PLEASE !!!! pick my new truck for our build

Skinhyfish

Observer
Have had great conversations with Mario at AT. Goal is to skip the sprinter van and go to an Aterra for a part/fulltime rig. We were debating weight, warm, and price. Aterra fits our needs. We have a 2020 tundra with Dobinson lift and 5.29’s on 35’s. Had a hallmark on it. Want a better warmer living space. Debating about using platform but feel the tundra won’t like it long term. Will tow part time, not heavy. Raft trailer or duck boat.

Our choices are

1 gas or diesel. (Daily driving feels, power, and cost)
2 single cab long bed for garage, or ext cab short bed ( goal is a short wheel base)


Dodge 6.7 diesel or the hemi 6.4 gas. Long bed single cab only option

Ford ext or single cab. 7.3 gas or 6.7 diesel

We are choosing the OEV aluma bed.


What would you choose and why?

Thank you all for you input and opinions.

Goal
 

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Kingsize24

Well-known member
If I had to choose a truck from that it would be a single cab, Ford F350 6.7 diesel. All the power you would ever want, the reliability is there, and the wheelbase is right with 37-40's, d60 front end, locking hubs, best transmission, dual alternators, etc etc. Zero question IMO.
 

rruff

Explorer
Have had great conversations with Mario at AT. Goal is to skip the sprinter van and go to an Aterra for a part/fulltime rig. We were debating weight, warm, and price. Aterra fits our needs. We have a 2020 tundra with Dobinson lift and 5.29’s on 35’s. Had a hallmark on it. Want a better warmer living space. Debating about using platform but feel the tundra won’t like it long term. Will tow part time, not heavy. Raft trailer or duck boat.
The Aterra is made from panels that have a PU honeycomb core, which is is not high R-value. I don't know what the Hallmark has, but question the Aterra being better in that regard.

The Attera also looks to have a rather tight sleeping berth. Since you said "we", that is probably very important.

In what sense do you think "the Tundra won't like it"?

At any rate, I'd skip the Sprinter also, and run a gas fueled truck. And a custom bed made for a slide-in could give you a lot more external storage.
 

Skinhyfish

Observer
The Aterra is made from panels that have a PU honeycomb core, which is is not high R-value. I don't know what the Hallmark has, but question the Aterra being better in that regard.

The Attera also looks to have a rather tight sleeping berth. Since you said "we", that is probably very important.

In what sense do you think "the Tundra won't like it"?

At any rate, I'd skip the Sprinter also, and run a gas fueled truck. And a custom bed made for a slide-in could give you a lot more external storage.
I think the tundra has the power, but brakes and flex of the frame is noticeable. I could feel it with hallmark. I have the suspension augmented for weight. I think heavy payload truck would be more enjoyable to drive with camper on. I have had a 1 ton diesel. Not much comparison to tundra. AT stated they did a camper on a half ton and wind wasn’t his friend.
 

driveby

Active member
I don't think you'll regret a 1ton chassis vs a Tundra. Regardless of logo on the grill. Who's your best local dealer? Ford or Dodge/Ram? Around here the Ram dealers are melting away and really only Ford is seamingly sticking around. Seems all the Dodge lots are becoming condos. Ford dealers must have picked worse locations??? Anyway, service convenience will play a part in how well you like your truck long term. Reality is any of them will do the job just fine. But if the warranty work is a PITA location/time wise or you hate how the seat won't adjust the right way or you hate the media buttons (or lack thereof) that's the stuff that will slowly suck the life out of you. Gas/Diesel/Ford/Chevy/Ram doesn't really matter. They are all good and certainly good enough to do what you're asking.
 

calicamper

Expedition Leader
Have had great conversations with Mario at AT. Goal is to skip the sprinter van and go to an Aterra for a part/fulltime rig. We were debating weight, warm, and price. Aterra fits our needs. We have a 2020 tundra with Dobinson lift and 5.29’s on 35’s. Had a hallmark on it. Want a better warmer living space. Debating about using platform but feel the tundra won’t like it long term. Will tow part time, not heavy. Raft trailer or duck boat.

Our choices are

1 gas or diesel. (Daily driving feels, power, and cost)
2 single cab long bed for garage, or ext cab short bed ( goal is a short wheel base)


Dodge 6.7 diesel or the hemi 6.4 gas. Long bed single cab only option

Ford ext or single cab. 7.3 gas or 6.7 diesel

We are choosing the OEV aluma bed.


What would you choose and why?

