Project BigB... a 1977 Dodge Van 6x4!

[Photog]

I am planning to put a Fantastic Fan in the roof at the rear... maybe I should add a fan in the roof side above the galley or figure out a way for the main one to perform both duties with some ducting and a removable shroud...

Two fans would be a better idea than pressing one fan to do both duties. For the stove area, you may be able to use a large "case fan", like those on computer cases. There are 120mm and a 180mm 12volt versions of this fan, and they really pull a lot of air. Shrouding the vent from rain, or ducting the air to an existing vent might be the hard part.

Cool van.

 

[scotter]

I have tried the SS spray cleaner on my fridge door but the olive oil works better. The striations are pretty deep, feels like 400 grit sandpaper in one direction, glass in the other.
QUOTE]

You should use mineral oil. The olive oil can go rancid and harbor bacteria, not exactly what you want on your food storage container. Mineral oil will give you similar results.

 

[Keyblazer]

The computer case fans are a great idea, and 12v too. Some simple ductwork and a weatherproof vent on the side of the roof.
Will try the mineral oil too!
Its been so hot here this last weeks I have not been doing much but planning. Its been a tough few months with the house move, trying to get my garage straight and tools laid out. A lot of my stuff is still in storage, and I have to get the girlfriend to agree on what can be thrown out of her stuff to make space for mine... these things take time.... I did get serious kudos this week by fixing her beloved Range Rover that was overheating... I was dreading a headgasket or worse, a porous block, but my tests uncovered a thermostat that failed closed! :smiley_drive:

 

[Riptide]

I don't know what your budget is, but I'd rethink the whole built-in generator thing. I have an Onan Microlite, propane powered, and I have to be desperate to run it, as in a small platform like yours and mine, they really rattle the whole camper...

When we get somewhere for awhile, I'd rather just hook up my little Yamaha.

A portable generator is so much more useful, I think, and it's more likely to get serviced, and used, if it's removeable. A good Yamaha or Honda are worth their cost.

Put the spare back under there, or tankage, or batteries, or whatever, but dump the genny. After you get the Fantastic fan or two installed, having the AC won't be quite so necessary...

 

[Keyblazer]

After you get the Fantastic fan or two installed, having the AC won't be quite so necessary...

Thanks for the input and I really do appreciate every comment!
However, I see you live in CT... and a fantastic fan might work there... but I live in SoCA, and my favorite haunt and weekend getaways is the high desert... and Death Valley. Two weeks ago I was at my storage, working on BigB, and the outside temp at 3pm was 106F... I was inside ripping out carpet, wood and cleaning up... genset was running and the Rooftop A/C was humming.... the inside temp was 79F... I was sweating, but that was because of the labor!
The genset is already there, wired and in fact runs great and considering the age of it. Looking at the way its mounted and insulated it runs pretty quiet, but with a small amount of work I can make it better.

 

[Keyblazer]

Well, I feel like I got my smog figured out and I am jazzed!
I have been working solidly on a smog issue for my Airsteam and in doing that finally found the "Source" for Smog/emissions equipment for my van!
Here is the book I was directed to, and bought.

here is the page that tells all!

So, my van "original" GVW according to the plate is 6400lb.
Its a California van, so it should have 2 Barrel carb, PCV, EGR, SPK, and EVAP.
Thats it!
I was fretting thinking I was missing Cats and Air injection pumps and a whole bunch of other stuff...
Looking closely at the engine, I have the EGR, PCV, and the SPK(I think). I can see a Evap canister, so just need to be sure its connected properly, as with all the pipes. I have a 4 barrel carb fitted, as well as aftermarket headers so am gonna hope that I can get that thru...

 

[xped]

My Dodge is a 78 and it does have an air injection pump but no cats. From the research I've done you can have a 4bbl carb if it was offered for that year van. In 78 there was no 4bbl option, not sure on 77.

 

[Keyblazer]

Looking at my book, the only 4 Barrel option was on the 440ci V8 in 1977 and 1978.
None of the 360ci equiped vans that are over 6000lb GVW "Need" Air Injection/smog according to the table.

