AZPAJERO
Observer
hey you have a pic of that rear bumper? Did you build it?
Me? Weld? Hahahahaha.........no. But my good buddy Toasty did
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
hey you have a pic of that rear bumper? Did you build it?
Nice that looks great, I’m working on one similar I just cut my rear quarter panels down or whatever you’d call them. And working on a mock upMe? Weld? Hahahahaha.........no. But my good buddy Toasty did
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Can I ask what are the spring rate's that King settled on for front and rear?
And out of interest do you know what the spring rates are from standard?
Jim
A few images from a recent trip around the south part of the south island of New Zealand. Some beautiful country down here. And lots of Pajeros!
My rig is a 93 turbo diesel 4m40, manual, factory locker, 60mm suspension lift, 33s, 4.9 gearing, winch, rated recovery points..... etc
Nice that looks great, I’m working on one similar I just cut my rear quarter panels down or whatever you’d call them. And working on a mock up
did you also raise the gas tank?
Can you share pictures of your suspension lift? I'm interested on lifting my Montero, I'm not liking the idea of a body lift.
Sorry for the late reply here. Havent been on for a little bit. Anyway, down here in New Zealand the way many people are doing a suspension lift is to use factory rear springs from a Nissan Safari/Patrol. They fit perfectly and give about a 2.5 inch lift and a higher spring rate. And they are super common, you can get them free or cheap from the Nissan guys. Now if your not in a country with lots of Safari/Patrols this probably isn't so helpful, but the approximate lift I have is 2.5 inches. Previously I was running a set of Dobinson 30mm lift springs (just over an inch), but I eventually found that I wanted/needed more lift than that. Found that I was enjoying some of the harder tracks and needed more clearance.
On the front there isn't that much you can do with the torsion bars. I wound mine up approximately 2 inches (when the truck is full for trips it sits pretty even). But winding up the torsion bars brings the upper A arms drop stops closer to their stops on the frame. This decreases the amount of down travel you have which negatively effects your offroad performance as well as making the truck drive harsh on the road.
So there are two main things I know about to alleviate this problem. The easier (and legal in NZ) way to do this is to just trim the drop stops to open up some of that space again. There is a line about halfway down the stops which is a pretty good place to start. Remember you have 4 drop stops in total, 2 of them are harder to see (back by the brake line) and you could not notice them. The other thing you can do (but is illegal in NZ) is to do an upper ball joint flip. For this you take the upper ball joint, which from factory is attached to the top of the upper A arm, and bolt it to the bottom of the A Arm. You can even put a spacer between the A Arm and the ball joint if you want to go nuts. But like I said, this isnt legal in NZ and is maybe not that safe as now your upper ball joint is only held in place with 3 smallish bolts. But to be honest plenty of people here have done the ball joint flip with no problems driving pretty hard. I am curious how much this would help me, but just cutting the drop stops helped quite a bit.
You asked for photos of my suspension set up. I can get some in the next day or so. But to be honest theres not that much to see. Some taller black springs and some chopped drop stops.
PS just added a bunch of random photos from sweet trips around NZ! Definitely worth a visit once this COVID thing is all over!!