Overland XJ Build. Not my first Rodeo.....(video included)
- Thread starter Overland History
- Start date
elliottblackwood
Adventurer
I've never seen one of those footwell water containers. Do they make a lot of noise while out on the trail?
Overland History
Wanderluster
I'm glad you asked that, because I asked myself the same question. Gear oil, which is in my front and rear axles, as well as my transmission(I've got a Manual AX-15), is extremely dense. For example, 80w90 gear oil is as thick as syrup, and maybe a little bit thinner when warm. The Fluid that would be the most thin would be the T-case, which takes ATF. Being that the breather tubes are mounted low from the factory and don't have a filter on them from the factory, I really don't see a problem in introducing them into the airbox PRE-air filter element, that way it will reduce the vacuum on the lines.
Another thought, is that the axles, transfer case and Transmission aren't filled to the top with oil. Sure, under load they sling oil within themselves for lubrication, but I highly doubt that's enough to draw oil up an extended breather tube.
It will be very obvious in short order if I'm drawing oil from any of the aforementioned systems and into the airbox. If I experience any of that, I'll certainly let you all know, but again, I highly doubt it's going to be an issue.
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Overland History
Wanderluster
That's a good question. On their website, they of course advise you to strap the tank down with ratchet straps, but I'll certainly secure it being that it will reside underneath my sleep platform. In regards to sloshing when off-camber, I can't imagine it's too much of an issue unless the tank is low on water and/or you're on a super rough trail.
The filler cap on the tank has a metal chain and retainer so the cap doesn't detach from the tank, but I also foresee a problem with the vent hole on the filler cap.
If I'm off-camber, the tank will likely overflow out of the breather. When I build my sleeping platform in the back of the XJ, I'll extend the filler neck upwards to compensate for the possible sloshing that will happen during off-camber situations.
elliottblackwood
Adventurer
^Thanks for the detailed response. I've got a sleeping/storage platform in the WJ so this would be a nice addition. Would simply have to modify the legs a bit. This looks like a more efficient alternative to buying rotopax tanks and mounts.
I'm glad you asked that, because I asked myself the same question. Gear oil, which is in my front and rear axles, as well as my transmission(I've got a Manual AX-15), is extremely dense. For example, 80w90 gear oil is as thick as syrup, and maybe a little bit thinner when warm. The Fluid that would be the most thin would be the T-case, which takes ATF. Being that the breather tubes are mounted low from the factory and don't have a filter on them from the factory, I really don't see a problem in introducing them into the airbox PRE-air filter element, that way it will reduce the vacuum on the lines.
Another thought, is that the axles, transfer case and Transmission aren't filled to the top with oil. Sure, under load they sling oil within themselves for lubrication, but I highly doubt that's enough to draw oil up an extended breather tube.
It will be very obvious in short order if I'm drawing oil from any of the aforementioned systems and into the airbox. If I experience any of that, I'll certainly let you all know, but again, I highly doubt it's going to be an issue.
If you decide to get aftermarket diff. covers that make it possible to overfill the diffs, all the excess fluid is going to get pumped out of the breathers. Ask me how I know...
Kevin108
Explorer
I too think that it's possible for the airbox will be in a vacuum, especially at WOT. This may turn the breather tubes into straws, sucking your ATF and 80w90 into the airbox.
I'm also one who thinks no one else should tell you what to do with your build. Try it out. If it works, awesome. If you wind up with an oily air box, you're only out $5 or so for some degreaser and an hour or so to come up with a new plan.
Overland History
Wanderluster
I'll be giving it a try shortly and will post up my findings, including WOT tests.
Anyways, I wanted to make an edit to my Snorkel Install(which I'll go back and add to the original post), but one thing I did want to let you all know that's important to the install, should anyone be going the route that I did, is the 4in hole that I cut in front of the ECU was bare metal, which the Flexible air tube was bending around. I purchased some "Automotive Door Edge Guard" to wrap on the metal to keep the tube from chaffing due to vibration over time.
I attempted to get it to bend enough to go around the 4in hole circumference, but it proved too tough. I ended up cutting it into 3 pieces and using epoxy at the ends of the cut areas to keep it in place....
