Phessor
Member
I don't have an F150, but I plan to bolt mine down after I receive it.
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OVRLND CAMPERS ONLY : Post your OVRLND Camper build here or a link to your build thread to inspire others!
- Thread starter aaaslayer
- Start date
PirateMcGee
Expedition Leader
Revised my sleeping set up a bit. Ordered foam and custom covers along with the Sierra Designs Frontcountry 20* bed sleeping bag. No more heavy bag that gets bunched up as the sleeping bag has a pad sleeve that works great with my foam.
Here’s my build out. i just recently put the Trail Kitchen wheel well cabinets in. I may be selling this in the near future.
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Phessor
Member
Very nice! I need to figure out to build something like this for my rig.
CanyonTravelers
Member
Morning everyone,
I have been noticing more OVRLND campers with the positive pressure vent. Any of you have experience with the vent, is it solving the dust problem, and any close up pictures of the unit? The vent is listed as a boat vent. Thanks Jeff
I have been noticing more OVRLND campers with the positive pressure vent. Any of you have experience with the vent, is it solving the dust problem, and any close up pictures of the unit? The vent is listed as a boat vent. Thanks Jeff
Fergie
Expedition Leader
I cant snap pics right now as my truck is getting some new gears, but I have noticed a huge difference in dust ingress. Right now I'm driving my mother's Tacoma w an OVRLND and it does not have the PPV. I was on dirt roads getting to and from a fishing spot yesterday, and there was significantly more dust in the tacoma than there is in my Tundra.
Yes, you have to remember to open and close it, or just leave it open all the time, but I found that it does work.
Yes, you have to remember to open and close it, or just leave it open all the time, but I found that it does work.
dstefan
Well-known member
I’ve had one in place for 2.5 years and go into the fine UT red dust a lot. It works quite well. You still have to obsessively seal your bed too I think, but the vent keeps out a lot of the fine stuff that filters in no matter what. In my experience a Bedrug really helps too. The vent also keeps the camper interior from heating up when on the road. I just leave mine open all the time. Also works well for nighttime venting with the Max fan on low.
Fergie’s comparison is pretty great evidence IMO.
It’s a Lewmar Marine Hatch vent and I found mine on West Marine; you can see some pics there. Jay put it in at my install, but now he’s making it a option. Pretty easy install though if you want to DIY. The filter and clip to hold it is DIY.
Here’s some pics installed
On a recent trip I noticed my 22 Silverado 1500 being a bit bouncy on paved roads. I didn't think that I was to heavy but I did have a lot of extra camping gear. So now I am thinking of helper springs, airbags or some type of suspension upgrade. A friend suggested just upgrading to load range E AT tires.
Suggestions?
Suggestions?
I have an 2018 GMC 1500, had the same issue. I installed Sumo Springs and this has helped, even when driving on pavement, especially in a turn there's less sway. Easy to install.
dstefan
Well-known member
… and that’s a good thing!
Think it really depends on a lot of variables: truck model and year, how well you seal everything, how many hidden voids and holes you can’t seal, barn doors vs flip up hatch, interior build (eg, full base plate, full Bedrug), bedrail caps, type and place and speed you drive off-road, etc.
For $79 I thought it was worthwhile to try it.
YMMV as they say
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While, Load Range E tires are likely a good idea for supporting the additional weight, in all reality they're going to make your ride worse. Look into suspension upgrades.
K9LTW
Active member
As ns7i stated...your ride will, likely, get worse. And...frankly I gotta disagree about it being a good idea for the extra weight. If you're driving a 1500, E-rated tires are going to be overkill for any application unless you're loading way above the GVWR of the truck. If you're not wheeling on some really rough, and sidewall-shredding trails, those tires are going to ride like rocks and you'll be airing down on gravel roads just to have a modicum of comfort. Your tires are part of your suspension, and having overly stiff tires only puts that much more stress on the rest of the suspension to absorb things.
If you're bouncing...there's a good chance that's an issue with rebound control from your shocks, or related to components like a trackbar. Stiffening the suspension with bags may run a good chance of actually worsening the issue if it's related to your shocks' ability to control rebound as compressing that stiffer suspension will result in it rebounding with even greater force. I have my Power Wagon bagged and cradled, but that's strictly to adjust for the rear sagging easily due to the soft suspension. I only add a minimal amount of air when towing and it's not enough to overtax the shocks. I also have a rear trackbar from Thuren to combat the insanely dangerous mid-bump corner performance those trucks have from the factory. Even without the air bags, though...it's never "bouncy". That's all just a band aid solution, anyway, until I finalize the interior build, weigh the truck, then redo the suspension based on the average weight I'll be running.
Though it could also be as simple as worn components or a really off-centered load.
montechie
Active member
I added Air Lift bags to my soft Gladiator Rubicon suspension last year and they've been great, eliminated body roll and sag. I like being able to fine tune the ride based on the weight of my current load. Eventually I'll add some aftermarket coils, but plan on keeping the Air Lifts in.