New product from Proud Rhino! The SYA Off Road Extension Kit

[zelatore]

FYI, with the stock rods and NO Proud Rhino kit installed I have full range of up/down. So somehow the Proud Rhino kit was causing the false obstruction issue that made the truck go into extended mode.

I'm still getting the cross axle error, so that wasn't caused by the PR kit or rods, but at least now I'll be able to do a solid re-cal on the sensor to see if that will kill the cross axle error. If not, I suspect I've got an intermittant bad height sensor somewhere. Ugh.

 

[perkj]

Price with shipping to California: AU$500. Currently that works out to about US$362. Or about 1/3 what I thought it was. There will be import fees as well I'm sure, though I'm not sure how much. A bill usually just shows up a month or so later from customs.

So I'm doing it. Because I'm a sucker for making stuff more complicated.

Just ordered up mine as well as this is a fantastic price compared to what it used to be. Total ended up being USD$371 after the exchange rate

 

[sunrisehiker]

Aside from LLAMS ordering frenzy, it is funny how a party , that started this very thread , did not responded even once regarding buyers concerns and questions , Lucky8 shame on you, why do you introduce a product, that you can't even stand behind ?

 

[brickpaul65]

Zelatore, would you mind pm'ing me the vendor info for the llams. Sorry, my phone let's me check pm'so and respond but not start new ones.

Paul

FYI, with the stock rods and NO Proud Rhino kit installed I have full range of up/down. So somehow the Proud Rhino kit was causing the false obstruction issue that made the truck go into extended mode.

I'm still getting the cross axle error, so that wasn't caused by the PR kit or rods, but at least now I'll be able to do a solid re-cal on the sensor to see if that will kill the cross axle error. If not, I suspect I've got an intermittant bad height sensor somewhere. Ugh.

 

[perkj]

Zelatore, would you mind pm'ing me the vendor info for the llams. Sorry, my phone let's me check pm'so and respond but not start new ones.

Paul

Their website: http://www.llams.com.au

To order, just email Graeme at sales@llams.com.au He responded within a couple hours. If you want to order he will send you a PayPal invoice for payment.

 

[brickpaul65]

Their website: http://www.llams.com.au

To order, just email Graeme at sales@llams.com.au He responded within a couple hours. If you want to order he will send you a PayPal invoice for payment.

Thanks! Got a pm too from Zelatore. Thank you both for sending the info. No off to beg the Mrs. If you can only get one, IIdtool or LLAMS?

 

[Ray_G]

Thanks! Got a pm too from Zelatore. Thank you both for sending the info. No off to beg the Mrs. If you can only get one, IIdtool or LLAMS?

From what I've seen/heard/read: IID. A lot more functionality in the IID, whereas the LLAMS is a great way to change heights at any speed without diving through interfaces.
Each has their application, but if you were going to get just one, get the IID.

 

[zelatore]

From what I've seen/heard/read: IID. A lot more functionality in the IID, whereas the LLAMS is a great way to change heights at any speed without diving through interfaces.
Each has their application, but if you were going to get just one, get the IID.

Agreed. The IID tool is far more versatile than the LLAMS. LLAMS is sort of a one-trick pony, although it's a cool trick.

 

[zelatore]

Made some progress on the truck today. I think I've finally got it re-calibrated properly at stock. I did about 15 miles with no cross axle errors so fingers crossed it's sorted. Hopefully Monday I'll be able to put the Proud Rhino kit back in and see if my previous errors return. If so, then Houston, we have a problem.

 

[zelatore]

So, an update:

After getting the calibration properly sorted, I started adding mods back one at a time.

First the Johnson Rods went back in. All good - I could use all three heights with no problems.

Then the rear Proud Rhino spacers went in. Still good - no problems

Then I added the rear limit straps. Since I am running mine in a different location than recommended (and really, I don't see how you could run them in the recommended location at all - see earlier post for info) I wanted to make sure they weren't binding somehow. Still good - no problems getting into any height.

Then the fronts went in - ah-ha! Now I've recreated the access height problem. I know the suspension can drop lower than access height before hitting the bump stops if I use the GAP tool to deflate the struts, but when lowering to access the truck thinks there is an obstruction and bounces back up to extended mode - just like before. I can only assume it's going down too slowly for the last few mm which causes the computer to think it's not going down at all and trigger the 'obstruction' error.

Given that I don't actually use access mode unless I'm loading my tent on the roof rack, I'm not too concerned with this and will leave it be. Further, I have the LLAMS tool enroute, which should provide a work-around for this should I need to lower the truck.

