Overlandtowater’s solid axle suburban

[Overlandtowater]

looking at it appears there another one on top. I assume its the passenger blend door by looking at the enterwebs.

 

[Overlandtowater]

passenger actuator seems to be working...

 

[Overlandtowater]

driver side actuator seems good too.

 

[rayra]

started messing with the HVAC actuators this after noon. My symptoms are well was before I drilled the condenser, was driver side would blow cool, driver side hot, rear super cold....

I pulled the actuator on the bottom and it turns but only with the passenger side controls is that correct? I pulled it and separated the case and every thing looks good no cracks or busts.

My question is there another actuator for the passenger side?

2003-up there's one by the outside of the driver's right knee, controls temp mix for driver zone. There's one on the top of the trans hump on the passenger side, that's temp mix for the front passenger zone. Those are your separately controllable zone controls.
There's another in the low back center of the dash that requires dash removal to get to, it's the defroster/windshield or floor/heat vent.

The rear is a separate heat / cold exchanger behind the passenger side cargo side panel, but it's a common loop. If the back is cold but a front side is hot, that means your freon, compressor, condensor, etc are all good. And that whichever front side is hot (despite a cold setting) has a bad, failed, or maladjusted actuator.

 

[Overlandtowater]

Thanks Rayra. before I put the hole in the condenser it was not cooling the passenger side but it appears the actuators are working as they should though.

EDIT: my wife says it would not cool the driver or the passenger but I remember different.

 

[rayra]

well if one side of the front blows cold and the other doesn't, it has to be the actuator or the blend door it is connected to. It's a pain in the ass but try swapping the actuators. They're the same part. If the warm remains on the same side, then it's most likely that the door/shaft that the actuator drives is itself broken. If the problem moves with the actuator then it has to be the actuator even if it seems mechanically sound. It is after all electrically / solenoid driven. If you swap and the passenger side starts working then you know the computer and control circuitry / wiring is ok, too.

 

[Overlandtowater]

Thanys Rayra, You got that right its a pain in the but, I watched a couple of videos of people hacking stuff up and I don't know if I like that idea. My hands are too big to fit through the vent holes and get anything done so I guess removing my dash is the only way... I'm just going to replace the condenser and the fan control module and let it bump.... I run with the windows down most of the time anyways but she likes her AC...

 

[tfrank2032]

Rayra yes 265s factory so the 255 are same height as as 285 just narrower.

Mr.Ed lets see some pics....I assume they look a little funny, but from what ever heard in the local overland community is the 255s on the cruisers work better than the 285s on the Ozark trails and gravel bars around here.

I'm in the same boat for this tire debate. I'd love to see some pictures of somebody rocking 255/85/16's.

 

[Overlandtowater]

back to the tires if I go with the 255's I would like to put a set of these wheels on them if they are 16's they may possibly be 15's...I've only seen two vehicles in my area with these wheels any one have any info on them? This is the only picture I can find on enterwebs of this wheel.

 

[Overlandtowater]

these would be alright too.

 

[CrazyDrei]

no more front axle noise. I got it out and used it this past long weekend I took a couple days off to catch some fish, well lets just say I went fishing. Put some water miles in and got some decent pictures.

Strong work with the front axle, I had a similar issue and after couple days of trying to pry the short side out I just got a new diff and called it a day. I'm glad you were able to rip it apart and put it back together.

 

[Overlandtowater]

Strong work with the front axle, I had a similar issue and after couple days of trying to pry the short side out I just got a new diff and called it a day. I'm glad you were able to rip it apart and put it back together.

Thanks Drei,
I am too if I would have had to buy a new front axle I would have been looking a new rear axle too....I would have moved down to the 410's I know its not much but I had a 79 with 410's and 35 and it worked great. I know this 5.3 had to have more power than the 350 I had in the 79.

 

[Overlandtowater]

picked up a black chrome tip from the scrap yard a few 10+ years ago they have been on 4 different vehicles of mine. LOL

Too far out and get smooshed?

 

[Overlandtowater]

I ordered all the A/C stuff, 2 blend door actuators, blower motor control module, condenser. Also ordered a heavy duty headlight harness from LMC and 100w Hella high beam bulbs, and a pair of turn signal sockets to put in the DRL spot. Also ordered rear main seal.

Any one have the 100w high beams in their truck? will they get too hot and burn the lenses?

 

[Overlandtowater]

Got quite a bit done today. LMC 100high 90low headlight harness installed, put park and turn sockets in the DRL location and wired in, blower motor resistor swapped out, decided not to swap out the blend doors I'm not sure they are bad but I now have spares, A/C condenser swapped out,