I've been a lurker for a couple of years, But now i need advice. I have a 1991 Suburban 1500 with stock axles. If the front hubs are unlocked and the transfer case is in 2wd, it shouldnt matter what locker is in the front for on road driving- right? it shouldnt turn until I lock the hubs and/or put the transfer case in 4wd. I want to install 4.11's and a front locker but dont like the ARB prices.
New member needs advice for front locker
- Thread starter Jay2mann
- Start date
Capt Sport
Adventurer
To answer your question, yes as long as the hubs are not "locked in" it shouldn't matter if you have a locker in the front. I have a Detroit in the rear my Jeep and the dam things bullet proof. What your concerned with is binding when you turn, and since the wheels are free spooling with the hubs not engaged you should be fine.
ujoint
Supporting Sponsor
I agree, don't put a full locker in the 10 bolt, front or rear. If you don't want to upgrade the axles to a Dana 60/ 14 Bolt, just go with a limited slip. The 10 bolt is very "sensitive" and will break.
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
I have to concur with the "don't lock up a 10 bolt" sentiment - particularly a rear 10 bolt, but I'm not convinced that everyone needs a D60 under the front. I've gone plenty of places with a 10 bolt front w/o issue. These last couple of years the front 10 bolts were a 30 spline version and not the older & weaker 27 spline version.
The 12 bolt or 14 bsf rear out of a similar vintage 2500 would be a good swap if the brute strength (& massive weight) of the 14bff are not needed. The 8 lug front stuff will bolt right onto you existing front axle. You'll need the brake caliper brackets, wheel hubs & rotors, and possibly the stub spindles from a donor.
If you do go with a non-selectable locker in the rear I will suggest making up an air balancing hose. I used two clip-on air chucks on a self-coiling air hose. All sourced from a local auto parts store. The problem with lockers on the pavement is that they really want the rear tires to be the same diameter. I can feel a couple psi inflation pressure difference in the way that the Sub drives. After re-inflating or adjusting each tire's pressure individually it only takes a 1/2 minute to connect the two rear tires together and allow the pressures to equalize and then remove the hose. you can hear the air moving and know when it's done. No need to do this at the front unless you do lock up the front and have a need to drive with the hubs locked on dry pavement, and no need to do it at all for driving on dirt.
The 12 bolt or 14 bsf rear out of a similar vintage 2500 would be a good swap if the brute strength (& massive weight) of the 14bff are not needed. The 8 lug front stuff will bolt right onto you existing front axle. You'll need the brake caliper brackets, wheel hubs & rotors, and possibly the stub spindles from a donor.
If you do go with a non-selectable locker in the rear I will suggest making up an air balancing hose. I used two clip-on air chucks on a self-coiling air hose. All sourced from a local auto parts store. The problem with lockers on the pavement is that they really want the rear tires to be the same diameter. I can feel a couple psi inflation pressure difference in the way that the Sub drives. After re-inflating or adjusting each tire's pressure individually it only takes a 1/2 minute to connect the two rear tires together and allow the pressures to equalize and then remove the hose. you can hear the air moving and know when it's done. No need to do this at the front unless you do lock up the front and have a need to drive with the hubs locked on dry pavement, and no need to do it at all for driving on dirt.
Unfortunetly, I will be driving mostly on paved roads, in my part of Texas the terrain is all flat and privately owned. Since Im only running 33's Im going to keep the stock axles, even the rear locker, I just want to be able to cross a ditch and get in and out of the lease without worry. Also during the next hurricane evacuation I dont want anything to stop me from getting out of town.