New to me 99 Suburban: 5.7 vortec repairs
- Thread starter unabashedpraise
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unabashedpraise
Adventurer
In the dings and pits in the aluminum casting of the intake. To "resurface" the mounting areas.
"In some cases, it may be possible to clean up the mating surface on a pitted head by lightly resurfacing the intake port side of the head. Pits can also be filled and sealed with high temperature epoxy fillers, then sanded or machined flat to restore a smooth, flat surface."http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2010/07/closing-the-gap-on-intake-manifold-gaskets/
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unabashedpraise
Adventurer
Was at the Wal-Mart buying carb cleaner, when I saw a bottle of k-seal. Figured, why not?!
Started up the burb, waited to make sure a wandering car repair magician didn't happen to stop by and fix it while I was asleep (waited for it to start steaming out the tailpipe), and poured in the k seal. Few minutes later, there was a dramatically reduced amount of steam. Drove it awhile, realized it was missing due to the map sensor being unplugged. Drove it some more. No smoke. No leaks.
Going to check it again in the morning...
https://www.kseal.com/products/k-seal
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Started up the burb, waited to make sure a wandering car repair magician didn't happen to stop by and fix it while I was asleep (waited for it to start steaming out the tailpipe), and poured in the k seal. Few minutes later, there was a dramatically reduced amount of steam. Drove it awhile, realized it was missing due to the map sensor being unplugged. Drove it some more. No smoke. No leaks.
Going to check it again in the morning...
https://www.kseal.com/products/k-seal
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unabashedpraise
Adventurer
Looked like copper particles. Similar to bars leak.
I was reading about 90's manufacturing where they sometimes put the tabs to seal engines from the factory. Looking back, I believe there were tabs already in it. I thought it was just reddish sludge.
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I was reading about 90's manufacturing where they sometimes put the tabs to seal engines from the factory. Looking back, I believe there were tabs already in it. I thought it was just reddish sludge.
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rayra
Expedition Leader
I found that also, related in my Vortec topic. GM tech bulletins where they were putting the Delco ground walnut right into corvette engines right on the assembly line.
I've got a couple thousand hard fast highway miles in hi temps since I put mine in, with no further coolant loss. I'd prefer to do it 'right', but $5 bucks beats all hell out of $1000+ for new heads.
I've got a couple thousand hard fast highway miles in hi temps since I put mine in, with no further coolant loss. I'd prefer to do it 'right', but $5 bucks beats all hell out of $1000+ for new heads.
unabashedpraise
Adventurer
rayra
Expedition Leader
Nope. Just filled my coolant tank to the mark and kept my eye on it. No drop in level. I check it and oil etc before every long drive. When the head crack happened I started losing about 1/2" out of that tank every few hundred miles. But no visible vapor, nothing like yours.
If you're no longer getting that smoke cloud and your coolant level isn't dropping, I'd call it fixed. I'd check cylinder pressure on that low cylinder again, out of curiosity. That might still be a valve / valve guide / valve seal problem.
And after that much coolant thru the combustion chamber I'd re-check your oil for water / coolant or flat out change it again.
DID that smoke cloud you were generating stop after the stop leak?
If you're no longer getting that smoke cloud and your coolant level isn't dropping, I'd call it fixed. I'd check cylinder pressure on that low cylinder again, out of curiosity. That might still be a valve / valve guide / valve seal problem.
And after that much coolant thru the combustion chamber I'd re-check your oil for water / coolant or flat out change it again.
DID that smoke cloud you were generating stop after the stop leak?
unabashedpraise
Adventurer
Smoke cloud did stop. No obvious smell of coolant from tailpipe. Still losing coolant, but it may be from the leak I've acquired from the drain area...
I do not like that gm plug with the metal tab. I think I gouged the channel and it's not getting a good seal.I changed the oil before a short trip we took. I was too paranoid and it was only some Wal-Mart cheap oil anyways.
I am getting a p0420 code.
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rayra
Expedition Leader
420 is (ironically) probably because of all the smoke / steam. Fouled up either your catalytic or the sensor tips. I would expect it to rectify after you've done a good bit of highway driving and burned the crap out of the catalytic. But that depends, how hard is your water? Might have put enough mineral deposits in there to be a problem.
But I'd start with pulling the O2 sensors and (safely) cleaning them if possible and resetting the code. It will likely re-trigger. Whether it does or doesn't, I wouldn't worry about it until I put a couple hundred hot-burning miles on it.
And if it doesn't clear eventually I'd start with replacing the O2 sensor that is AFTER the catalytic. This is also where it would have been useful to determine which cylinder bank the leak was on. Not sure about your year range but mine has dual cats, 4 O2 sensors, a set of everything on each side. Which trailing O2 sensor to replace? Maybe you can tell by looking at them / comparing them. Look for the one that seems more fouled, or has mineral scale on it. Install 1 new sensor. If that doesn't resolve it, try swapping sides with that new sensor. Maybe you can get away with buying just one.
rockauto.com has them for $20-28. Each.
