Overlandtowater’s solid axle suburban

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
Started on the front axle shaft bearings today, I'm glad I didn't just do the side that was loose just listen to the bearings when I post up the video.. I pulled the long side tube to get at the bearing there 2 hours and its all tore apart not near as bad as I though. No need to even jack the truck up on the passenger side I was able to drop the CV shaft and side it out. Also found a heck of a sliver in the axle disconnect area but that was the only one just sitting on the bottom.

I was able to pot the gear off the axle with two screw driver but I realize now I could have used the same trip as I did to remove the axle from the bearing, just drop the whole thing on a block of wood with the axle end toward the block.. Pops right off.DSCF8567.JPGDSCF8574.JPGDSCF8572.JPGDSCF8570.JPG
 
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Overlandtowater

Well-known member
The last video shows that sliver I mentioned. The bearing is intact on that end so I wonder where the metal came from?




 
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rayra

Expedition Leader
man that bearing noise is ridiculous. nice work. I wonder what killed it? How was the diff fluid? Forever unchanged? water intrusion?
 

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
yeah 16 years old oil didn't look like any water got in it.....the plug had a good amount of shaving on it but nothing big. nothing like the smell of gear oil.
 

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
I hit a road block with the short side shaft...the keeper must me messed up because I've beat on this thing for the past 3 hours and cannot get it to budge. I thought it was because the long side housing was off and the bushings were obsorbing the shock from the slide hammer so I installed the long side just to see with no prevail.... any one ever have this problem. In the morning I'm going to hook a come along to it and put a ton of pressure on it then whack it with the slide hammer maybe that will knock it out.
 

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
So #8 is what made the sliver it was cone shaped into the axle housing....I don't know what caused it. Any one know what tat is called? Thrust washer maybe?2013-01-10_152521_060205tx06-057.png
 
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Overlandtowater

Well-known member
After looking at some pictures of people rebuilding the a 8.25 clamshell I realize why the thrust washer is the way it is...some previous owner/mechanic tried to use a slide hammer to pull the long axle out and therefore screwed the washer. The below picture makes me realize what caused the eared washer to be pulled into the long shaft housing. The same mechanic is probably the reason I cannot get the short shaft to pull out...….ARGGG!518235
 

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
Got it out I used a strap and pulled it until I started sliding the sub and jack stands on the concrete, pounded one side of a pickle fork behind the flange, and then beat it with the slide hammer about 30 whacks and it finally came out. Now I have the wrong short side bearing I guess a trip back to the parts store is in order.
 
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Overlandtowater

Well-known member
so I'm contemplating tires and I know everyone puts 285s on the subs but what about a 255/85. Any one? I'm thinking better millage on highway with a smaller contact patch. But harder to find in a pinch. What is everyone's thoughts on it?
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Aren't 265s the factory size?


Good work on the axle stuff. I finished all my front suspension replacements and I've still got a creaky/clunk going on. I'm really going to have to go over everything with a fine tooth comb, now.
 

MR. ED

Observer
I’ve got 255/85/16 cooper st on mine. Great tire. I sometimes wish I’d gotten 35’s. I just got the truck in the fall and haven’t driven it much yet, so I’m not sure about mileage.
 

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
Rayra yes 265s factory so the 255 are same height as as 285 just narrower.

Mr.Ed lets see some pics....I assume they look a little funny, but from what ever heard in the local overland community is the 255s on the cruisers work better than the 285s on the Ozark trails and gravel bars around here.
 

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
started messing with the HVAC actuators this after noon. My symptoms are well was before I drilled the condenser, was driver side would blow cool, driver side hot, rear super cold....

I pulled the actuator on the bottom and it turns but only with the passenger side controls is that correct? I pulled it and separated the case and every thing looks good no cracks or busts.

My question is there another actuator for the passenger side?
 

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