Offroad capability of full size truck

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hidn45

Member
If you use structural insulating panels you can eliminate the weight & expense of the aluminum frame, especially for a smaller, non-cabover habitat like you're planning. Search 'composite' for a number of excellent examples. Glue the panels together, some aluminum or pultruded angle to cover the corners, add a door - & Bob's yer Uncle....

Here's a good discussion on corner/ edge protection - https://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/custom-extrusions-for-frp-panels.229840/ ExPo members Peter-n-Margaret & their OKA composite panel camper have been around almost 20 years & are a valuable info resource.
 
O

Ozarker

Well-known member
As to a DIY build, "thermal bridging" issues are overrated.

Podcasts, like talk radio, listening to rag chewing by "experts" advocating for something they have no personal experience with.
 
C

crazysccrmd

Observer
Ozarker said:
As to a DIY build, "thermal bridging" issues are overrated.

Podcasts, like talk radio, listening to rag chewing by "experts" advocating for something they have no personal experience with.
Click to expand...

I wouldn’t say it’s overrated. If you can avoid it you should (especially if planning on below freezing use) but it’s not the end of the world.
 
R

reverse01134

New member
My biggest concern is condensation. My single wall stainless steel water bottle collects significant condensation immediately after filled with cold water in a room temperature. The idea of water dripping down the wall in the camper and potentially causing a mold issue is something I want to avoid at all costs. The honeycomb panel might work best for me. While it may not have a high R-value, it can prevent condensation and is readily available at an economical price. I still haven’t found a company selling foam panels only. I considered making my own panel but I’m not convinced that I can manage quality control.
 
A

andy_b

Well-known member
reverse01134 said:
My biggest concern is condensation. My single wall stainless steel water bottle collects significant condensation immediately after filled with cold water in a room temperature. The idea of water dripping down the wall in the camper and potentially causing a mold issue is something I want to avoid at all costs. The honeycomb panel might work best for me. While it may not have a high R-value, it can prevent condensation and is readily available at an economical price. I still haven’t found a company selling foam panels only. I considered making my own panel but I’m not convinced that I can manage quality control.
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I get the appeal of building *everything* yourself, but why not a composite body (that you fit out) from Boxmanufakturer, Total Composites, etc?
 
IdaSHO

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
If the camper will see any use below freezing, concerns about thermal bridging are far from overrated.

Here is a specific example of a wood framed camper, using 3/4x1-1/2 VG fir framing, 1/4 ply exterior skin, and 1/8 interior ply skins.'
This is at roughly 20 degrees F as I recall, and we typically keep the camper heated to 68-70 degrees F

You can clearly see the heat "escaping" thru the framing at the front of the cabover. Again, this is with wood, which is FAR better than any aluminum or steel framing.

52699583083_4ddf0ea0f1_b.jpg
 
Kingsize24

Kingsize24

Well-known member
AGREED. It does happen, but definitely over rated, and over stated. Build a box, fill it with dry heat, you will be fine.

Awesome truck BTW!
 
rruff

rruff

Explorer
reverse01134 said:
The main reason for considering custom build is lightweight and low CG. I see the possibility that I can build a 6'x8'x4.5' box shell (no cabover) weighing approximately at 500#. Carbon core honeycomb panels weigh 32lbs per 4x8 sheet. The square footage of the shell is 220sqft, so that's 220lbs and the estimated weight for the aluminum tubing frame is around 270lbs. Interior will add more weight but the truck bed weight will offset that. So in a nutshell, I might be able to achieve 500# dry weight of the camper. After adding the weight of gears and passengers, 1000# total payload could be possible!
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The best reason for going with a 1-ton is so you can easily carry 3-4k lb.

Also... I'd suggest realistically adding up all the stuff you think you'd carry. You mentioned remote work with your wife. That sounds like fairly long time periods to me, and if you are working that ups the ante further for comfort IMO... and weight. If you want your wife to enjoy this, you need to make damn sure she is comfortable! You will probably want Starlink... which means extra solar and batteries. The ability to stand and have a spacious and comfortable bed that is easy to get into and out of is important. There are major compromises involved, so you need to be very clear regarding what you want this to do well.

What weather conditions? What trail conditions? What part of the world and what time of year?

You seem too focused on "offroad capability" and "low CG". The difference in overall CG between a 54" tall shell and a 76" tall one is a pittance... because it is a ~200 lb roof compared to a 10,000 lb rig. So long as you avoid putting heavy stuff up high, you will be fine. In some places the tall roof might be a problem with tree branches, but there are ways to deal with that also... like not putting fragile things on the roof, and bringing a polesaw. Or get a popup.

If you have 4WD and good tires, you have good offroad capability for rig of this type. Lockers, winches, etc ... if you need them... no worries there.

Also... I wouldn't be shy about making your own foam-core panels with FRP skins. Build samples and test them til you are confident in your methods. If you find Dan Grec's channel he did some videos recently on using wet layup FG to join edges and I think that's a sensible way to go.
 
pappawheely

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
The perfect vehicle that does everything well probably doesn't exist. You need to build something that will serve your particular needs 80 percent of the time. Even that goal is not easy. In tight mountainous terrain a big lift and a long wheelbase is a nightmare. Out west in the silt or sand it's a blessing. A Florida truck will be completely different from one in Washington state. Weighing comfort with capability will always be the deciding factor. How much capability do you want compared to your comfort and self sustainability? Do you want hot meals and a comfortable bed or to sleep on the ground and eat non-refrigerated food? That's the real question.
 
C

calicamper

Expedition Leader
SDDiver5 said:
You'll be amazed what a full size truck can do with proper mods and an experienced driver. I started off roading in high school with the family Excursion (basically an F250) and was always amazed at what it could do. And yes, full size is the go to for overland campers because of large payload and plenty of space. Plenty of after market companies to support most mods, too

Disadvantage would be gas mileage, not being able to fit into starbucks parking lots as easily, and some aftermarket parts might be harder to find or not as many options as a 1/2 ton or mini truck.
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Gas mileage on a full sized might be better that a heavy / built jeep product. That might be a pleasant surprise.
 
C

calicamper

Expedition Leader
Your description of your non pavement type use makes me think nearly stock sized tires would be fine. Why destroy highway performance and mileage with over kill tires? I get that jeeps need 37’s for starbucks and dirt roads to popular trail heads. But full sized trucks do more challenging stuff on stock tires every day😆👍
 
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