new to me 89 4-runner, looking for info

[DaveInDenver]

Both LCE and Thorley are 4-to-1 and I would expect that the ceramic versions would be comparable in price. Personally I think the LCE would be preferred because they are dedicated to making parts for our old 22R junk. But your criteria might be different, but I try to support companies that support us. LCE is a Toyota-only company and specifically the 20R, 22R, 2RZ and 3RZ. So that's pretty nice to have.

Since you have Federal emissions (California trucks have two O2 sensors I believe), your cat would not affect the ECU fuel map. It is not legal to run without one and your tailpipe emissions will go up. Here in Denver I would not pass my inspection without it, so you might not have to deal with that. Whether or not you personally worry about higher tailpipe emissions, I suppose that's up to you.

 

[hillbillyjake]

no emission test here dave. thanks for the response. i was leaning toward the lc my self, based on there toyota only lineup. that is probably the way i am going to go. thanks again


jake

 

[hillbillyjake]

i checked out napa on line and they had a factory replacement exhaust manifold with studs and gaskets for $104. i think this may be my best option. i did some searching and i could get a complete exhaust from the head to the bumper for considerably less than the price of the header.

does any one have any experience with the napa manifold?. thanks

jake

 

[pcampbell]

Check rockauto.com also. You'll save a little more.

 

[BLKNBLU]

Check rockauto.com also. You'll save a little more.

Yes Rockauto is very good. If you go with them here is a 5% discount code to use.
1910405853966 Good til 8/30 and they encourage "sharing" with friends.

Also I see an OEM part is only $151 at Toyota Parts Sales
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214074
part # 1714135100 and they are having a 10% discount on the site right now too.

So depending on what is important to you, there are some options.
In addition, I have a full LCE exhaust on mine that is of excellent quality and works very well. In hindsight I might have gotten just the header and had the rest fabbed up locally as someone has already suggested. There are some spots where routing could be a little better IMO. It was also expensive.

 

[BLKNBLU]

Also, if you are replacing all or most of the exhaust, here is an option to consider.

A change was made in the downpipe between 84 and 85. The earlier pipes remain 2 chambered much further down than the newer stuff and it essentially is a header. Hopefully these links will work to show what I mean.

The correct part for my 86
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=MAR&MfrPartNumber=359801&PartType=688&PTSet=A

the part for an 84
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=MAR&MfrPartNumber=449921&PartType=688&PTSet=A

A little fudging might be required as I recall my downpipe clamped up to a brace/bracket on the bellhousing to keep it secured. Not sure if the 84 part would work the same way or if you would need to devise some other point to secure it.

 

[hillbillyjake]

i checked the rockauto price and i can buy one at napa for about the same price. its good to have friends. i think i am going to got his route. i am not looking for performance, just stone stock reliability. i think that this manifold is the way to go.

my wife is going to figure out pictures tomorrow. so heres to hopin. thanks

jake

 

[hillbillyjake]

does any body have any experience with 5.29's and 35's? also, will theifs survive w/ 35's durign light wheeling on forest service roads? i am really leanign towards 35's but was wondering if it would be hard on my drivetrain.

my plans are 5.29's, spool rear, open front, 35's for now. any input or opinions? thanks

jake

 

[pcampbell]

I ran 5.29s with 35s for a couple of years. Perfect match. Zipped down the highway just perfect and a lot of fun to drive.

Others may not agree, so just know I only speak from what my own experience has been. For the first 1.5 years that I had my 1st gen, I ran 5.29 gears, 35" Mickey Thompson MTZs, ARB locker in the back, lockrite in the front. Had a 4" Trailmaster lift on the front with the torsion bars loosed up to where it was closer to 3" of lift. Built an idler arm brace myself and added 63" chevy springs in the rear. I've run every 1 through 4 diamond trail at Barnwell Mountain in Gilmer, Texas and done it over and over again. No issues except those that are typical for IFS: alignments get old.

I have always driven to the trail (about 1.5 hours to Barnwell for me) and home and the truck just sucked it all up and asked for more.

 

[pcampbell]

I should add, never broke a single thing during that time.

You will be fine with 35s, especially with what you are going to do. The 1st gen IFS is much stouter that you think.

 

[BLKNBLU]

I never ran 35's on the IFS so I can't speak to breaking things, but now have 35's and 5.29s on the SA (w/22re). I think the 5.29s are a bit too much gear for the 35s and I would like to try 37s. I run about 5mph under what the speedo says and the revs are a bit high. That said, I think 4.88 would not be quite enough.

 

[hillbillyjake]

hey campbell. with the lift you ran, did you have alot of rubbing issues? i realize that my setup to yours is kinda apples to oranges, but still is close enough for comparisons sake.

i realize that 5.29's with 35's may be a bit low, but i'm an going to lean toward the low side. if i have to slow down on the road to gain off road i can deal with that. thanks for the info.

jake

 

[pcampbell]

Forgot to mention....had a 3" body lift too. I hated the body lift and the next thing on my agenda was to cut off all of the armor, remove the body lift and reinstall it all.

The IFS obviously doesn't flex much but you may still get some rubbing on the rear inner fender. Nothing like a flexy solid axle might though.

So I didn't have any rubbing but I was cheating with the body lift. I don't think it would have been too bad to clearance the fenders without it though. The current owner of the truck is a good friend and we wheel together. I'll probably be helping him take the body lift off soon.

 

[pcampbell]

As far as 35s and 5.29s being too low...it's a personal preference. At 70 I was buzzing down the road at just over 3000 rpms. It would do that for hours upon end with no issues and still get really good gas mileage. I would drive 1.5 hours to the trail, wheel for 3 days, drive back 1.5 hours (at 60-70 mph) and only use about a half a tank.

100 horsepower is always going to have issues with steep grades, but it really wasn't too bad, even loaded down with tons of tools, camping gear, and multiple passengers. Only on pretty steep stuff would I ever even pull it down into 4th. Around town was really nice as it actually felt peppy with those gears. To be honest, I was always impressed with just how good it did do. It wasn't a hot rod, but was fun to drive and never complained no matter what I put it through.

 

[hillbillyjake]

i don't know if you saw or not butu i have only a 3" body lift and i thought that youo had only a 4" suspension lift. it looks like i will have some definite saw work coming up. :Wow1: it looks like to me that there is plenty of room on the front to work with but the back will probably pose some greater issues. i guess there is only one wat to findn out.

also. what size rims were you running. there is a set of 15x8 w/3.5" of back spacing on the rig now and the 235's hang out of the fender wells. i can buy a set of 15x7 with 4" of back spacing cheap (to fit with the theme). i know that the 15x7 are a little on the narrow side for a 12.5 but i think they would help get the tires under the fenders. any thought? thanks

jake