Over all, I can't say this kit is a home-run, but with my 33s it's pretty important to have something like it. I think the better solution might still be to mod the struts themselves. Something I may try eventually.

I would like to hear from Lucky8 if they happen to read this concerning how they are mounting the rear limit straps without major rubbing, and if they have a solution to the access height issue. Anybody listening out there?

 

[Dmarchand]

Hey Zel, am I reading this correctly that when you put the limiting straps on in the front (spacer was already in place), that at that point is when you experienced the lack of access height/extended mode situation?

I actually really want to solve this as I drive in the city and the lack of access height means fewer garages I can get into.

 

[JAK]

So, an update:

After getting the calibration properly sorted, I started adding mods back one at a time.

First the Johnson Rods went back in. All good - I could use all three heights with no problems.

Then the rear Proud Rhino spacers went in. Still good - no problems

Then I added the rear limit straps. Since I am running mine in a different location than recommended (and really, I don't see how you could run them in the recommended location at all - see earlier post for info) I wanted to make sure they weren't binding somehow. Still good - no problems getting into any height.

Then the fronts went in - ah-ha! Now I've recreated the access height problem. I know the suspension can drop lower than access height before hitting the bump stops if I use the GAP tool to deflate the struts, but when lowering to access the truck thinks there is an obstruction and bounces back up to extended mode - just like before. I can only assume it's going down too slowly for the last few mm which causes the computer to think it's not going down at all and trigger the 'obstruction' error.

Given that I don't actually use access mode unless I'm loading my tent on the roof rack, I'm not too concerned with this and will leave it be. Further, I have the LLAMS tool enroute, which should provide a work-around for this should I need to lower the truck.

Over all, I can't say this kit is a home-run, but with my 33s it's pretty important to have something like it. I think the better solution might still be to mod the struts themselves. Something I may try eventually.

I would like to hear from Lucky8 if they happen to read this concerning how they are mounting the rear limit straps without major rubbing, and if they have a solution to the access height issue. Anybody listening out there?

You mentioned modifying the strut. This is what I did two years ago. It is actually extremely simple. All you have do is take the thing apart and replace the rubber bumpstop with a taller one. I used a polyurethane tube about two inches in length. It is much more stiff then the ones I took out but I feel that I can live with that. I used the following. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-polyurethane-hollow-tubing/=102f6gl
The nice thing about this is that there are no straps or change in pivot points in the struts.

With some trimming of my sliders I have full lock to lock clearance at the bumpstops with my Nittos, not quite 33s but close.

 

[perkj]

You mentioned modifying the strut. This is what I did two years ago. It is actually extremely simple. All you have do is take the thing apart and replace the rubber bumpstop with a taller one. I used a polyurethane tube about two inches in length. It is much more stiff then the ones I took out but I feel that I can live with that. I used the following. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-polyurethane-hollow-tubing/=102f6gl
The nice thing about this is that there are no straps or change in pivot points in the struts.

With some trimming of my sliders I have full lock to lock clearance at the bumpstops with my Nittos, not quite 33s but close.

I assume the longer bump stop reduces the struts ability to compress as much as it should with the stock bump stop. Have you noticed any downside to this? Also, how much lomger did you make the bumpstop vs stock? Also, what ID and OD tube did you use? Finally, any problems with going down to access mode with the longer bumpstops?

 

[JAK]

I assume the longer bump stop reduces the struts ability to compress as much as it should with the stock bump stop. Have you noticed any downside to this? Also, how much lomger did you make the bumpstop vs stock? Also, what ID and OD tube did you use? Finally, any problems with going down to access mode with the longer bumpstops?

Yes, that is exactly how it works. This is the same way Land Rover designed it to work. I do not remember the exact sizes, ID and OD. The length of the bumpstop was two inches. The OEM bumpstops are about two inches but are very soft and compress way down. Access mode can only be achieved when on level ground and not moving otherwise the truck thinks its hung on an obstacle. I have set the ride height to minimize this but it still happens most of the time.

One of the things that I think the Proud Rhino kit has an advantage in is that the when you lift the LR3 with more air in the airspring the shock extends. At full extension I think the shock provides less dampening. I think Don has said he feels the LR3 is under damped, I tend to agree but I think that we are actually over lifting and overloading. The spacers keep the strut less extended.

 

[perkj]

JAK thanks for the reply. The ability to utilize access mode is critical for me as its the only way I can fit my LR3 in my garage. At this point it doesn't appear the Proud Rhino kit or your bump stop replacement allows for use of access mode without the LR3 thinking its hit an obstacle.

For those with the Proud Rhino kit and having the issue with Access Mode - have any of you contacted Lucky8 to report this issue and if so what has been their response?