Overland Sprinter Build

luthj

Engineer In Residence
Thanks! It has turned out pretty good. A few finishing touches and hopefully it will be ready for a nice long shakedown. All I need is a about 800lbs of gear and some great places to visit. :victory:

I really like the BFGs so far. The taller sidewall and softer rubber compound is noticeable in the steering feel. They still track great on the highway, and are definitely smoother than the commercial traction tires they replaced. Amazingly they are not noticeably louder than the original set.

With the tires, lift, and solar panels it gets lots of looks. High roof camper vans are very rare around these parts so its to be expected.
 

ucs308

Observer
I am interested in the Induction cooktop. Do you plan to use only when the engine is running? Or do you have enough power on-boad to use without engine. If so how long will can you run it for. Great build.. and very nice - useful - photographs.
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
I am interested in the Induction cooktop. Do you plan to use only when the engine is running? Or do you have enough power on-boad to use without engine. If so how long will can you run it for. Great build.. and very nice - useful - photographs.

The induction cooktop can be used whenever we want.
No need to run the engine. I have a 510AH battery bank and inverter. So as long as the batteries about 40% SOC I can run the cooktop. Alternatively I can start the engine and use alternator to supply most of the cooktops needs. The cooktop uses about 10-25AH to cook a meal (can easily be more though). Boiling water and heating a large skillet for grilling used the most AHs.

Properly designed a 2000W inverter and 250AH batttery bank can run an induction cooktop. The major consideration for regular cooktop use is if you have enough charging. Assuming we use the cooktop twice a day. The total AHs consumed will be around 30. I have 600W of solar, so on a sunny day I have nothing to worry about. I also have a high capacity alternator and charging system, so I can also get good charging from the engine when its running.

For most people I suggest doing an AH/energy budget. Some folks are so frugal that running an induction cooktop for one meal a day is easily done with 200W of solar, and the occasional drive.

This thread over on the sprinter source has details on my electrical system, AH budget etc. I have a PDF attached to one of the early posts which has the energy budget I believe.
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php? t=36885

Here is part of my initial energy budget for reference. Obviously we are pretty heavy power users.

Electrical Budget Revised by J Luth, on Flickr
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
I am interested in the Induction cooktop. Do you plan to use only when the engine is running? Or do you have enough power on-boad to use without engine. If so how long will can you run it for. Great build.. and very nice - useful - photographs.

Thanks. Always helps to know that someone else is benefiting from the insanity. :********:
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
Last minute finishing touches are going well. We are going to make the drive to Overland Expo next week, so the van needs to be more or less functional.

The mattress has been re-laminated, and covers sewn. The buildup is 1” gel cooling memory foam, 2” of high density memory foam, and 4” of high density normal foam. 7” total height. It is very comfortable.


The bench seat cushions are done as well. Looking back, I should have used a higher density foam. Maybe it will get redone in a few years… Maybe.



A temporary table has been made up. I am considering fold out hinges. The goal is to use left-over countertop material.





Slowly getting pulls for the cabinets installed. Jen selected some interesting pieces.



I had a couple of hours free so I knocked out a footrest for the passenger side.





I finished the wiring for the heater bypass valve, so I tested it today on my drive to work. My commute is 12 minutes. From a cold start to parking the van the water tank went from ~60F to over 120F. After work it was still warm enough to shower in. I am hoping at full temp it will stay warm overnight.

Still left on the TO DO list.
  • Shim bed platform to eliminate rattles
  • Fix ANNOYING squeaking from the rear door.
  • Wire up circulation fans (bed and front cabin)
  • Install switches and wire galley and underbody lights
  • Install reading lights above bed
  • Select and mount a small monitor/TV at the foot of the bed
  • Design/build drawers for the rear access storage
  • Make curtains and bed sheets
  • Design/make bug screen for sliding door
  • Design/build interior shower curtain support
  • Select and purchase tons of gear and equipment
  • At least 20 things I have forgotten (probably to save my sanity)
 

Haf-E

Expedition Leader
I've had the rear door squeak several times and found that there is a stop block on the inside at the top that can be adjusted to reduce movement which helps - as it wears it needs to be moved slightly. Another solution is to spray the rubber gasket with silicone spray and then close the door overnight - open it in the morning and wipe it down - works for me.

