Overlandtowater’s solid axle suburban

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
So now two trips in and a thousand miles on the truck the right front brake decided to start dragging, smoked that sucker too. I'm going to try and bleed them maybe I got some air in the front lines when I redid the rear. Possible?
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
So now two trips in and a thousand miles on the truck the right front brake decided to start dragging, smoked that sucker too. I'm going to try and bleed them maybe I got some air in the front lines when I redid the rear. Possible?
more likely it's crud on the caliper pins keeping them in contact. Air in the lines would mean less brake pressure, not more. Pull the calipers apart and re-grease the pins they slide on.
Depending on the corrosion issues in your area, might be the brake pistons dragging.
I still have my standard calipers sitting in a box. Pay the shipping and they are yours, if they can be of use to you. My Sub was hecho in Mehico and has lived all its life in SoCal, so zero corrosion issues.

Question as well on the H2 springs, did you ever see anything if they are same ratign as original z71 components. I need to change mine finally / in the next couple months, might be doing a lot of towing and all I'm finding right now are Moog 81069 HD or maybe some Delco Pro HD variables for about the same ~$60 price. Want to get them ordered very soon.
 

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
more likely it's crud on the caliper pins keeping them in contact. Air in the lines would mean less brake pressure, not more. Pull the calipers apart and re-grease the pins they slide on.
Depending on the corrosion issues in your area, might be the brake pistons dragging.
I still have my standard calipers sitting in a box. Pay the shipping and they are yours, if they can be of use to you. My Sub was hecho in Mehico and has lived all its life in SoCal, so zero corrosion issues.

Question as well on the H2 springs, did you ever see anything if they are same ratign as original z71 components. I need to change mine finally / in the next couple months, might be doing a lot of towing and all I'm finding right now are Moog 81069 HD or maybe some Delco Pro HD variables for about the same ~$60 price. Want to get them ordered very soon.
I did clean and regrease everything when I changed the pads. Seems that's when everything started going bad. I opened the bleeders when pushing in the calipers because I heard the ABS system in these trucks in junk and doesn't like to be pushed backwards. ( I filled a coke bottle half full of fluid and ran a hose into the bottle and connected it to the bleeder but I still could have introduced air at that point.....After rebleeding the brakes (all 4) about 5 times every thing seems to be ok.

as far as the H2 springs all I found is the H2's are 3/4 ton rated....my rid is harsh unloaded, but I pulled a 16ft trailer with a 1500 lb side by side the other day an it rode like a dream even on corrugated gravel. Just a tiny amount of squat. about 1.5" with that combo.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
I really don't understand how air in a line can make a brake caliper clamp harder or stick. btw, was that discoloration in the tire superficial, did it rub / scrub off, or was the cooking worse?

Thx for the info on the springs. I wound up ordering the moog factory / heavy duty replacements. Something else for the 'install soon' pile. I figure the fresh springs will be enough of an improvement. I'm shopping around for a used 22-24' camper trailer or camper/toy hauler unit that the missus and I can take some trips in late this summer / fall. Whole idea is probably too much for my 1500/tiring 4L60, but I'm hoping a few fresh parts and that monster trans cooler I put on will make enough of a difference. Thinking the make the first couple trips as test runs upstate. If I have to I'm willing to put an aftermarket 4L65 rebuilt trans in it. Just wish I'd been able to find that 3/4 ton when I was looking years ago.

I finished the winch power plug wiring today, (mostly) working between rain showers. Only took me 4yrs+ lol
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
It ended being air in the line, but the front lines are on the short list.

I really don't understand how air in a line can make a brake caliper clamp harder or stick? btw, was that discoloration in the tire superficial, did it rub / scrub off, or was the cooking worse?

Thx for the info on the springs. I wound up ordering the moog factory / heavy duty replacements. Something else for the 'install soon' pile. I figure the fresh springs will be enough of an improvement. I'm shopping around for a used 22-24' camper trailer or camper/toy hauler unit that the missus and I can take some trips in late this summer / fall. Whole idea is probably too much for my 1500/tiring 4L60, but I'm hoping a few fresh parts and that monster trans cooler I put on will make enough of a difference. Thinking the make the first couple trips as test runs upstate. If I have to I'm willing to put an aftermarket 4L65 rebuilt trans in it. Just wish I'd been able to find that 3/4 ton when I was looking years ago.

I finished the winch power plug wiring today, (mostly) working between rain showers. Only took me 4yrs+ from when I started figuring it out lol
I also finally got a proper alignment today after months of changing steering and front suspension components. Finally decided I was done changing things and settled on the front height. Guy even got the steering wheel straight.
 

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
I really don't understand how air in a line can make a brake caliper clamp harder or stick? btw, was that discoloration in the tire superficial, did it rub / scrub off, or was the cooking worse?

Thx for the info on the springs. I wound up ordering the moog factory / heavy duty replacements. Something else for the 'install soon' pile. I figure the fresh springs will be enough of an improvement. I'm shopping around for a used 22-24' camper trailer or camper/toy hauler unit that the missus and I can take some trips in late this summer / fall. Whole idea is probably too much for my 1500/tiring 4L60, but I'm hoping a few fresh parts and that monster trans cooler I put on will make enough of a difference. Thinking the make the first couple trips as test runs upstate. If I have to I'm willing to put an aftermarket 4L65 rebuilt trans in it. Just wish I'd been able to find that 3/4 ton when I was looking years ago.

I finished the winch power plug wiring today, (mostly) working between rain showers. Only took me 4yrs+ from when I started figuring it out lol
I also finally got a proper alignment today after months of changing steering and front suspension components. Finally decided I was done changing things and settled on the front height. Guy even got the steering wheel straight.
they would only stick after driving a little while using the brakes, I was told that when hot the air would expand more than the fluid and cause that???? Maybe it was water intrusion in to the system and the water was boiling causing vapor I don't know. But I have done many 60-0 stops now without any more brake related problems...after all the bleeding I did I got to flush the system with new fluid if nothing else. I have noticed that my rear brakes are usually a little warmer after a short multi stop drive is this common in with the Gmt800?
 

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
Does your Suburban have a proportioning valve under the master? My 2006 does not have a proportioning valve. I know the ABS module on my truck does some funky stuff with brake bias. I've been fighting inconsistent pedal pressure for over a year. Sometimes it travels 1" with a hard pedal and other times it travels halfway with a soft pedal.
I'll have to look but I know it does have something under the master.
 

fnjeep314

Observer
Hey can I get you to drop some pics of your Suburban in this thread of just suburbans and tahoes?
 

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
Hey can I get you to drop some pics of your Suburban in this thread of just suburbans and tahoes?
I beat you to it post #18.
 

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