Out of state $$
- Thread starter gambrinus
- Start date
ExploringNH
Explorer
I've bought and sold several vehicles that required shipping. Most were sold without an in-person inspection. I could really write a book on this sort of thing, but Ill try to keep it short. Any questions, feel free to PM me.
Usually in a situation like this you end up talking to the person over the phone or email multiple times before the exchange of funds. Through these conversations you should be able to get a feel for the transaction. If it doesn't feel right, walk away or require cash in person.
If it feels like a good deal with a decent person, you need to get as much contact info for the person as possible and try to verify it. Get a phone number and talk to them on it. Get an email and email them through it. Try to get a work email or other verifiable address. Anyone can register an email at yahoo or gmail, but not too many people have access to an @initech.com email. If you get a company email, google search the company, see if their name on the company roster matches up. Google their email address(es) and see what comes up. Reverse lookup their phone number. It sounds like a lot of work, but it really only takes a few minutes. You want to make sure you are dealing with a normal, real, person that has something to lose by scamming. If you find out that the phone number is a TracFone and the emails are throwaways, then you have a right to be nervous.
If I am the seller I try to get as much of the money up front as possible. I will settle for 50% up front at the end of the day. Remember, the buyer wants to protect himself as well. That first payment will be a leap of faith. Write up a bill of sale and make a note that $xx.xx of $xx.xx has been received. You want to document everything as much as possible. Anything related to the deal, do in email so you have a record of it. If he calls you to tell you that the money has been sent, just politely ask for him to copy that information to you in an email. It is a lot easier to search emails for dates and amounts than it is to recall phone conversations. It is also a lot easier for police to believe if you have it all in writing.
Try to get a bank check drawn on a bank that is common to both of you. Cash the check at your local branch. If necessary, call the bank that it is drawn on and try to verify it's legitimacy. Due to privacy concerns, they may not tell you much, but with some thinking, you can figure out a way to verify
. After the money has arrived and cleared, they are free to arrange shipping. Usually I will tell the buyer to start arranging shipping as soon as I receive the money since it takes some time to find an available driver for the route (it all goes through brokers). Be sure to make it clear to the buyer that although they can arrange shipping, make sure the driver doesn't show up until you have the funds cleared. The shipping company will meet you at your location (usually 2 days before or after they say they will be there) and load up the vehicle. They go around the car and scribble all over the paperwork noting existing damages.
I will continue to hold the title to the vehicle at this point.
Usually I get a photo of the vehicle loaded up on the trailer and email it to the buyer. Some time later, the vehicle will arrive at the buyer's residence. After his inspection, he will send the remainder of the money. I will mail the title and final bill of sale after that money has cleared.
If the first money doesn't clear, don't ship the vehicle. If the second money fails to clear and you can't resolve with the buyer, report the car stolen and inform the authorities of the situation. This is where your diligence on keeping accurate records comes in. The more you have proving your story, the better off you are. Keep insurance on the car until the final money has cleared and the deal has been complete for a couple of weeks.
Usually in a situation like this you end up talking to the person over the phone or email multiple times before the exchange of funds. Through these conversations you should be able to get a feel for the transaction. If it doesn't feel right, walk away or require cash in person.
If it feels like a good deal with a decent person, you need to get as much contact info for the person as possible and try to verify it. Get a phone number and talk to them on it. Get an email and email them through it. Try to get a work email or other verifiable address. Anyone can register an email at yahoo or gmail, but not too many people have access to an @initech.com email. If you get a company email, google search the company, see if their name on the company roster matches up. Google their email address(es) and see what comes up. Reverse lookup their phone number. It sounds like a lot of work, but it really only takes a few minutes. You want to make sure you are dealing with a normal, real, person that has something to lose by scamming. If you find out that the phone number is a TracFone and the emails are throwaways, then you have a right to be nervous.
If I am the seller I try to get as much of the money up front as possible. I will settle for 50% up front at the end of the day. Remember, the buyer wants to protect himself as well. That first payment will be a leap of faith. Write up a bill of sale and make a note that $xx.xx of $xx.xx has been received. You want to document everything as much as possible. Anything related to the deal, do in email so you have a record of it. If he calls you to tell you that the money has been sent, just politely ask for him to copy that information to you in an email. It is a lot easier to search emails for dates and amounts than it is to recall phone conversations. It is also a lot easier for police to believe if you have it all in writing.
Try to get a bank check drawn on a bank that is common to both of you. Cash the check at your local branch. If necessary, call the bank that it is drawn on and try to verify it's legitimacy. Due to privacy concerns, they may not tell you much, but with some thinking, you can figure out a way to verify
. After the money has arrived and cleared, they are free to arrange shipping. Usually I will tell the buyer to start arranging shipping as soon as I receive the money since it takes some time to find an available driver for the route (it all goes through brokers). Be sure to make it clear to the buyer that although they can arrange shipping, make sure the driver doesn't show up until you have the funds cleared. The shipping company will meet you at your location (usually 2 days before or after they say they will be there) and load up the vehicle. They go around the car and scribble all over the paperwork noting existing damages. I will continue to hold the title to the vehicle at this point.
