New truck battery 12.2 volts

[Buddha.]

I didn't think changing my battery was going to turn into such a prolonged ordeal. I've switched the battery out so many times I could do it in my sleep by now. My wife is probably starting to wonder at his point.

Good news is I looked up the RPO codes in my glovebox and I have the plow package which means I have the biggest alternator available for my truck, 160amp.

 

[67cj5]

As many of us are using 2,3 and even 4 Batteries, It would be wise if you "Everyone" bought one of these, Because it will give you the Voltage, Ohms, SOC/SOH in % and a few other bits of info as well as being able to test your Alternator and Starter Motor etc,

It will also print out the true CCA/CA etc of the battery, Some companies pull a fast one and sell you a 1000cca battery when in fact they are selling you A 1000mac /Marine Cranking Amps Battery even though they say it is a 1000cca somewhere near by they have the word Marine hidden in the text Marine 1000cca when there is no such thing, It is in fact only 800cca,

I bought this meter because I could not work out why the batteries did not perform as expected and this Magical piece of Kit solved all my problems and proved that I was being Coned by the Battery company, And it is kinder to your battery than the old fashioned Load testers,



https://www.amazon.co.uk/ANCEL-100-...ocphy=1006886&hvtargid=pla-539750859973&psc=1

 

[67cj5]

Here is a View of the Screens it has and you can change the settings so it matches your battery accurately,

 

[DaveInDenver]

It will also print out the true CCA/CA etc of the battery, Some companies pull a fast one and sell you a 1000cca battery when in fact they are selling you A 1000mac /Marine Cranking Amps Battery even though they say it is a 1000cca somewhere near by they have the word Marine hidden in the text Marine 1000cca when there is no such thing, It is in fact only 800cca,

SAE J537 defines Cold Cranking Amps and Reserve Capacity in the sequence of battery tests.

Cold Cranking Amps
Current delivered for 30 seconds at -18°C (0°F) and -29°C (-20°F) and to pass the battery must remain at 1.2V/cell (7.2 V for a 12V nominal) or greater.



Marine Cranking Amps (or simply Cranking Amps) and Hot Cranking Amps are specification referenced by several manufacturers but I'm not sure if they are "officially" defined in an industry document.

Hot Cranking Amps
Same test done at 26.7°C (80°F)

Marine Cranking Amps
Same test done at 0°C (32°F)

Yuasa:
https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/understanding-the-specifications/



Odyssey:
https://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/US-ODY-TM.pdf

From their Technical Manual

 

[67cj5]

SAE J537 defines Cold Cranking Amps and Reserve Capacity in the sequence of battery tests.

Cold Cranking Amps
Current delivered for 30 seconds at -18°C (0°F) and -29°C (-20°F) and to pass the battery must remain at 1.2V/cell (7.2 V for a 12V nominal) or greater.

View attachment 537987

Marine Cranking Amps (or simply Cranking Amps) and Hot Cranking Amps are specification referenced by several manufacturers but I'm not sure if they are "officially" defined in an industry document.

Hot Cranking Amps
Same test done at 26.7°C (80°F)

Marine Cranking Amps
Same test done at 0°C (32°F)

Yuasa:
https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/understanding-the-specifications/

View attachment 537992

Odyssey:
https://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/US-ODY-TM.pdf

From their Technical Manual

View attachment 537985

Yes, when a person first starts messing with batteries all these different ratings can become confusing, So when I bought that meter/tester I worked out all the ratio's so I know exactly what I am looking at, Having bought batteries I have seen on the web Only to have them turn up and the Label gives a different rating, CCA is the same as the EN rating and CA is the same as MCA,

A Battery which is 1000CCA/EN has a higher A/H than a Battery which is 1000CA/MCA, This is why a higher CCA Rating is the preferred way of buying a battery,

Where it all goes wrong is when you buy a battery with a high A/H Rating but it has a Low CCA rating, So choosing a high CCA is the better way to go.

 

[shade]

As many of us are using 2,3 and even 4 Batteries, It would be wise if you "Everyone" bought one of these, Because it will give you the Voltage, Ohms, SOC/SOH in % and a few other bits of info as well as being able to test your Alternator and Starter Motor etc,

It will also print out the true CCA/CA etc of the battery, Some companies pull a fast one and sell you a 1000cca battery when in fact they are selling you A 1000mac /Marine Cranking Amps Battery even though they say it is a 1000cca somewhere near by they have the word Marine hidden in the text Marine 1000cca when there is no such thing, It is in fact only 800cca,

I bought this meter because I could not work out why the batteries did not perform as expected and this Magical piece of Kit solved all my problems and proved that I was being Coned by the Battery company, And it is kinder to your battery than the old fashioned Load testers,

View attachment 537980

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ANCEL-100-...ocphy=1006886&hvtargid=pla-539750859973&psc=1

Thanks for the tip. I've considered an analyzer, usually as I'm wishing I wasn't dealing with a dead battery.

Ancel doesn't provide much for a comparison here, but the Amazon pages have more to go on.

It's not easy to tell without the manuals, but it appears that the Ancel BA101 is an equivalent tool, with the exception of 24V capability and printer.

 

[67cj5]

Thanks for the tip. I've considered an analyzer, usually as I'm wishing I wasn't dealing with a dead battery.

Ancel doesn't provide much for a comparison here, but the Amazon pages have more to go on.

It's not easy to tell without the manuals, but it appears that the Ancel BA101 is an equivalent tool, with the exception of 24V capability and printer.

Well it is a great little gizmo, You can select what ever the rating system used by the battery makers and select/adjust the CCA capacity etc. I's so simple and it tells you all the important stuff as in the picture above, The older type of load testers are fine but if you have a battery that is down on it's charge and you stick one of those on it then you take even more power from the battery, Also when you fully charge a battery then load test it you then knock it back down a fair bit, And their volt scale tells you very little because even a stuffed battery can have High voltage, So this Tester is way way better, This takes all the guess work out of battery testing,

You can pay well over a 1000 bucks for this type of tester but this one does all you need at a tenth of the price,, A few presses of the buttons and the jobs done,

 

[shade]

I've been reading the Amazon reviews on the BA101. Nearly every negative review clearly indicates user error. No surprise it doesn't work on LFP batteries, but there should be a proper BMS used with LFP anyway. It doesn't have a printer, but it can output to a computer to log test results. A photo of the screen would work, too.

For $45, the BA101 looks like a good way for me to monitor starting battery health. I may add one to my next order. Thanks again.

 

[DaveInDenver]

I've been reading the Amazon reviews on the BA101. Nearly every negative review clearly indicates user error. No surprise it doesn't work on LFP batteries, but there should be a proper BMS used with LFP anyway. It doesn't have a printer, but it can output to a computer to log test results. A photo of the screen would work, too.

For $45, the BA101 looks like a good way for me to monitor starting battery health. I may add one to my next order. Thanks again.

It looks like you can download the information, though, which is just as good IMO.

 

[Buddha.]

Battery voltage this morning after sitting for 12 hours was 12.6v. I’m gonna say I’m finally done with the battery swap.