OBI Dweller Review and Discussion

Obsessed2findARuggedHybid

Well-known member
yeah I think i'll do that ... scoped out kingsbury grade the other day and it looked as if it could be quite challenging going east in snowy/icy conditions ... but I do still need to get some chains ... to carry just in case ... I suppose any old 16 inch chains will do?

Do you chain up your tow vehicle? I have driven in 16" of unplowed snow on i80 up Parlys canyon with my Lexus GX 460 that is awesome in snow and did really feel like the trailer needed chains.
 

landy66

Member
Do you chain up your tow vehicle? I have driven in 16" of unplowed snow on i80 up Parlys canyon with my Lexus GX 460 that is awesome in snow and did really feel like the trailer needed chains.
I'm new to trailer towing ... .. my tow vehicle is a Land Rover ... never chained it up ever in snow/ice... driven all over Tahoe in it for years... but having the D13 out back .. is new to me ... feels different .. and nervous about the mtn pass downslopes...
 
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Obsessed2findARuggedHybid

Well-known member
I'm new to trailer towing ... .. my tow vehicle is a Land Rover ... never chained it up ever in snow/ice... driven all over Tahoe in it for years... but having the D13 out back .. is new to me ... feels different .. and nervous about the mtn pass downslopes...

Slap some Blizzaks on the Rover and you should be good. I assume you of course have a brake controller. Maybe others will correct me on this.
 

Raspy

Active member
Slap some Blizzaks on the Rover and you should be good. I assume you of course have a brake controller. Maybe others will correct me on this.
Any time chains are required, and you are towing, in CA, you have to chain the tow vehicle and the trailer. It has nothing to do with whether you can make it or have made it before. It has nothing to do with the kind of tires you have. When not towing, and if you have 4WD and M&S rated tires, you can proceed without chains. It's the trailer that changes the requirements.
 

Obsessed2findARuggedHybid

Well-known member
Gotcha ya , I did not know this. This is good to know if i ever head to CA in snow. I will also make sure other states don't have this law. Have you ever had to chains up any of your off road trailers? If one has tandum axel trailer that is eight tires to chain. That would be a pain in the neck.
 
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Obsessed2findARuggedHybid

Well-known member
Any time chains are required, and you are towing, in CA, you have to chain the tow vehicle and the trailer. It has nothing to do with whether you can make it or have made it before. It has nothing to do with the kind of tires you have. When not towing, and if you have 4WD and M&S rated tires, you can proceed without chains. It's the trailer that changes the requirements.

The following vid explains why we should all listen to Raspy. It's in the first two minutes of video

 

Raspy

Active member
Gotcha ya , I did not know this. This is good to know if i ever head to CA in snow. I will also make sure other states don't have this law. Have you ever had to chains up any of your off road trailers? If one has tandum axel trailer that is eight tires to chain. That would be a pain in the neck.
As far as I know, if towing, you must chain up at least one drive axle and at least one trailer axle. So, with tandem axle off-road trailer, only the front of rear axle tires would have to be chained. And, of course, the drive axles of the truck. So, four tires. And almost always, the tailer tires are a different size than the truck tires. I carry a set of cut down semi-truck chains for my 35" truck tires and a set of cables for my trailer tires. But I will go way out of my way to avoid towing in the snow. On the truck, I have snow tires with the three peak mountain symbol, so nobody can dispute they are rated for snow. I drive right through chain controls. I have only had to chain a trailer up once. And you must carry chains in CA. I assume that means carry chains if traveling in chain control areas, as the requirements could be upgraded to "chains mandatory", from "chains or four wheel drive with snow tires". Last winter, I towed a dump trailer down to LA from N Nevada to pick up some equipment. 395 had various chain control areas along my route. So I turned back, at about 1 AM from Bridgeport and took a dirt road, in mud, while snowing, (Lucky Boy Pass) east toward Hwy 95 in Nevada, over the mountains, and then south past Hawthorne and back over another pass into CA South of any chain controls. This saved me from repeatedly chaining up and taking off on 395. But it was pretty slippery with 4WD required to tow over the pass in the show covered mud, at about 2AM. I saw no other vehicles for a couple of hours. Going over the Sierra range can be fun and get to white out conditions. One night I had to roll down the passenger window and drive by watching the guard rail out the window, as I could not see ahead at all. This is why I have a Super Duty Tremor and a Jeep Rubicon. And why my Reboot stays home if I can't find a route without snow. Love it.
 

