new to me 89 4-runner, looking for info

[hillbillyjake]

i am looking for the upmost in reliabilty at stock horsepower. the only reason i am going to change out the timing chain is because i dont knkw when the last time it was changed. it's pushing 221k right now so i figure cheap insurance.

i did not realize the lc kit offered so much more for the price. i can understand the price a little better now.

blknblu, if you can keep cool in those conditionsn i may not have a problem. i think i may look into it. if it dont work then i'll try something else.

thanks
jake

 

[BLKNBLU]

Keep in mind the LC kit for $400 has a similar product from engbldr. So as RU55ELL mentioned just make sure you compare apples to apples. Here are a couple examples.

engnbldr kit with everything $140
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYO...3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=65:12|66:2|39:1|72:1171
LCE kit with everything $402
http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebG...UniqueID=A9D48148-B48B-4888-A3AC-36DAAF7F3DBC

Engnbldr basic kit $50
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYO...3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=65:12|66:2|39:1|72:1171
LCE basic kit $200
http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebG...UniqueID=9587B2BE-4586-4F8D-A534-69F9E446E60D

The main differences being the LC kits come with both guides metal backed and Engnbldr just the driver side. Also, the LC "everything" kit has the double row chain. You'll notice from the discussion above that there is some difference of opinion abut the value of these "upgrades". I'm of the school for the metal driver side only as it is basically there to protect the t chain cover, while the passenger side guide actually applies the tension. I don't personally see the value of the 2 row chain. Good luck and happy shopping. :Mechanic:

 

[4Rescue]

1: The Winch alone on that rig is worth 700+ bucks if it is in decent shape... PLus having an extra rig around that has parts to pilfer is never a bad thing if you have a place to store it and an understanding other half I'm looking for a parts 1st Gen right now so I'll have a sencind top etc...

2: Go with STOCK Toyota Timing chain tensioners and guides. The metal guides may work for some people, but I've seen them fail and I've heard of them leading to catastrophic failures. When the guides start making noise after 100K, it's time to replace the chain and let'er go for another 100K. That's just the service interval, so having a guide that goes longer might cause you to not notice that your T-Chain needs to be replaced... Then you're stuck on the side of a highway with a truck that won't turn over...

3: Time and Time again Toyota genuine parts prove to be THE most reliable way to keep your truck on the road. It makes sence, they overbuilt/perfectly built everything in the first place. I consider Genuine Toyota parts to be performance parts...

4: Watch the steering components... The idler arm from Total Chaos may be spendy but it's something that goes south on these trucks when they're pushed to the limits with bigger tires. This seemx to be the one place that Toyota decided to kind of under engineer things... Sort of funny, Despite the large fender openings, I don't think they intended these trucks to run 33"+ tall tires...

5: Go out and play!!!!! These trucks are so much fun right out of the box, no mods nessescary. IFS aside, Toyota made one hell of a platform for us to start with and really, as far as IFS goes it's about the toughest IFS there is. plus for an Expo rig it's road manners are are excelent.

Cheers

Dave

 

[hillbillyjake]

4rescue, i wish you were closer. there was a 88 in the local ad pad this week with a bad motor fro $350. an 88 and a 86 truck for $400 apiece. good luck with your search.

i probably will go ahead and buy the truck with the winch. like was said, the winch is worth that.

as far as the timing set goes. does anybody have any experience with what napa offer's. i haven't checked prices or quality but was just wondering if any body ever went this route. napa is 5 minutes from the house and the guys treat me well. just curious.

if you end up seeing a psot in theis thread from say jakeswife or hillbilly's other jujst disregard. she is trying to keep me from spendign money on this rig, so just keep the suggestions on how to break the bank coming.:wings:

jake

 

[RU55ELL]

I don't know if LCE is just using a bunch of hype, but they also state that the oil pump is blueprinted and the water pump is a performance pump. The price alone for the engnbldr kit is tempting though.

