OBI Dweller Review and Discussion

rblitz

Member
A couple of random observations/questions.

1. This thing is pointless if it's supposed to tell me the level of my trailer.
20230327_121119.jpg

I have my trailer 100% level side-to-side, front-to-back and look at the bubbles. Why even bother with this or am I missing something about the purpose of this bubble level?

2) The two struts on the front storage compartment lid don't have enough resistance to hold the lid open. So why even have these? To prevent the lid from slamming shut?
20230326_111901.jpg

I'd like to come up with a way to prop the lid open. Anyone else come up with a solution for this?
 

Obsessed2findARuggedHybid

Well-known member
What hitch are you running? In my opinion 65 is fast enough but the problem I have found is if the speed limit is 80 truckers pass you like you standing still and on I 80 and other big freeways it never ends. Blow by every 2 minutes. It's almost safer to drive 70-75 mph.

It's just a bummer you all have to deal with this issue but at least you didn't buy a 165k rig that pulls like crap on the freeway.
 

rblitz

Member
It's the standard McHitch that comes with the OBi Dweller.

Agreed regarding semis; I'll have to change my driving style to purely defensive.;)
 

gendlert

Well-known member
A couple of random observations/questions.

1. This thing is pointless if it's supposed to tell me the level of my trailer.

2) The two struts on the front storage compartment lid don't have enough resistance to hold the lid open. So why even have these? To prevent the lid from slamming shut?

I'd like to come up with a way to prop the lid open. Anyone else come up with a solution for this?

1. I have a little magnetic level I stick to the back side of the rock shield by the propane tank and pull out every time we set up. I also found the trailer's level to be hilariously inaccurate. I didn't remove mine, though; I left it there because I didn't want the holes, but I don't use it.

2. Mine totally stays up with the struts. I'd ask OBI to send you a couple new gas struts; that's not right. My latches are what keep the lid closed.
 

rblitz

Member
1. I have a little magnetic level I stick to the back side of the rock shield by the propane tank and pull out every time we set up. I also found the trailer's level to be hilariously inaccurate. I didn't remove mine, though; I left it there because I didn't want the holes, but I don't use it.

2. Mine totally stays up with the struts. I'd ask OBI to send you a couple new gas struts; that's not right. My latches are what keep the lid closed.

Are they responsive to those kinds of requests? I'd think that most manufacturers would say "take the trailer to your dealer if it's under warranty".
I have only heard good things about mchitch. I assume any articulating hitch would have the same effect?
Yeah, I really like it; so easy to hitch up. I think it's just a problem with any fully articulating hitch in that is allows for freedom of travel around the center-line direction of travel; nothing is dampening the roll motion. It'd be nice if there were a "highway" mode on the hitch to "lock" that roll axis and have the tow vehicle absorb some of that energy.
 

WillySwan

Well-known member
1. This thing is pointless if it's supposed to tell me the level of my trailer.

1. Yes...pointless and worthless. Like @gendlert , I use a torpedo level with a magnetic base...works great.

2) The two struts on the front storage compartment lid don't have enough resistance to hold the lid open. So why even have these? To prevent the lid from slamming shut?

2. You certainly have a bad lift cylinder. My lid "springs open" when unlatched. One would hope that OBI would toss a couple of new struts in the mail to you. If OBI lets you down, the good new is that the sticker on the cylinder has all the information you need to source a replacement. 18mm outer body diameter, 370mm (14.6") extended length, 130mm (5.1") stroke, 260N (60lb) force.
 

rblitz

Member
1. Yes...pointless and worthless. Like @gendlert , I use a torpedo level with a magnetic base...works great.



2. You certainly have a bad lift cylinder. My lid "springs open" when unlatched. One would hope that OBI would toss a couple of new struts in the mail to you. If OBI lets you down, the good new is that the sticker on the cylinder has all the information you need to source a replacement. 18mm outer body diameter, 370mm (14.6") extended length, 130mm (5.1") stroke, 260N (60lb) force.
Thanks both.
I have a query out to OBi on the struts. I did track down those particular struts on the interwebs and looks like they're in the $60 price range.
 

tjtx

Member
It'd be nice if there were a "highway" mode on the hitch to "lock" that roll axis and have the tow vehicle absorb some of that energy.

I've yet to actually pickup our trailer yet, but it seems lots of people with the McHitch have combined it with a weight-distribution system which should provide some dampening of the roll axis as well as sway control, too.

Here's the ROA guys w/ a Black Series and a McHitch:

 

FordGuy1

Adventurer
I've yet to actually pickup our trailer yet, but it seems lots of people with the McHitch have combined it with a weight-distribution system which should provide some dampening of the roll axis as well as sway control, too.

Here's the ROA guys w/ a Black Series and a McHitch:

Now that I have towed with the McHitch, I really like how it tows. I don't think I would want to go back to a weight distribution set up unless the tow vehice can't handle the tongue weight.
 

rblitz

Member
I've yet to actually pickup our trailer yet, but it seems lots of people with the McHitch have combined it with a weight-distribution system which should provide some dampening of the roll axis as well as sway control, too.

Here's the ROA guys w/ a Black Series and a McHitch:

Thanks. Yes I had seen the ROA video on that and wasn't convinced that it would address roll. Sway itself is a pivoting at the hitch in a lateral direction (basically fishtailing.) My experience with the OBi has been very different: the rolling/rocking of the trailer is more of a vertical motion. Perhaps sway control would dampen some of that vertical motion because they attach farther back on the tongue. It also has the implication that to get your off-road articulation you'd need to hop out and remove the sway arms when your highway travel is over.
 

tjtx

Member
Perhaps sway control would dampen some of that vertical motion because they attach farther back on the tongue. It also has the implication that to get your off-road articulation you'd need to hop out and remove the sway arms when your highway travel is over.

Yeah, I really hated having to deal with the arms on previous trailers. I ordered the Monroe 66440's to swap since that seems to be a nice cheap option that a few others have tried on here. ROA seems to be using a Fox shock, which I suspect is the Fox 985-24-003, but they're roughly 4x the cost of the Monroes.
 

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