OBI Dweller Review and Discussion

WillySwan

Well-known member
On the topic of winterizing, here is my basic procedure for winterizing my D13.
  • Drain both fresh water tanks. I pull the main drain plugs on each tank with a 41mm 6-point socket.
  • Briefly run the pump, with a faucet cracked open, and alternate the supply valve to ensure the supply lines from both tanks are empty.
  • Empty water out of the small suction strainer that is located between the tank-select valve and the pump.
  • Repeat previous 2 steps until no water is pulled into the suction strainer.
  • Hook an air flush adapter to the city water fitting.
  • Attach a regulated air supply. 30 psi may be safe, but 20 psi is more than adequate. You can even use a bicycle pump.
  • Blow out all of the hot and cold lines by opening the faucets. Start at the highest fixture and work your way down:
    - Ensuite Shower
    - Ensuite Sink
    - Outdoor Shower
    - Galley Sink
    - Draw-bar Spigot
  • Open the pressure-relief/drain-valve on the Truma Combi under the bed to drain any remaining water in the hot water tank. See Truma instructions for location.
  • Repeat previous 2 steps until you are confident all water is out of the fresh water lines.
  • Drain the supply tank for the Thetford cassette toilet.
  • Run the flush pump to clear any water remaining water from the toilet flush water system.
  • Add RV antifreeze to the toilet water supply until it is visible on the sight glass. Run the flush pump until the colored RV antifreeze runs in the bowl.
  • Ensure the gray water tank and toilet cassette are empty.
I know some people just drain the toilet supply and run the flush pump dry, but RV antifreeze has worked for me. I also keep the toilet this way as I also use it with RV antifreeze for dry winter camping.

I do not use any RV antifreeze on the fresh water system. The Truma Combi owners manual specifically advises not to use RV antifreeze unless a "bypass kit" is installed which keeps the antifreeze out of the hot water tank. My D13 does not have a bypass kit. The draining procedure above takes less than 30 minutes once you have done it a time or two. It has not let me down yet.
 
Last edited:

LaBlaze

Member
Another Important thing I learned the hard way ....
My D13 has a front and rear tank for water.
Front meaning closest to the hitch
I had both filled up and shot off to the amazing deserts of Moab
Eventually my Front tank went empty.
Ok I thought .. so just use that lever under the bed to switch to the other tank ...
Water pump ... making all sorts of noise
No water coming out of faucets
:(
Next morning called ROA support - long story short .. don't let your tank run empty .. air will get in the system .. and needs to be bled out ..
But how?
No easy way to do it .. unless you install a 3-way valve btw pump and water sources...
ROA sent me the valve .. and I sourced some PEX pipes/fittings.... inserted it between the pump and tanks ... then got a hand pump from an RV shop.. this connects to the 3-way valve and the other end goes into a bucket of water.
Now I can force water (or even winter antifreeze) through the system ... flushing out any air in the pipes that causes problems with the water pump ...
I think this should have been built-in from the get-go but alas no....
This is interesting because we've never had a problem letting one tank go dry and then switching to the other one. We've done it multiple times. We usually use up the back tank first and then switch to the front. Sometimes we only have the back tank half full, front tank full, run the water from both tanks and when the bank goes empty we just switch to 100% in the front. I definitely think there's something else going on with your camper. If we're going from place to place we like to use our back tank first so when we drive again it'll be less weight in the back. D13 here.
 
Re: TV Antenna cable on ‘22 D13

Guys, is the coaxial cable powered on this camper ? Could it power a directional antenna ?
 

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TonyJ

New member
Does anyone know where I can pick up a couple of drain plugs for the fresh/city water tanks? I've replaced mine with PVC plugs, but the threads are not exactly right. I'd like to get real OEM replacements. Any ideas?
 

marmotguy

New member
We’ve decided to go with a Starlink mini so we’ll just stream too. We have a fire stick plugged into the TV. Assuming you have a Starlink mini do you have a picture and link to your Starlink adapter ?
I don’t have a photo of it and the rig is currently covered up. But here’s a link to the mount. I just had to drill some holes into that tv antenna mount to fit the Starlink mount. I have Gen 2 Starlink with Motorized antenna.
 

TonyJ

New member
We’ve decided to go with a Starlink mini so we’ll just stream too. We have a fire stick plugged into the TV. Assuming you have a Starlink mini do you have a picture and link to your Starlink adapter ?
My wife and I are thinking about going with the "mini", please post how you like it once you use it for a while. Thanks!
 

Dmora874

New member
Not sure if anyone has had issues with tail light turn signals not working or what direction to head in trying to deduct things down on what to try.

Current issue:
Passenger tail light turn signal and brake light do not work.


Steps taken:
Tried to replace light with one off of amazon wired up and still not working. Realized if If touch the ground wire to the stainless oven cover the light will turn on. However, the brake and turn signal do not work, just running light.
Checked all fuses related and they are not burnt.
Took off the light from the driver side which is working and plugged into the passenger side, did not work. This leads me to believe it has to do with the wiring or the plug. I then tried to use taps to bypass the plug with the same issues as above, just running light.
Tried to plug in another truck to rule out a fuse in the truck same issues.
I know this is probably impossible to diagnose with the poor description above but maybe a long shot someone has had this issue before.

Thank you in advance.


Model type is Dweller 15.
 

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