Just back from four+ days off the paved roads in Death Valley. New lifters, lots of dust, miles of truly awful washboard roads, treacherous icy roads, high winds and lots of locked bathrooms. Where to begin...
Time to load up.
Here Sheri is even more scared than she looks – those jacks do not seem stable up that high, but they seem to do the job.
New for this trip is a roof basket.
No taller than the camper when empty. Passenger side of the rack will be for skis or other stuff. The basket worked well to decrease back seat clutter.
Despite both having Friday off, we got a late departure; finally pulling in to Panamint Springs Campground just before 10PM. Our friends arrived much earlier and reserved a site for us, excellent! The electric lifters seemed very loud in the mostly quiet campground at that hour but it all worked as planned - set up and we were inside with the heater going and beers cracked in record time. I like!!
Saturday we drove up over Hunter Mountain. Our friends in a 2009 Tacoma TRD hadn't done much wheeling so they were getting the feel of steep and rocky roads and having a blast. We all enjoyed epic views and great pinyon-juniper forest up to about 7,000 feet.
We checked out the local accommodations (Hunter Mountain Cabin) but decided risk of inhaling some Hanta Virus was exceedingly high so moved on after signing the quest register.
Coming down the more-or-less north-facing side of the mountain, we encountered several patches of snow/ice. Eventually, we saw three old (early 60's??) Land Rovers pulled off the road with lots of gear strewn about. A guy came up towards us over a steep icy patch of road waving his arms. Seems while coming through this patch, one of the rigs in the party started to slide, lost steering and tipped over. All were okay and they had already winched the vehicle up and out of the road. We offered assistance but they had it all well under control. They had tossed some dirt on the ice and gave us some advice on the safest line and we proceeded without issue. Squeezing by the three rigs as we carried on down the mountain, we looked in to some rather traumatized looking faces belonging to some of the children in the Land Rover party. Don't blame them, must have been scary stuff.
A few side trips to old mines and cabins and eventually down to Teakettle Junction. Lots of teakettles.
Here we pick up the road to Racetrack Playa - a notoriously rough washboard road. It lived up to it's reputation. I was constantly watching my mirrors to make sure the camper was still there - no speed seemed to help smooth out the bumps so we just rattled violently along. Reached Homestake Dry Camp just before dark, squeezed in to a site - about 10 other rigs spread out in the area. Checked the camper mounts and all seemed well. Set-up was again a breeze. Cold night but we slept well thanks to the heater.
Spent the next day hiking to some nearby mines and other nearby sites of interest. Pretty well preserved leftovers from a WW II era lead mine. All of the vertical and horizontal shafts had been blocked off by the NPS with heavy cable nets, many of which have subsequently been cut to allow access. The nets keeping folks out of the seemingly bottomless vertical shafts like the one below this structure were thankfully still intact.
Hiking back down towards camp, we saw that everyone else cleared out of the camp and we had it to ourselves.
Can you spot the Pro-Rig? Pretty good solitude for a National Park.
A scramble up a rock formation led to more epic views.
Found some cool fossils in the rocks here but the sun was getting low so we headed back to camp for dinner and sleep.
The next morning we visited the famous Racetrack Playa "sailing rocks". Always a cool site to see.
We headed back out Racetrack Road for another hour+ of washboard suffering.
Quick stop at Ubehebe Crater.
Inspected the camper mounts again here and was very happy to see that all was totally secure and nothing seemed to be moving. Ended the day with a run down Titus Canyon. The late afternoon/evening light was amazing. View from Red Pass
Quick stop at the ghost town of Leadville and the last light of the day
Then we finished in the dark. Good stuff.
Landed at Mesquite Springs Campground so we could have a New Years Eve fire. Though officially not open due to the government shut down, there were quite a few rigs in there and it was free - bathrooms were locked up though as they were through much of the park. We gave the porta potti a real test this trip. Had a fire despite the high winds and cold temps and made it to "Central Time New Years" (10PM local), popped the champagne, then crawled off to bed.
Slow start in the morning but got the trauma of the porta potti clean up out of the way at the dump station - much better place to do this than the bathroom at home. Did a last hike up the lower narrows of Titus Canyon (that we drove in the dark), nice way to end the adventures.
While eating some lunch at the mouth of the canyon, we had an interesting talk with an NPS ranger about the government shutdown. He is "essential" so he's working and hoping to get paid eventually. I pressed him a little for an insiders opinion and he opened up a bit - what seemed to gall him the most is the significant waste of money it was costing the government to pay all the NPS employees to "shut things down" and then eventually "re-open" them, he had several projects halted in mid stride that would have to be started from scratch (more wasted time/money), etc., etc. All the while the park was generating no revenue from camping or entrance fees (despite a lot of us entering and camping). His commentary was decidedly apolitical, but his frustration was pretty real.
Stopped in Stovepipe Wells to air up the tires and then headed towards home.
Camper summery:
- Love the new lifters, they worked just as hoped and made set-up WAY easier. I have a few minor upgrades to add to them mulling around in my head now.
- I have more confidence than ever in the current mount system - there was a lot of very rough driving on this trip and nothing moved.
- I always expected the seals around the back door would allow lots of dust to get in - I know I don't have a perfect seal but there just were no dust issues inside despite lots of miles of dusty roads.