landy66

Member
E 80 H
So today my Truma heater has started cutting out. My 300 Ah Lithium batteries are fully charged and sitting happily between 13-14V
I hear the fan come on .. revs up high ... then 'click' .. and OFF... everything dead... and message 'E 80 H'
Has anyone else experienced this?
 

marmotguy

New member
I have a faulty light switch in my Dweller 13 and would like to replace it with one that I can just swap without having to cut out larger holes (currently 2-1/8" square). I've tried looking online for this switch but cannot find it. Any suggestions on where to source it? I've include photos of the front and back.
IMG_1037.jpegIMG_1033.jpeg
 

marmotguy

New member
I have a faulty light switch in my Dweller 13 and would like to replace it with one that I can just swap without having to cut out larger holes (currently 2-1/8" square). I've tried looking online for this switch but cannot find it. Any suggestions on where to source it? I've include photos of the front and back.
View attachment 865110View attachment 865111
I think I solved the issue. I think the plate was secured too tightly into the opening which caused it to bend and recess into the opening a bit. This didn't allow the plastic switch covers to fully engage. I'm glad it was a simple issue because finding an exact replacement is difficult. It appears that these are European switches and the closest I could find on eBay were from Poland and weren't cheap.
 

irishgrey

New member
D13 Team... I just did the lithium battery upgrade... took out the big lead acid and replaced with 3 Li-Time 100ah.

  • did the inverter settings
  • installed the batteries using same wiring etc
  • hooked to power, all 3 batteries fully charged everything working.
The original wiring has all 3 batteries wired separately all joining at the inverter ... I assume this is called a "Series" set up ?

I have turned everything on that could be turned on and only 1 battery ( batt no 2 ) is showing as being used... the other two batteries ( no 1 & no 3 ) are not showing any drain...

Is this because it's in Series so Batt no 2 will drain then batt 1 or 3 will kick in next ?

I've attached images of the Li Time app showing the 3 batteries , I numbered them 1 , 2, 3... bat no two is the first one on the set up to show drain...

Is my thinking correct ? If the system has charged all 3 batteries and only 1 is showing drain on the app then its a Series setup and the others kick in once the first battery ( no.2 ) is drained ?
 

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Raspy

Active member
I can't tell from your pictures, but it doesn't look like series wiring, from what I can tell. Series would mean the cabling was connected plus to minus and plus to minus at the batteries. It would also mean that instead of a 12 volt output at the inverter, with three batteries, you would have a 36 volt output as the voltages would add up.

To assure a more even power draw over a group of batteries in parallel, you would connect all the negative posts together and all the positive posts together. Then connect the feed wires with one at one end of the group on a negative post, and another at the other end of the group on a positive post. This would hold all batteries at the same level of charge and the voltage delivered would be 12 volts. Of course, the voltage is not exactly 12, but 12 is the category. The real measured voltage would be somewhere between 14.4 and about 12.5, depending on the load and charge rate, etc.

Series wiring adds the voltages. Three 12 volt batteries would deliver 36 volts (actually more like 42, as again, "12 volts" is a category, not an absolute number). Parallel wiring adds the amperages together. Three 100 Amp Hour batteries would deliver 300 AH at 12 volts.

Adjust your charging voltage with lithium batteries to not exceed 14.4 volts
 

landy66

Member
D13 Team... I just did the lithium battery upgrade... took out the big lead acid and replaced with 3 Li-Time 100ah.

  • did the inverter settings
  • installed the batteries using same wiring etc
  • hooked to power, all 3 batteries fully charged everything working.
The original wiring has all 3 batteries wired separately all joining at the inverter ... I assume this is called a "Series" set up ?

I have turned everything on that could be turned on and only 1 battery ( batt no 2 ) is showing as being used... the other two batteries ( no 1 & no 3 ) are not showing any drain...

Is this because it's in Series so Batt no 2 will drain then batt 1 or 3 will kick in next ?

I've attached images of the Li Time app showing the 3 batteries , I numbered them 1 , 2, 3... bat no two is the first one on the set up to show drain...

Is my thinking correct ? If the system has charged all 3 batteries and only 1 is showing drain on the app then its a Series setup and the others kick in once the first battery ( no.2 ) is drained ?
I have the same setup and see the same thing.... I thought it might be the BMS but could also be the way it's wired....
 

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