 

[eagle1]

my dad worked for a dodge dealer until '79 (when i was born)and he said that the vans didn't get cats until 1978 the B100's,the B200;s & B300's got them in 1979 or so

 

[Keyblazer]

Yeah, its a real mystery this whole smog deal!
hey, Xped... What does your ID plate say for the GVW?

 

[xped]

I believe my gvw is around 9200lbs. Mine is a cutaway motorhome chassis with dual rear wheels (since removed for 33" tires).

 

[Keyblazer]

Mmm.
I think I am gonna need to take it to a weigh station before I smog so I can argue for the higher weight classification if need be.

The USPS Fairy bought me some goodies the other week thanks to Gordon at Pathfinder...

 

[Keyblazer]

Some good news....
My Dodge got voted "Truck of the Month October 2010" over at the Dodge Forum!
Made me feel good!

Some bad news...
I had ripped the interior out, and was collecting parts and planning my next push, when we had some major rain in the last 2 weeks..
I went out to do some work today, and was puzzled cos inside was a swimming pool...
Wet wood on the floor, the remnants of the carpet and the boxes I had stored were all soaked.
I knew the front part of the roof had a leak, as I could see the trim was wet under the antenna holes.
What I was not expecting was what I found when I got up there to look....
The area where the metal roof meets the raised fiberglass rear section was smoothed with sealant... and the sealant was aged and peeled back. As the truck sits slightly lower at the rear, the rain puddles on that area, and leaks inside. But it got worse...
I grabbed a screwdriver and attacked the sealant... and there is at least 2 sections that are riddled wth rust right thru. I also found the same issue with at least 2 areas on the drip rails... a fillit of sealant that has trapped moisture and rusted thru.
I was really shocked and then sad.. its ugly, a lot of work/probs to fix, AND I cannot move fwd until I have a solution.

So, my first thought was find a good roof/section at the junk yard(assuming I find a good one!) and replace the whole roof panel.
Then I got to thinking that maybe this is a blessing... I have seen plenty of Vans with a raised forward section... maybe I just cut the roof skin off, and raise the forward section, adding a roll cage/stiffener to replace the strength lost..
Just thinking about it!

 

[wrcsixeight]

I've been battling the roof gutter rust for 9 years with my Dodge, and I am losing. It is raining right now here in SD, and I am listening to drips hitting my lower door sill.

The windows are also major leak sources. With all the body flex, caulk quickly fails. I found you must use the thicker 3/16 to 3/8 inch thick double sided tape, in between window frame and body and caulk around that after you pull it tight.

I have removed my fiberglass roof 3 times to fight the roof gutter rust, and only managed to slow it. The last time I had to rivet some aluminum c channel to some aluminum L angle to rebuild the rear roof gutter, and make something for the fiberglass roof to screw into. It's not pretty, but neither is my Van. I used Stainless screws and 3M 5200 adhesive marine sealant to hold it down. 5200 is basically permanent.

I will have to do the same thing over my side doors as the gutter there has disintegrated too, and causes water to drip inside there too.

I already have some more 5200 and C channel to replace that section. We are supposed to have 3 very dry days mid week. I hope to get mine as water tight and rust resistant in that time before winter sets in further.

The rust is a night mare. Do what you can to prevent the cancer from spreading while you think of the method to do it right, and how far you are willing to take it. Take the loose stuff off, slather it with Permatex rust converter, and when that dries cover it with some peel and stick self adhesive roofing roll. I got an 8 inch wide roll, and sacrificed an old chop saw blade to make 2 inch strips. That stuff takes paint and will slow down the inevitable and keep the water out while you figure out a better solution.

Don't let that thing disintegrate before I have a chance to drive up there and check it out. Congrats on the DT TOTM award!

 

[Kelster]

The RV guys have a product called Eternabond that's a sealing tape that (so they say) sticks to anything and is near impossible to remove. It may not do what you want but I figured it was worth mentioning.