Pintle vs Lock&Roll vs Max Coupler
- Thread starter luk4mud
- Start date
brentbba
Explorer
Pics - how damaged? My trailer side coupler that sits in the cradle on the truck side is bent a little, but still very usable.
cnynrat
Expedition Leader
Ahhh, sorry to hear that Jim. Any idea where it happened?
I've posted these before elsewhere, but here's a pic of what my Lock & Roll looked like when I got back from the Maze:
The side "ears" on the vehicle side of the coupler that are intended to capture the drawbar had bent enough that it would rotate +/- 45* or so. You can also see that the link on the trailer side of the coupler was twisted. I think the twisted link is the most common form of damage to the LnR that sometimes results from backing while the trailer is at an acute angle to the tow vehicle.
I was able to pull the trailer out all the way from the Doll House and then home to SoCal with the coupler in this condition, so it was not catastrophic.
I've got the LNR shown here (receiver part is upside down):
Mine has the 45* limiter. My trailer is made from a 1981 Ford Courier bed, pulled behind a 2000 TJ. I have taken it to off road parks just to test the limits if the trailer, coupler, and Jeep. I cant imagine a situation where the trailer would be more than 45* off the tow vehicle, and try as I might, havent made it happen.
I got the hitch from our for sale section quite cheap, and very happy with it.
Mine has the 45* limiter. My trailer is made from a 1981 Ford Courier bed, pulled behind a 2000 TJ. I have taken it to off road parks just to test the limits if the trailer, coupler, and Jeep. I cant imagine a situation where the trailer would be more than 45* off the tow vehicle, and try as I might, havent made it happen.
I got the hitch from our for sale section quite cheap, and very happy with it.
Aspen Trails Trailers
Supporting Sponsor
Personally I have used my lock and roll for 7 years, or close to that. Many thousands of miles on it. I have purchase two Max Couplers for customers and have installed both. Towed both trailers a thousand or more miles for delivery. The Max Coupler is quieter, has less chance of bending it seems. I like the ease of the lock and roll for attaching in less than great conditions, but have to say I think the Max is the way to go. I will continue to use my Lock and Roll, but I see a nice new shiney black and red connection in the near future. Thanks Gabe.
Bob
www.aspenXtrails.com
951 692 0958
Bob
www.aspenXtrails.com
951 692 0958
cnynrat
Expedition Leader
Having used both the LNR and the Max Coupler I think your observations are spot on Bob. The Max Coupler is noticeably quieter than the LNR. The LNR is easier to connect under any circumstances, but particularly so if you aren't in your driveway at home.
teotwaki
Excelsior!
Dave, I think it was during the run to the Doll House, going in and out. Possibly the Z-turn. We mainly watched to be sure that I did not back into the trailer itself and did not think that we hit the limits of the LNR hitch. I did keep it lubricated with a spray can I kept in the nose box. I'll get a picture up ASAP because mine is worse than yours. Yet I still towed the trailer 700+ miles home. I don't know if I should bother contacting the LNR company about how it failed. I previously had the problem with the main nut "welding" to the mounting threads and stripping them when I tried to take the nut off so that cost me money. Now both halves are pretty much toast and I don't really want to have to buy a whole new one.
I don't think anybody is offering a deal on the Max Coupler so it will be a full price purchase too.
I don't think anybody is offering a deal on the Max Coupler so it will be a full price purchase too.
elcoyote
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0004
The advantage of the Max Coupler is that it won't fail like the L&R. We stopped carrying the L&R in 2009 after selling 235 of them and repeatedly asking L&R to resolve issues with the design to no avail.
There is a reason that we have sold over 450 of the Max Couplers since it was developed: They work and are reliable. Period.
They are good in stock at AT if you are in need of replacement for your L&R. On the webstore at http://store.adventuretrailers.com/products/Max-Coupler.html or give us a shout at 877-661-8097. We are happy to answer any of your questions about use, application and maintenance.
For reference, there are two ways to hook up a Max Coupler as shown in this video, we prefer the second method for ease. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4wb9kFUMNIA
There is a reason that we have sold over 450 of the Max Couplers since it was developed: They work and are reliable. Period.
They are good in stock at AT if you are in need of replacement for your L&R. On the webstore at http://store.adventuretrailers.com/products/Max-Coupler.html or give us a shout at 877-661-8097. We are happy to answer any of your questions about use, application and maintenance.
For reference, there are two ways to hook up a Max Coupler as shown in this video, we prefer the second method for ease. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4wb9kFUMNIA
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cnynrat
Expedition Leader
Jim -
Your LNR link is definitely twisted more than mine was. Looks like your side plates held up better than mine did, which could explain why your link experienced more stress. In my case it looked like the side plate bent up which allowed the vehicle side of the coupler to rotate on the draw bar.
Mario, did you actually have a real trailer hooked up to that thing?
My trailer doesn't seem to roll nearly as easily as what you show in the video, even on my driveway at home. When I'm in the dirt somewhere it's even more difficult. Good tip though to try leaving the coupler connected and hook up to the vehicle that way.
Your LNR link is definitely twisted more than mine was. Looks like your side plates held up better than mine did, which could explain why your link experienced more stress. In my case it looked like the side plate bent up which allowed the vehicle side of the coupler to rotate on the draw bar.
Mario, did you actually have a real trailer hooked up to that thing?
My trailer doesn't seem to roll nearly as easily as what you show in the video, even on my driveway at home. When I'm in the dirt somewhere it's even more difficult. Good tip though to try leaving the coupler connected and hook up to the vehicle that way.
Power Wagon Family
I Hate Off Camber
Looks like the "McHitch" is getting good reviews also. May be an option for us also.
elcoyote
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0004
view these and weep
Ouch! That is the more reminiscent of the classic "twist" failure we experienced with the L&R, usually while backing up, jack-knifed and off camber. Was that your experience?
Yep, our flatbed with the pnuematic wheel upgrade on pavement. Always helpful to get your jockey wheel lined up with your intended target first
Interesting www.mchitch.com/ It looks light duty and appropriate for light motorcyle trailers. Could be possibly applied to a dual sport moto scenario. I did not see any mention on their website about SAE J-684 testing or compliance which gives me some concern. I see that the shipping weight is only 5 lbs vs the 12 lbs of the Max Coupler. I don't recall the exact weight on the L&Rs we sold but I do remember them being heavier than the Max by a few pounds. That being said, it makes me think that the McHitch is designed for light duty compared to the 6000 lbs SAE rating for the Max.
cnynrat
Expedition Leader
Yep, our flatbed with the pnuematic wheel upgrade on pavement. Always helpful to get your jockey wheel lined up with your intended target first
Well that explains part of it - I'm sure my Horizon weights just a tad more than the flatbed!
I've been thinking about the pnuematic upgrade. It does seem like the metal jockey wheel is part of what makes it hard to move the trailer around. Guess I ought to pull the trigger on that soon.