As for the double roller, I really doubt there is much of a parasitic loss from it, probably less than you get when you turn on your A/C. I see the benefit as being less chain stretch/more durable than the single chain.

 

[pcampbell]

Very nice!

 

[BLKNBLU]

I went with the Engnbldr RV head, one of his cams, his timing chain cover. I have an LC header, their big bore throttle body. I think both companies are great resources to have for the 20/22R community.

How do you like that? Noticeable power increase? Change in MPG? I was all hot to trot for those same items, but in the end the pocketbook said NO! So I've consoled myself with the rationalization that greater air flow means the computer will just dump in more fuel thereby decreasing economy. Sure, more power, but less economy. (and how much more power was I realistically going to get?) Please don't tell me it's way more powerful and more efficient. I ended up with a 268 cam, this one
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=1228&sb=2
and LCE's full exhaust. No OS valves or other head or intake tweaks. I did have the advantage of getting the engine first and the exhaust later. The engine seemed slightly better but nothing that couldn't be due to a fresh rebuild. When I added the exhaust though there was quite a bit more pep. (at least according to the butt dyno) I guess I'll always wonder what the other mods might have accomplished.

As for the double roller, I really doubt there is much of a parasitic loss from it,

Probably true. I just think it's funy that some guys will ditch the reliable clutch style fan for an electric with lots of parts that potentially can fail to gain some small theoretical gain in power only to turn around and put on a double row chain when as mentioned, the singles go 100-200k miles.

 

[RU55ELL]

All in all, I ended up buying the engnbldr kit along with new head bolts.

 

[BLKNBLU]

All in all, I ended up buying the engnbldr kit along with new head bolts.

You won't be disappointed. :beer:

 

[DaveInDenver]

How do you like that? Noticeable power increase? Change in MPG?

Meh. I'm at stock compression, so I don't think I get full advantage of the O/S valves and hotter cam. I had to tinker with the AFM (two clicks richer than stock) to get the engine to not lean out too much and knock, so in that sense the ECU isn't smart enough. My idle is a bit rough. Mileage is not better or worse, typically 18MPG in mixed driving, tickles 21 without pushing it too hard on longer highway trips. Power isn't suddenly a V8, but comparisons are not easy because I have a couple of hundred pounds of armor, it's taller than stock, there's a bike rack on top, camper. I can say this, at 5,300' and higher I'm not too much slower than stock 22R-E trucks. If I could go back and rethink the money I spent rebuilding I probably would have stuck to a more stock rebuild or maybe used the money towards a 3RZ-FE transplant. Hard to say.

 

[hillbillyjake]

finally got time to put tags on it today and take it for a drive. the constant ticking that varied with rpm that i thought to be a lifter was in fact a huge crack in the exhaust manifold:Wow1:. bad news.

couple came by today to buy the quad:wings:. good news. now it begins.

any suggestions on the manifold? i was thinking of going with a header and not take a chance on a used manifold. i also need a complete exhaust. is it better to have a shop do it, or just order a complete exhaust?

any secrets to getting off the old 221k mile manifold would be appriciated.

thanks
jake

 

[bmh]

Doug Thorley tri-y headers are supposed to be really good. Have a local shop do an exhaust, custome is better than off the shelf, they can tuck it up nice and tight for you.

 

[hillbillyjake]

i just got done looking at the northwest offroad site and they had a good looking header but i could not get a price. checked a couple other things on the site for prices and came up with nothing. anybody know anything about this header/site/co.?

jake

 

[hillbillyjake]

i assumed the nwos would be kinda pricey, but that is to be expected from the way it looks.

i looked on summits web site and the thorley's seemed to be about the same price as a lc header. which would be the better option? it seems like on the other forums eferybody leans toward the lc, but i was wondering if they were buying the name. is ther any other palce to check out for the thorley header? thanks again

jake

 

[hillbillyjake]

was looking at the truck, and noticed that the o2 sensor was before the cat. could i get by with taking the cat off without throwing codes or causing the motor to run rich? just wondering

jake