Thank you all for you input and opinions.

Goal
7.3 gas hands down. I know a couple of contractor company owners who have ditched their diesels for the 7.3 gasser. They literally love the thing so much they’re both eyeing more now that the truck market is crashing and prices are down. The savings in service costs alone has been a big eye opener for them. That alone makes it a no brainer. Mileage for them has been pretty similar most of their trucks average 30,000 miles a yr. So $200+ savings on basic oil change service which both of them say is several hours faster is a big deal. So far the 7.3 has done everything they need, saving $ and time along with a lower price point.
My buddy has his personal Tremor 7.3 / business truck 150,000 miles and still loves it and going to keep running it.
 

tacollie

Glamper
I would go gas if you aren't pulling big stuff. For a gas truck I would say Ford. We have a dog so the super cab is needed. If you're ordering it you can get it with 4.30 gears and a factory winch. With aftermarket wheels you can run 37s and no lift. A deflated and strapped 37 will fit in the stock location. If you're buying used I think the Ford gas trucks are safer bet. The 6.4 s don't do well with a lot of idling.

RAM does get you the AEV option if you prefer factory oriented aftermarket parts. RAM Crew cab with a 6.5'bed is shorter and has a better turning radius than the Ford super cab.

Or just sit in each of the truck you're looking at and by the one you like. Any of them will work.
 

rruff

Explorer
I think the tundra has the power, but brakes and flex of the frame is noticeable. I could feel it with hallmark. I have the suspension augmented for weight. I think heavy payload truck would be more enjoyable to drive with camper on. I have had a 1 ton diesel. Not much comparison to tundra. AT stated they did a camper on a half ton and wind wasn’t his friend.
I'd only consider keeping the Tundra since you already have it. They have well proven reliability, and I think it will work well... maybe with a little tweaking and careful selection. I guess I don't like trading vehicles as often as some people... ;) I'll just tell you my experience...

The Tundra frame is boxed under the engine, quite sturdy C channel under the cab back to the forward leaf mount, and then transitions to wimpy C channel. This rear part flexes quite a bit torsionally when crossed up, and vertically on bumps. I made a 3 point mount for mine, and it has far exceeded my expectations at dealing with the torsion... and also handles great IMO, even with no swaybars, once I changed to Ironman FCP shocks. I can exceed the speed limit easily in turns, it responds well to sudden maneuvers, and isn't scary in strong gusty winds, which are not unusual in NM. However... the vertical flex can be annoying if I hit a series of bumps that are spaced to cause resonance. This happened even when unloaded on some concrete roads, but it's worse now. I'm pretty sure the frame is the main culprit, but the camper itself is surely flexing as well. The frames on 1-tons will be stiffer... they are all fully boxed now (torsionally stiff) and they also don't have to pass crash testing, which I think is the main reason why 1/2 tons struggle with the rear frame, since it needs to absorb energy in a collision.

AT had a camper on a Tacoma initially. All the others I've seen were on 1 tons. The Tundra is closer to a 1 ton in size and weight than it is a Tacoma.

If you have the DC 6.5' model (mine is the DC 8'), the bed overhangs the front mount by more than a foot, and this is a weak point. For any bed (stock or custom) that area should be reinforced.

Brakes are fine. In a panic stop you will very likely be able to stop quicker than you could with a 1 ton, and IMO this is the only sort of extreme braking event we should be worried about, since we are not racing or stupid enough to drag brakes on long descents.

I'd pay special attention to the rear springs and shocks. Aftermarket is geared toward lifts mostly and light loads, which isn't ideal for camper hauling. Idaho Spring sells 4-leaf additions (each side) to the stock pack for ~$600 shipped. I don't have them yet; still just have airbags. The Ironman shocks have very high and digressive damping which is what I wanted. This is good for handling. Custom valved 2.5 shocks would be ideal for more money. Mostly I did not want to deal with overhauls on those.

But if you want to go with a 1 ton, the F350 with 7.3 would be a good choice I think. Although if that was the case I think I'd look for a bigger camper for a 2-person full-time setup.
 

SDDiver5

Expedition Leader
7.3 Godzilla hands down. I test drove one a few months ago for fun and was blown away. I heard they improved it from 2020 models too, don't know what they improved but I remember reading something about it. Reliability wise, they haven't been out long enough to know longevity but the maintenance savings along over a diesel will make up for any future repair.
 