I've also used an AC induction cooktop - both a 1500W and an small 800W one - my battery is pretty large (600AH @12V but nearly 10 years old - sealed AGM lead acid "concordes") and it has worked well even with the engine off. Usually its just for making eggs or similar - so 10 minutes or so? We use an electric kettle often during the day which is 1500 watts but only takes about 3 minutes. I also have an alcohol stove (Oringo) that I use if needed for something that needs to simmer a long time. Its nice to be propane free when you are using the ferry system here in the PNW.
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
I've had the rear door squeak several times and found that there is a stop block on the inside at the top that can be adjusted to reduce movement which helps - as it wears it needs to be moved slightly. Another solution is to spray the rubber gasket with silicone spray and then close the door overnight - open it in the morning and wipe it down - works for me.

I've also used an AC induction cooktop - both a 1500W and an small 800W one - my battery is pretty large (600AH @12V but nearly 10 years old - sealed AGM lead acid "concordes") and it has worked well even with the engine off. Usually its just for making eggs or similar - so 10 minutes or so? We use an electric kettle often during the day which is 1500 watts but only takes about 3 minutes. I also have an alcohol stove (Oringo) that I use if needed for something that needs to simmer a long time. Its nice to be propane free when you are using the ferry system here in the PNW.

Thanks for the tips. I have adjusted the door stops at the top, and that did help some. I will give the seals a good lube to see if it reduces the noise. It seems to come and go randomly. Its been raining on and off, so that may have something too do with it.

Most of our meals are fairly simple/short. We do have a portable stove we can use outside, so that's our go-to choice for long meals. I have found that wrapping some high temp insulation around the pot/pan when using the induction unit reduces the power needed for a long simmer/boil.
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
Here is a photo of our awesome campsite at Overland Expo. Full writeup on the shakedown to come. Been fantastic thus far. My expectations have been exceeded. And once again I am reminded why the only person I trust to work on my vehicles is myself.

 
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luthj

Engineer In Residence
I took a couple of hours today and tried to hack the sprinter back together after a deer strike last night.





The light housing is trashed. The harness for the HID lights is broken as well. The bumper cover brackets are MIA, and the ambient pressure sensor broke off the airbox.







I unbolted most of the fender bolts, and rigged up a puller using a nearby tree. (Can you say Redneck ingenuity anyone?)




I was able to get the panel to some facsimile of the original contour. The inner structure (part of the fender) to which the light housing and radiator cross support attach is badly distorted.

The intercooler end fitting was dented. Had the deer (a small one!) hit even 6 inches to the left, the van may have been disabled. There is so little structure up front its laughable!



Surprisingly all the broken bits (except the bumper cover bracket) are available aftermarket. Shipping is killer on the bumper cover though.

South Texas Outfitters who supplied Mikey's sprinter front bumper (sticky thread on this forum) quoted me ~$1900 for a bumper/guard. I am considering going that route after this incident. :eek:
 
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86scotty

Cynic
Very nice work. Sorry about the dose of reality (deer strike) to dampen your previous high spirits. Forest Gump said it best.

Thanks for all the great pics. Great stuff!
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
Post Shakedown report.

TL;DR
Tons of fun, extremely satisfying. Revealed some weaknesses that need to be addressed, and reminded us of why we enjoy van travel so much.

Cabinets:
Awesome, rattle free, easy to use overall. The galley drawers need latches, the cookware is just too heavy for the soft close slides. The large vertical cabinet needs mods to the doors. They rattle, and are annoying to use.

I need to devise a table that is usable with the passenger seat swiveled. It is proving challenging.

Electrical:
No fires or smoke (as expected). The alternator and solar supplied ample power. The cooktop used 25AH on the longest meal using both burners. The batteries never dropped below 80% SOC. It was cool overnight, so the fridge didn't use much power though.