Anyways, I wanted to make an edit to my Snorkel Install(which I'll go back and add to the original post), but one thing I did want to let you all know that's important to the install, should anyone be going the route that I did, is the 4in hole that I cut in front of the ECU was bare metal, which the Flexible air tube was bending around. I purchased some "Automotive Door Edge Guard" to wrap on the metal to keep the tube from chaffing due to vibration over time.
I attempted to get it to bend enough to go around the 4in hole circumference, but it proved too tough. I ended up cutting it into 3 pieces and using epoxy at the ends of the cut areas to keep it in place....
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Overland History
Wanderluster
Also, I pulled my rear axle that I picked up from a buddy for a song out of his old Jeep and started prepping it. It's a D35 out of an '86 XJ, it's got factory 4.10's and a Lockright, best part being is it's a non C-clip axle! If I ever break a shaft, it won't walk out of the axle tube on me! Honestly, I go pretty easy on the skinny pedal off-road, so I don't really expect to snap a shaft with just 31in tires. I really can't justify the extra cost of a D44, but if I stumble upon one that's reasonable, I'll scoop it up quick!
I'm doing all new rear brake shoes, hardware and cylinders. My plan for a disc brake swap comes later! I'm also doing brand new wheel bearings for peace of mind.
I'm doing all new rear brake shoes, hardware and cylinders. My plan for a disc brake swap comes later! I'm also doing brand new wheel bearings for peace of mind.
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EugeneTheTJ
Tar Heel
First time I've ever seen anyone swap in a turdy-five
Overland History
Wanderluster
It's a lateral move, really. The current Chrysler 8.25 that's under my Jeep now has 27 spline shafts, as does the D35 that I'm swapping in. I would be spending more than double to do gears and a locker in my 8.25 than what I paid for the entire D35.
Thanks for the sarcasm, though.
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cdn_xj
Observer
I'm glad you asked that, because I asked myself the same question. Gear oil, which is in my front and rear axles, as well as my transmission(I've got a Manual AX-15), is extremely dense. For example, 80w90 gear oil is as thick as syrup, and maybe a little bit thinner when warm. The Fluid that would be the most thin would be the T-case, which takes ATF. Being that the breather tubes are mounted low from the factory and don't have a filter on them from the factory, I really don't see a problem in introducing them into the airbox PRE-air filter element, that way it will reduce the vacuum on the lines.
Another thought, is that the axles, transfer case and Transmission aren't filled to the top with oil. Sure, under load they sling oil within themselves for lubrication, but I highly doubt that's enough to draw oil up an extended breather tube.
It will be very obvious in short order if I'm drawing oil from any of the aforementioned systems and into the airbox. If I experience any of that, I'll certainly let you all know, but again, I highly doubt it's going to be an issue.
An alternative would be to route the breather hoses all the way up to the snorkle intake. For this, rather than running them through the airbox and snorkle, it would probably be easier (and more adviseable) to route them up the firewall and out through either the cowl or the driver's front fender at the A-pillar and then just zapstrap them to the neck of the snorkle.
This way, in the event of any incident that would cause the oil to egress out of the breather (and for that to happen you're either got some serious pressurization issues or you're upside down) the oil winds up on the outside.
Overland History
Wanderluster
I kicked around the thought of running them alongside of the Snorkel, but cosmetically it would be a bit of an eyesore. I would consider it to be a last resort, if running them into the airbox fails. If I ran the f/r axles, t-case and Trans into one line and ran that up the Snorkel it wouldn't be as bad. I'm stubborn and still not convinced that it will draw oil into the airbox, even after conferring with a couple of old Mechanic colleagues and a few friends whom are Engineers that don't believe it will be an issue.
cdn_xj
Observer
That's what I was leading to. I guess I should have been more explicit.
You would want the breather hose to sit where the snorkle and a-pillar run alongside each other. Probably on the back-side of the snorkle so it's well shielded from branches, etc.
onemanarmy
Explorer
Deep water in an XJ is troublesome.
The alternator does not like it, and sits low in the engine bay.
I've had issues with that just hitting deeper puddles on the road after a rain.
Like the build, and really like sticking with the 'poverty pack' wheels...I think they look the must rugged and fit the utilitarian look of the Cherokee just right.
The alternator does not like it, and sits low in the engine bay.
I've had issues with that just hitting deeper puddles on the road after a rain.
Like the build, and really like sticking with the 'poverty pack' wheels...I think they look the must rugged and fit the utilitarian look of the Cherokee just right.