Tex68w

Beach Bum
I've had both but the Ford extended cab would be my choice. I'd favor the diesel if staying mostly here in the states, the 7.3 gasser if you want to take it abroad with less issues sourcing fuel. Sounds like an awesome build, best of luck with your decision.
 

Skinhyfish

Observer
I'd only consider keeping the Tundra since you already have it. They have well proven reliability, and I think it will work well... maybe with a little tweaking and careful selection. I guess I don't like trading vehicles as often as some people... ;) I'll just tell you my experience...

The Tundra frame is boxed under the engine, quite sturdy C channel under the cab back to the forward leaf mount, and then transitions to wimpy C channel. This rear part flexes quite a bit torsionally when crossed up, and vertically on bumps. I made a 3 point mount for mine, and it has far exceeded my expectations at dealing with the torsion... and also handles great IMO, even with no swaybars, once I changed to Ironman FCP shocks. I can exceed the speed limit easily in turns, it responds well to sudden maneuvers, and isn't scary in strong gusty winds, which are not unusual in NM. However... the vertical flex can be annoying if I hit a series of bumps that are spaced to cause resonance. This happened even when unloaded on some concrete roads, but it's worse now. I'm pretty sure the frame is the main culprit, but the camper itself is surely flexing as well. The frames on 1-tons will be stiffer... they are all fully boxed now (torsionally stiff) and they also don't have to pass crash testing, which I think is the main reason why 1/2 tons struggle with the rear frame, since it needs to absorb energy in a collision.

AT had a camper on a Tacoma initially. All the others I've seen were on 1 tons. The Tundra is closer to a 1 ton in size and weight than it is a Tacoma.

If you have the DC 6.5' model (mine is the DC 8'), the bed overhangs the front mount by more than a foot, and this is a weak point. For any bed (stock or custom) that area should be reinforced.

Brakes are fine. In a panic stop you will very likely be able to stop quicker than you could with a 1 ton, and IMO this is the only sort of extreme braking event we should be worried about, since we are not racing or stupid enough to drag brakes on long descents.

I'd pay special attention to the rear springs and shocks. Aftermarket is geared toward lifts mostly and light loads, which isn't ideal for camper hauling. Idaho Spring sells 4-leaf additions (each side) to the stock pack for ~$600 shipped. I don't have them yet; still just have airbags. The Ironman shocks have very high and digressive damping which is what I wanted. This is good for handling. Custom valved 2.5 shocks would be ideal for more money. Mostly I did not want to deal with overhauls on those.

But if you want to go with a 1 ton, the F350 with 7.3 would be a good choice I think. Although if that was the case I think I'd look for a bigger camper for a 2-person full-time setup.


I agree on better tuned shocks and leafs for rear of tundra. If not a 1ton pick up. Debating about using tundra, putting on a norweld. Use the life of Tundra till done then upgrade truck. The Beauty of Norweld, it could be used on next truck and go with camper.

My fear is the flex and less of truck underneath camper would not good be for truck long term
 

rruff

Explorer
I don't know about Norweld... or how easy it would be to swap that to a new truck. The mounting points are different on every pickup model. Assuming you do not have the 8' bed, then all your mounting points are on the flexy and thin part of the frame. The new bed will certainly stiffen it, but there will be a stress concentration then at the forward mounts, where the frame is still weak.

I'm literally the only person I know of that did not hard-mount their after-market bed or camper on the Tundra, so maybe it's a non-issue... but hard mounting seems like a bad idea to me. The system I made is simple though and lets the frame articulate, and no adverse effects are apparent so far.

A newer pickup in the 1 ton range or less are all fully boxed frames and torsionally stiff, so you can hard mount beds and campers to them without concern. Note that this is not true of the cab-chassis frames which are still C-channel.

IMO a fore-aft bed with good headroom is important if you are traveling long term with a mate, and generally it's good to have a camper that's big enough and set up so you can stay out of each other's way. So a 1-ton with a custom bed for a 8' slide-in that keeps the platform low and has external storage, would be quite versatile I think. A 550-5500 would be even better for the higher capacity and the option of a longer frame and single cab+ garage+ 8' camper (though these will need an articulating bed), with one significant advantage being the tighter turning radius at this level.

I know... may be getting carried away... but when I see "we" and "fulltime" I think it's important to not underestimate the level of amenities necessary to keep everyone happy. You'd still be offroad capable enough to comfortably get miles from the crowds of RVs and van-lifers... but IME you'll never be able to avoid the noisy and obnoxious ATVs that are everywhere... so there are diminishing returns in making your house too offroad capable.
 

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