Usually I get a photo of the vehicle loaded up on the trailer and email it to the buyer. Some time later, the vehicle will arrive at the buyer's residence. After his inspection, he will send the remainder of the money. I will mail the title and final bill of sale after that money has cleared.
If the first money doesn't clear, don't ship the vehicle. If the second money fails to clear and you can't resolve with the buyer, report the car stolen and inform the authorities of the situation. This is where your diligence on keeping accurate records comes in. The more you have proving your story, the better off you are. Keep insurance on the car until the final money has cleared and the deal has been complete for a couple of weeks.
Last edited:
arcteryx
Adventurer
@ExploringNH- That is a pretty good way to do things, strictly virtual.
I on the other hand do it in person. I have bought 2 vehicles from half way across the country. After numerous phone calls and emails with lots of pics, I buy a 1 way ticket and coordinate with the buyer for pickup. If I like it, I purchase it. If not, I am fully prepared to purchase a 1 way ticket back. I am 2 for 2 on purchases though. If I didnt feel good about it, I would not have bought the airfare. MOney is done via USPS money orders. You can call your bank and have them up the limit for what you need for debit only for that day. I and the seller go in person and purchase x $1000 money orders, so they feel comfortable with the transaction and know they are not fake. And I dont have to carry a wad of cash.
I have also had a trusted person (father) act in my stead. He fronted the cash and received the title and I arranged shipping via uship. I then reimburses him. It worked great. There is also a friend who has gone and purchased vehicles for people. He is retired so he is somewhat flexible. Again, 1 way ticket. He checks it out. If it passes muster, the friend tells the buyer to wire the funds to the seller. Then the friend drives the vehicle back. All expenses paid by the seller, which are less than a shipper believe it or not.
Anyway, those are two options. I am not sure if there is a service or not.
I on the other hand do it in person. I have bought 2 vehicles from half way across the country. After numerous phone calls and emails with lots of pics, I buy a 1 way ticket and coordinate with the buyer for pickup. If I like it, I purchase it. If not, I am fully prepared to purchase a 1 way ticket back. I am 2 for 2 on purchases though. If I didnt feel good about it, I would not have bought the airfare. MOney is done via USPS money orders. You can call your bank and have them up the limit for what you need for debit only for that day. I and the seller go in person and purchase x $1000 money orders, so they feel comfortable with the transaction and know they are not fake. And I dont have to carry a wad of cash.
I have also had a trusted person (father) act in my stead. He fronted the cash and received the title and I arranged shipping via uship. I then reimburses him. It worked great. There is also a friend who has gone and purchased vehicles for people. He is retired so he is somewhat flexible. Again, 1 way ticket. He checks it out. If it passes muster, the friend tells the buyer to wire the funds to the seller. Then the friend drives the vehicle back. All expenses paid by the seller, which are less than a shipper believe it or not.
Anyway, those are two options. I am not sure if there is a service or not.
I have bought and sold several vehicles via the internet and shipped them, had them shipped. My suggestions:
1) if possible, have the money wired to your bank account. Banks ususally charge a nominal amount and they will facilitate the transaction.
2) If necessary/appropriate (ie take the car off the market) take a non-refundable deposit ($500-1000) via pay pal.
3) If they are paying by check, at a minimum only accept checks drawn on FDIC insured banks, and get the funds verified (you can call the bank) before releasing the car. Preferrably get a cashiers check drawn on a FDIC bank and again, verify funds. You can get a fax from the bank that the check is drawn on, or document the name and number of the person you talked to.
4) Send a copy of the title to the purchaser prior to receiving the check so they can validate the VIN, do a CARFAX, etc.
5) Write a bill of sale documenting all of the pertinent details, vehicle description, VIN, owner, owner's address & phone number, purchaser, purchaser's address and phone number, price (deposits), etc. etc. The more details the better. Get the bill of sale signed first. You'll have to sign the title too before it can be transferred.
Just some thoughts.
1) if possible, have the money wired to your bank account. Banks ususally charge a nominal amount and they will facilitate the transaction.
2) If necessary/appropriate (ie take the car off the market) take a non-refundable deposit ($500-1000) via pay pal.
3) If they are paying by check, at a minimum only accept checks drawn on FDIC insured banks, and get the funds verified (you can call the bank) before releasing the car. Preferrably get a cashiers check drawn on a FDIC bank and again, verify funds. You can get a fax from the bank that the check is drawn on, or document the name and number of the person you talked to.
4) Send a copy of the title to the purchaser prior to receiving the check so they can validate the VIN, do a CARFAX, etc.
5) Write a bill of sale documenting all of the pertinent details, vehicle description, VIN, owner, owner's address & phone number, purchaser, purchaser's address and phone number, price (deposits), etc. etc. The more details the better. Get the bill of sale signed first. You'll have to sign the title too before it can be transferred.
Just some thoughts.
DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
So true, the phone conversation is huge. I've been burned once but the good transactions FAR outweight the one bad. There is escrow.com if there is some question but I think a few minutes on the phone can give you a lot of insight.
bobtail4x4
Adventurer
either go in person and pay cash,
or do you have a trusted friend close by who can do the same,
no way would I pay half for a car I dont have possession of, or let a car go with only half the money.
or do you have a trusted friend close by who can do the same,
no way would I pay half for a car I dont have possession of, or let a car go with only half the money.