But I'd start with pulling the O2 sensors and (safely) cleaning them if possible and resetting the code. It will likely re-trigger. Whether it does or doesn't, I wouldn't worry about it until I put a couple hundred hot-burning miles on it.
And if it doesn't clear eventually I'd start with replacing the O2 sensor that is AFTER the catalytic. This is also where it would have been useful to determine which cylinder bank the leak was on. Not sure about your year range but mine has dual cats, 4 O2 sensors, a set of everything on each side. Which trailing O2 sensor to replace? Maybe you can tell by looking at them / comparing them. Look for the one that seems more fouled, or has mineral scale on it. Install 1 new sensor. If that doesn't resolve it, try swapping sides with that new sensor. Maybe you can get away with buying just one.
rockauto.com has them for $20-28. Each.
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unabashedpraise
Adventurer
*Praying it passes inspection*
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unabashedpraise
Adventurer
I was worried when he mentioned my coolant leak at the radiator, but it passed!
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unabashedpraise
Adventurer
So about that radiator leak....
Picked up a carquest radiator (honestly they all looked the same). All aluminum is way too expensive on these things.
Read about it. Watched a video. Seemed like a simple job. Tran lines come off just fine. But then Murphy stepped in. The second, lower, oil cooler line is frozen to the nut, and not budging. ☹️
The lines are crap anyways, completely covered in oil. Welp, ordered new oil cooler lines. How the heck do you get these off the oil filter adapter?!
Should have ordered personal plates while at the DMV: $$$-PIT
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Picked up a carquest radiator (honestly they all looked the same). All aluminum is way too expensive on these things.
Read about it. Watched a video. Seemed like a simple job. Tran lines come off just fine. But then Murphy stepped in. The second, lower, oil cooler line is frozen to the nut, and not budging. ☹️
The lines are crap anyways, completely covered in oil. Welp, ordered new oil cooler lines. How the heck do you get these off the oil filter adapter?!
Should have ordered personal plates while at the DMV: $$$-PIT
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rayra
Expedition Leader
hah. Congrats on the passage, that was a bold move. Any return of the 420 code?
You're saying 'oil cooler' but are you referring to the radiator in-tank transmission cooler lines? Or does your vehicle actually have engine oil lines plumbed thru the radiator? And if so, how is the transmission being cooled, if at all?
I'd shoot some penetrating oil in between the cooler line mounting nut and the line tube itself, give it a little time to work. And then I'd use a proper flare nut wrench and try to loosen the nut. And also try tightening it slightly. Make small moves in both directions, until the nut breaks free from the line. IF you try to turn it too far while it's stuck, it's likely to break free from the radiator threads and you'll twist / collapse the metal cooling line like a piece of licorice.
You can cut / splice that line if you have to. But use a proper compression / flare nut union on the splice, rather than rubber gas line and clamps. IIRC it's as high as ~60psi in that trans cooling plumbing circuit. Rubber hose patch may leak.
You're saying 'oil cooler' but are you referring to the radiator in-tank transmission cooler lines? Or does your vehicle actually have engine oil lines plumbed thru the radiator? And if so, how is the transmission being cooled, if at all?
I'd shoot some penetrating oil in between the cooler line mounting nut and the line tube itself, give it a little time to work. And then I'd use a proper flare nut wrench and try to loosen the nut. And also try tightening it slightly. Make small moves in both directions, until the nut breaks free from the line. IF you try to turn it too far while it's stuck, it's likely to break free from the radiator threads and you'll twist / collapse the metal cooling line like a piece of licorice.
You can cut / splice that line if you have to. But use a proper compression / flare nut union on the splice, rather than rubber gas line and clamps. IIRC it's as high as ~60psi in that trans cooling plumbing circuit. Rubber hose patch may leak.
unabashedpraise
Adventurer
Cleared the 420 few days ago. Hasn't returned, but I was thinking it does a test a few times before it throws a code. I'll keep an eye on it. I did take some screen shots of the o2 sensors, but I have no idea what they mean.
This thing has trans and oil cooler built into radiator. I've read how a lot of people just delete the leaking lines. If these dorman (cheap) lines fail I may do that. I was able to get both the lines for about $25. Maybe make my own. Not sure if the cooler is needed or not.
The lower line but is loose at the radiator, frozen to the line itself. Tried working it back and forth, tightening and loosening. Even put vise grips on the line itself. Nada. These lines are disgusting and caked in oil and dirty. You can't even see the ribbing on the protective hose cover. Looks like they have been leaking a very very long time. I'm not sure where the leak is, but it appears to be where the hose and line meet.
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