Opinions on GMC
- Thread starter Bombsight
- Start date
Mine is a 3500 HD with the 6.6L Duramax and Allison. The power and torque are impressive both on and off road. The loaded performance up and down steep grades using Tow Mode and the exhaust brake keeps the vehicle well under control, very little need to use brakes. If you need more control off road for steep grades, 4 low is also very good. Mine also has the rear electronic locker. My truck and camper weighs in at just under 10,000 lbs and the off road, sand & mud, and snow performance is solid. This is my first diesel and I debated a long time about getting it over gas and glad I did. It's a really strong drive train for both road hauling/towing and off road driving even when heavy.
free radical
New member
G 80 locker is great IF you don't abuse it,,
I put 300K on my 2000 GMC Sierra 2WD without any problems,,deep snow ice got thru nicely,as long one doesn't abuse,,ie rev the krap outta it when stuck it will last..easy does it !
Bombsight
Observer
Much appriciated info. :clapping:
Montereyman
New member
It all depends on the model and engine and what you want to do. I bought the 2500HD as with the Duramax engine the truck is identical to the 3500HD SRW except for the latter having a second set of leaf springs. The 2500HD is available with the double/extended cab and the standard box - the 3500 is only available with the regular cab or the crew cab and with either the short box or the long box and either way the wheel base is 2 feet longer and the turning radius is a lot worse. I simply spent $450 on a set of double leaf SuperSprings which took me less than an hour to install. The truck had a GVWR of 11,000 lbs. and a payload rating of 2800 lbs., though with the addition of Supersprings it is now 4800 lbs. and can easily handles my 3400 lb. camper or anything else I put in the bed. The only way to get more towing capacity with the 3500 is to get DRW and that greatly limits where you can drive the truck.
It is educational to spend an hour on a dealer's lot and look at the different truck configurations and check the payload rating sticker in the glove box. Often two otherwise identical trucks but with different rims and tires will have a payload rating difference of more than 1,000 lbs. Usually it is the chrome low profile rims and tires that reduce the payload rating. These numbers are also based on the factory configuration and many aspects are easy to change. The only number that is hard and fast is the GCWR as it takes into account every part of the truck and the total load of truck and payload and trailer load that can be managed.
CAT scales are a great resource. For $10 you can weigh your truck and know how much weight is on the front and rear and then check the tires and know how much load you can carry with the stock vehicle. With my truck the weight on the rear axle when the bed is empty is 3200 lbs. and the stock tires had a load capacity of 2 x 3195 or 6390 lbs. leaving a payload of 6390-3200 or 3190 lbs. in the bed. I swapped out the factory tires for Nitto tires rated at 3750@80 PSI to gain an extra 1100 lbs. of load capacity at the rear axle.
The axles on all the current 3/4 to 1-ton trucks are rated at 10,900 lbs. or more. Subtract the weight of the truck at the rear and you are left with 7,700 lbs. of load capacity in terms of the axle and wheel bearings. The limiting factor is the rims and tires and the cheapest fix at the factory is to add two more wheels with DRW. With SRW an option is 19.5 rims and tires to get 8800 lbs. of load capacity at the rear. I went the least expensive route by putting the Nitto tires on the factory rims.
The GM has one of the stiffest frames and it shows when there is a heavy camper in the bed. What needs to be understood is that in a turn or on sloping ground more than 50% of the camper's weight will be on one side of the truck and supported by the leaf springs and tire on that side. A lot of sway is the result of the springs or tires not being adequate to support the load in this circumstances.
I look at Montereyman's calculations and that's exactly why I went with the 3500. I knew exactly what I was getting without mods which is what I wanted. Reliability was a major factor for me and think anytime you start to add mods, you increase the odds of introducing failure points. The Chevy's/GMC's have a placard in the glove compartment stating maximum camper weight and CG limit for that weight recommended by the manufacturer. I drove my truck off the lot, put a spray in liner in the bed, and put a camper in the back without doing anything additional to the truck.
Last edited:
Bombsight
Observer
.... & thats the way it should be. One day soon I will do the same.
On another note ... I was told that the long torsion bars we see under some lifted trucks are not needed on all models. I was informed that only the Z71 models require the long "rods" running from the swing arm area back towards mid-cab underneath.
Is this true?
What, if any advantages, are there to these ugly things?
Will a 6.5" BDS lift on a 2015-16 non-Z71 require these?
Buliwyf
Viking with a Hammer
The front suspension torsion springs? The BDS kit doesn't lower them like those other kits. They attach to the top of the lower arm and use the stock mounting location on the frame. Works great. Less ugly.
rotti
Adventurer
I'll second the stiff frame and the value of the locking G80 rear axle.
Mine has got a workout and has performed great.
Bombsight
Observer
My sentiments exactly. I cant understand why anyone would want anthing less. When those torsion bars are visable like the Pro Comps are, it defeats the purpose of lifting the truck.
Thanks for the BDS confirmation. o
chilliwak
Expedition Leader
I use BDS on both my trucks. There is no better warranty out there and the stuff is good quality without spending majot coin. Lets see some pics of your truck Bomb!:wings:
Bombsight
Observer
I'll be posting some come July or August. Thanks
Similar threads
