Offroad Teardrop - SawTooth XL
- Thread starter stomperxj
- Start date
stomperxj
Explorer
Its not too hard to learn how Jim. It just takes some "seat time" to learn the basics. Lincoln and Miller both make really nice 110v machines that you can upgrade to coreless wire and run 100% CO2 like I do. I have a Miller 175 220v machine... The latest and greatest Lincoln and Millers (I think) allow you to just buy a spool gun so you are set up for aluminum too. You do have to run mix gas to do that though.1speed said:
Let me know if you have any questions... I'd be happy to answer any
Thanks for the encouragement. I was planning on buying a welder soon but am now in the process of buying a motorcycle, so the welder will have to wait a few months.
stomperxj said:Its not too hard to learn how Jim. It just takes some "seat time" to learn the basics. Lincoln and Miller both make really nice 110v machines that you can upgrade to coreless wire and run 100% CO2 like I do. I have a Miller 175 220v machine... The latest and greatest Lincoln and Millers (I think) allow you to just buy a spool gun so you are set up for aluminum too. You do have to run mix gas to do that though.
Let me know if you have any questions... I'd be happy to answer any
Capt Eddie
Adventurer
You have done a great job. And I know you want it to last a long time. I suggest that you use 3/4 treated plywood for the floor and treated plywood for the walls. I know you are far along ,but the OBS is going to delaminate in moist conditions. BC plywood is going to do the same thing. I built a work trailer with the same type of material that was scrap form a job I did. Even painting did not help. I just hate to see someone put so much time in a project and have problems. Even if you sheath it with something the water will get to the plywood.
GeoTracker90
Adventurer
stomperxj said:Thanks for the nice comments guys... I'm slowly making progress...
I got my stabilizer jacks and tongue jack in finally so I got those mounted tonight...
More to come this weekend...
Nicly done! If you don't mind me asking where did you source you stabilizer jacks and what does a pair like that cost?
I'm glad to see you're getting in some quality shop time. It does a guy good.
Mike
highlandercj-7
Explorer
IDK about using treaded plywood in a living area, but I would not use OSB either like el capitain said it will give you headaches later.
stomperxj
Explorer
Capt Eddie said:
highlandercj-7 said:
Capt Eddie and highlander-
The OSB side cutout you see is for mockup only. I am going to laminate my own walls from good quality plywood. Using treated ply in a living space is not recommended because of the chemicals off gassing over time. After the cabin is done, I am going to coat the whole trailer inside and out with marine grade epoxy, Kilz sealer/primer and a good exterior house paint. I'm also going to cover/seal all the exterior edges with aluminum RV edging and butyl tape or something like it... as far as the floor only being 1/2", I think it will be plenty sturdy after it is bolted down to the frame. My crossmembers are pretty close together....
Thanks for the constructive comments guys
it helps to have other sets of eyes checking your work... Hey Mike-GeoTracker90 said:
I ordered mine from Bish's RV in Idaho Falls. They didn't have them in stock so the had a place called Carters RV in Salt Lake drop ship them to me. I got the 31" set. You can go here to see the different models:
http://norcoind.com/bal/products/consumer/stabilizing_products/c-jack.shtml
I'm like you Mike, I can't live without shop time
Jess,
Check out this product, http://rotdoctor.com/test/penetration.html there is some discussion about it at www.mikenchell.com .
This is what I plan to use on mine when I re-do the exterior of my trailer.
Check out this product, http://rotdoctor.com/test/penetration.html there is some discussion about it at www.mikenchell.com .
This is what I plan to use on mine when I re-do the exterior of my trailer.
Capt Eddie
Adventurer
Treat the entire floor before you bolt it down. You Sherwin Williams DURATION paint. It is costly but worth every penny. Keep up the good work.
stomperxj
Explorer
Well I got the deck bolt holes all drilled and tapped and the fender wells glued and screwed this weekend. It was a complete PITA taking the decking/fenders back off the frame. Apparently Titebond III wood glue sticks to metal too....
Its coming along slowly. Next step is to get some shocks, button up some holes in the frame and then prime and paint all the steel and seal the bottom side of the wood...
Its coming along slowly. Next step is to get some shocks, button up some holes in the frame and then prime and paint all the steel and seal the bottom side of the wood...
Last edited:
spressomon
Expedition Leader
4Rescue said:
Times 2. Interesting. Great design, fabbing and execution!
Dan