Water system:
Essentially flawless. No leaks or odd tastes. 30 minutes of driving is enough to completely heat the hot water tank. It stays warm for over 36 hours! Extrapolating out, even at 48 hours it would be warm enough to shower. I need to find a better shower wand with an integral stop/start valve. The water level gauge may need calibrated. To be investigated further. The 40 gallon tank is enough for 7 days or liberal use.

Chassis
Plenty of power; even at about 750lbs under gross the van has no trouble climbing mountain passes. The suspension is acceptable (it is a commercial truck), some dialing in of the tire pressures is needed.

Strong cross winds are annoying. They cause some body rocking. While handing is fairly solid (for a 9ft tall vehicle) there is room for improvement.

Backroads traction was superb. I had no issue with light mud, washouts, and moderate grades. The resonate side to side body rocking was an issue. When hitting non-orthogonal dips/bumps at the right angle the body will rock violently for 3-5 oscillations. There is room for improvement here as well. Stiffer shocks most likely. The VanCompass Guys have some Fox shock kits for the early sprinters. I may go that route.

The turn signal relay started going on the fritz. I need to dig into the fuse block to diagnose.

The AC head unit started acting up again. (AC doesn't work without restart). Last time it did this there was cracked solder joints on the clutch control relay. So once more I need to disassemble the console… The AC is also a bit anemic. (It was fine on this trip due to low temps). The air at the vents is only ~53F. I am going to clean the condenser to see if it improves. If not I may have too high of a charge.

Fuel economy was around 16.5-17mpg for the trip. I was expecting 18-19. (I am compensating for the tires.) There were some brutal headwinds though. And I am sure driving at 75mph and the A/T tires don't help any either… I may end up getting a GDE tune. 5-10% MPG improvements are possible. Maybe I am just being unrealistic for an 8000lb 9ft tall box?

Finally, I am reminded just how fragile the sprinter front end is. Need to remedy this before shipping to a country filled with kangaroos and emus.



And here is some photos.







 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
Had a few days downtime to work on the van. Being bored I started beating the front end back together. While I was at it I cleaned and de-rocked the condenser and cooling pack.











While cleaning the solar array I noticed cracking on about 5-10% of the cells. Somewhat disconcerting given their age… The array still makes around 450W in full sun, so the output hasn’t been affected dramatically yet.





I also removed the main fuse block to attempt a repair of the intermittent turn signal issue. It turns out several of the relay contacts in the block were corroded. Though this was not the cause of my issue. Instead the spring/pinch contact for the turn signal relay had a stress crack, and would not firmly grip the relay leg. Some work with the soldering iron had it functioning again. I have a spare FB1 on order just in case.





I then rewarded myself with a few hours of hammock time.

 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
I was able to repair the deer damage with just a headlight assembly. 120$ from Rockauto, and it appears to be very good quality. Side by side I cannot tell the aftermarket unit from the OEM. I still need to find a wall and level location to adjust the headlight alignment. I am sure it will be off due to the deformation of the lower mount. It's not perfect, but from 10 feet it isn't noticeable. Now I have one clear and one yellow headlight. Time to clean up the other one I guess.











I ordered a steel “bumper” from South Texas outfitters. It's not quite my look, but it will definitely stop wildlife intrusion into the engine compartment with schedule 40 pipe guards.

I also mounted a pair of fans in the van. One is mounted above the galley where it can swivel to cover much of the cab. The other is mounted on the driver's side of the bed.

Here is the forward unit.
http://amzn.to/1Y3q241

Here is the aft unit. The timer feature is fantastic for sleeping.
http://amzn.to/20UfCCD







I took the van into to correct the alignment (steering wheel wasn't straight). Of course the shop tells me the ball joints are “toast” and that the inner tie rods are also bad. Despite showing them the Daimler TSB they still wouldn't believe me that unloaded play is normal. I will pull the boots to check the inner tie rods, but there is no noticeable play… I am betting they are fine, especially considering the van has 110k miles… In addition, the slow leaks at the tires were supposedly at the beads. They found some “light corrosion” on the sealing surface. Why they didn't notice and fix it when the mounted the tires 2 weeks ago is beyond me. Earnest guys, but they will not be working on my cars again.
 

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