shouldn't be a problem as I doubt that amp can push too much. Much appreciated!

 

[vanroth]

Thanks jhill15. Good info. I'll go for a 4 Ohm speaker then. Watts shouldn't be a problem as I doubt that amp can push too much. Much appreciated!

This is the one I went with off Amazon - Polk Audio db840 8-Inch Single Voice Coil Subwoofer (Single, Black) . No issues with the install. I did not bother with an adapter and just used some spade connectors I had in my tool kit.

 

[jhill15]

Thanks jhill15. Good info. I'll go for a 4 Ohm speaker then. Watts shouldn't be a problem as I doubt that amp can push too much. Much appreciated!

Your very welcome!

This is the one I went with off Amazon - Polk Audio db840 8-Inch Single Voice Coil Subwoofer (Single, Black) . No issues with the install. I did not bother with an adapter and just used some spade connectors I had in my tool kit.

Very nice polk makes quality stuff!

 

[jhill15]

Thought I would add this link to my key and key fob programming.

http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139159

 

[jhill15]

Put in a new aux fan today.

scored that little guy on ebay for $62.11 plus free shipping. Heres the link if anyone is interested.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/231109894516?_mwBanner=1

I guess my old one had given up the ghost.

 

[jhill15]

What all can get damaged when you hit a pot hole. I nailed the deepest crater in the road I think i've ever seen...or felt for that matter. I don't think I messed anything up but when I hit it the sound was horrendous! !!

 

[Djbenny]

Your alignment could be off after a big pothole.


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[jhill15]

Your alignment could be off after a big pothole.


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Lol its already off, it may have helped it out lol.

 

[jhill15]

Swapped out my o2 sensor this morning. Man that sucker was a pita to get out. As luck..."my luck" would have it bank 2 cylinder 1 is the hardest to get too thanks to the drive shaft..

 

[MascotRejct]

If thats the one on the driver's side downpipes, screw that one. It took about 4 times as long to get it off because whenever i did make any progress on it, the wiring would wind up, then when i went to re set my wrench, the wiring would just unwind and screw it back in...

 

[jhill15]

If thats the one on the driver's side downpipes, screw that one. It took about 4 times as long to get it off because whenever i did make any progress on it, the wiring would wind up, then when i went to re set my wrench, the wiring would just unwind and screw it back in...

That it is, drivers side pre-cat. I ended up clipping the wires. It was a pain! My problem was every time it would loosin up i would give it another turn and it would get tight again.

 

[All-Terrain]

What size tire can you run on the spare tire carrier with your Gen 3? It looks close to the bumper.

 

[jhill15]

What size tire can you run on the spare tire carrier with your Gen 3? It looks close to the bumper.

Mine is a 265/75/16. Its pretty close, i'm not sure if a 255/85/16 would fit but I remember another member running 285/75/16 saying he had to use an extension so the spare would fit because of the width of the tire.