NPR 4wd conversion and camper build thread.

javajoe79

Fabricator
More progress. I am really close to ready for driveshafts to be made. I got the rear of the frame stripped and painted, finished the suspension arm mounts, installed the transfer case brace and fabricated new engine and transmission mounts.

16807304_1084166761693217_3145365698481494085_n.jpg


16711964_1084166765026550_506616851497451866_n.jpg


16640624_1084166805026546_308810950382139744_n.jpg


16729253_1084166818359878_4387523500904504481_n.jpg


16807824_1084166851693208_3930139393344820478_n.jpg
 

NOSAJ

New member
I just found this thread and was wondering what happened to that project. I own a few of those Isuzu's in my landscaping business. I've got one with a blown engine and was wanting to convert it to the 6bt and 4x4. Really interested in your project. It looks great!
 

javajoe79

Fabricator
Thanks man! I think they're a great platform for a complete overhaul like this since they can be acquired so cheap.
 

NOSAJ

New member
I might have to check out your shop and this build sometime! I'm always down at the starter rebuild shop down from you. I really want to see how you tackle that steering.
 

javajoe79

Fabricator
Sure! Come on by any time I ordered this part from supersteer

p3032aM.jpg


I believe it's the same piece that Rebel used on their Isuzu. I am going to fabricate the rest of the linkage next. I think it should be pretty straight forward at this point.
 

NOSAJ

New member
Cool thanks for sharing that. I'd love to see some pictures of how you tackle the steering when you get there. Also after reading through it looks as though you kept the f350 axels but switched to srw? I'm wanting to convert mine to 4x4 but hope to use it as a dump truck too (nothing too heavy mostly brush, rock, dirt). My dump trailer has 2 7,000 lbs axels combined at 14,000. Something around that weight. Anyway I'm trying to make up my mind on axels. I was going to run the f350 axels with the dual rear but after reading through your thread maybe that's not enough axel for me? Do you have any ideas which axels you might upgrade to if yours don't prove strong enough for your needs? Thanks for the help.
 

DzlToy

Explorer
If you are looking to replace a pair of 7K axles, you will need something like an S110 or an S135. Depending on the year, they are rated up to 16,000 pounds GAWR. Think F550 or F650, not F350.

You can get a Detroit True-Trac or No-Spin, I forget which, but no lunch box lockers or air lockers (ARB), that I am aware of.

They will be baby 10 lug, so you will need adapters on the rear to make it match a front 3/4 ton or 1 ton axle.
 

Ozrockrat

Expedition Leader
Of just go real big and get a set of the narrow MRAP Axletech 4000. Portals, lockers and basically unbreakable in expo/domestic use. Plus the price is right.
 

javajoe79

Fabricator
Cool thanks for sharing that. I'd love to see some pictures of how you tackle the steering when you get there. Also after reading through it looks as though you kept the f350 axels but switched to srw? I'm wanting to convert mine to 4x4 but hope to use it as a dump truck too (nothing too heavy mostly brush, rock, dirt). My dump trailer has 2 7,000 lbs axels combined at 14,000. Something around that weight. Anyway I'm trying to make up my mind on axels. I was going to run the f350 axels with the dual rear but after reading through your thread maybe that's not enough axel for me? Do you have any ideas which axels you might upgrade to if yours don't prove strong enough for your needs? Thanks for the help.
I haven't considered axle upgrades. I don't think I'll ever be over the weight that is doable with what I have. My camper box is small and light and I'm keeping most things as light as possible. Shooting for 15k lbs or less. That's also less weight than the hummer tires are good for.
 

javajoe79

Fabricator
I've been working on the steering linkage to convert the Isuzu's front to back steering into side to side steering for the Dana 60. The following pics are what I came up with.

I cut up and turned down part of the Isuzu linkage and mated it to some 1.5" x .250" wall DOM with a 7/8" x 18 bung welded in to accept a 1 ton Chevy tie rod end.

17190808_1099593743483852_7659189282674100731_n.jpg


17191061_1099593790150514_7322597953970109518_n.jpg


17200908_1099593823483844_4629744839459480922_n.jpg


Next I made a similar linkage for the axle end of the system. Same materials and tie rods.

17190563_1099593866817173_624488295596063078_n.jpg
 

javajoe79

Fabricator
Then I bolted the super steer pivot to my frame and machined a bellcrank from 1" steel plate with tapered holes to accept the taper on the pivot and the taper on the tie rods. Please ignore the rough finish on the bellcrank. I'm not done carving on it.

17191322_1099593913483835_5257962171370433485_n.jpg


17191216_1099593930150500_1650622486010404918_n.jpg


17201420_1099593956817164_7941473540433966321_n.jpg


17156084_1099593966817163_5235701837008343934_n.jpg


4 turns lock to lock.
 

DzlToy

Explorer
I will be interested to see how it drives with four instead of the OEM five turns LTL...

Are you concerned about so many pivots or junctions of bolts, tubing, bearings, bushings, etc?

Not many options with push pull steering as you know.
 

javajoe79

Fabricator
I will be interested to see how it drives with four instead of the OEM five turns LTL...

Are you concerned about so many pivots or junctions of bolts, tubing, bearings, bushings, etc?

Not many options with push pull steering as you know.



Yeah you're correct. I am not using all the travel in the steering box but I could change that by making a different bellcrank with a different ratio. It wasn't too difficult to make. I did put the truck on the ground and steered it with no power assist and it wasn't terrible considering the lack of assist.

I'm not worried about all that really. I plan on putting it all through it's paces pretty hard before I mount the camper. If I break or wear stuff out too fast, I can ugrade or modify. I am pretty sure this is exactly what they did with the Rebelzilla truck. They have had their truck out and tested it so at this point I feel the suersteer pivot is strong enough. This time around, I bought the cheapest tie rod ends from rockauto. They were only $6 each. How is that even possible? They are huge. If they seem to wear fast or break when I beat on them, I will buy the higher quality offerings for around $30 each. Once I redo the crossover tierod, all the parts will be the same 1 ton chevy tie rod ends so my necessary spares will be minimal. The tubing is probably overkill but I didn't want to risk bending them so hopefully I break tie rod ends if anything. When I put the bend in the drag link I tried to do it first with the 20 ton press alone and it wouldn't bend it so I had to heat it up with the torch. Seems like that should be plenty strong and I think it's a common size tubing for these parts on rock crawlers. The supersteer pivot seems very well made. The shaft is very thick and rides on adjustable, tapered roller bearings. My only concern with it is that the housing is aluminum. I am going to make a plate to bolt in over it and sandwich it with the frame but if I break it, I will machine one from steel. Supersteer actually gave me the drawings. Pretty cool of them.

But yeah, this was the best I could come up with, using the axle I have. I feel pretty good about it. If I break it, I will enjoy the challenge of making it better.

Looking good.

Thanks! Up next is finalizing the engine mounts then having a look at front caster and redoing the bracing and attachment points for the front springs. They did quite a bit of what seemed to be hasty welding and bracing on this truck before I got it. I am going to make the rear spring shackle mounts bolt to the frame instead of leaving them welded. The fronts I will just redo the braces as they attach to a separate structure from the frame and I'm not worried about welding to that.
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
188,161
Messages
2,902,888
Members
229,582
Latest member
JSKepler
Top