Project Gryphon M101A3

Phoenix

Adventurer
I recently purchased a M101A3 from a Marine recently returned from active duty. He purchased the trailer through GovLiquidation.com and brought it back to South Jersey. He also maintained the surge brake, checked the wiring, converted the bulbs to 12V before I found it. I was actually responding to a CL ad for a M101A2. As the A3s are getting harder to find, I was very happy to hear he had one. Evidently he buys trailers and other government surplus and resells regularly. I thought the price was fair, and always like to support anyone who serves.

My son and I brought it over to a friends house to check it out and determine if it needed anything done prior to getting a title and plate for the trailer.
First day.jpg

The trailer came with the bows and the tarp. The tarp has a few small holes, but nothing that can't patched up if I find a use for it. For now, I'm holding onto everything that came with the trailer till I determine it will no longer work with the trailer as I make it mine.

The tires, wheels, axle, wiring, trailer as well as the bed are in excellent condition. If someone asked if I thought it was ever deployed, my answer would be "maybe to move things around inside a warehouse".

POST BUILD EDIT:
If you are going to weld anything close to the bed of the trailer, either have ample fire extinguishers available and/or wait until after you are done welding to bedline the bed. Welding will cause the bedliner to catch fire. In my experience not a large burn down the garage fire, but it will burn, and it will stink, and you will need to at least sand and re-bedline the area.
END OF POST BUILD EDIT

As you can tell by the picture, I have a 4 door Jeep Wrangler. I had recently bedlined the interior using Rustoleum bedliner and was very happy with the price and the result. So the first thing I've done to the trailer is to bedline the bed.

I took off the drop gate and gave it a good sanding using some large grit materials
Prepped.jpg

I gave the drop gate 4 coats of bed liner, the walls of the tub 2 coats, and the bed of the tub 4 coats. Waited a day, and put it back together.
Bed lined and back together.jpg

Since then I've driven it to pick up some Military Surplus cases in NE PA and used it to carry all of my and a friends camping gear out to the Grand Canyon of PA and back.

The trailer tracks right behind the Jeep and the Jeep does well with some of those very long climbs going up the NE Extension.

I'd say the only issue I've had is learning how to back up a trailer. I'm getting better at it, but most people get a kick out of watching, till they get bored and go away.

My plans are many. The overall goal of the trailer build is to store everything needed for 1 - 5 people to go out and have an adventure. If I can get my wife to join me just once a year for a few nights away from it all, I'll call it a success. My kids and I are already planning trips for the summer between their Junior and Senior years of HS. A week with Dad, his Jeep, and his Trailer, they pick the place, and navigate.


Phase 1 is to build something similar to Box Rocket's telescoping RTT rack. My friend and I picked up the steel last weekend and will start cutting and welding with a group of friends next weekend. I hope to have the rack built before the end of August.

We are going to use the existing bow pockets in the trailer. I've already picked up a cold steel chisel to remove the spot welds of the clips inside the pockets that keep the bows in place. Should be a loud first step.

I'm going with 3/16 ID rectangular pipe, most of it 1 1/2 square. I've ordered a decent sized box of toys from Mc Master, and will make sure to take plenty of pics during the build.

Other than that, the only decision I've made is to wait to reduce weight. I'll eventually go with a different hitch, most likely something like the max coupler.

I really like the 37s on the trailer, my Jeep has 35s, which gives it a slight tongue down stance when empty.

I like using things till they are ready to be replaced, and this axle and the tires look like they have at least 50K to go.
 
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RagnarD

Adventurer
Looking forward to the build. Please post how removing the stake pocket spring clips works out. I thought about drilling the spot welds but ended up leaving them in and making some stakes to accommodate them.

Even if the tires are in good shape, I would swap them out for a regular tire. You will be impressed with how much better it tows with truck tires.
 

Phoenix

Adventurer
Looking forward to the build. Please post how removing the stake pocket spring clips works out. I thought about drilling the spot welds but ended up leaving them in and making some stakes to accommodate them.

Even if the tires are in good shape, I would swap them out for a regular tire. You will be impressed with how much better it tows with truck tires.

Will do regarding the stake pocket. Head slap moment when you mentioned drilling them out. Not like we can't spot weld a drilled out hole. It will be the first step, so I'll post up about that by the 18th.

Here is my thought on swapping tires. I'm planning on taking this on the trail. Not the Rubicon or anything, but certainly down a few trails where having a run flat might come in handy. My plan, and everything is a plan until 5 minutes after it isn't, is to swap out the existing tires and axle when this trailer gets too heavy for my Jeep to pull it down a trail. The only thing I can see changing that plan is having a cross country trip come up. With multiple kids going into college in the next few years, I don't see that happening either.

Also, it's good to see your build thread active again. Your's is one of the threads I've been watching.
 
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Phoenix

Adventurer
With the rack in the up position, the bottom of the tent is going to be roughly 7 feet off the ground. I was thinking it could get a little wobbly up there. I didn't want to lose any clearance underneath the trailer, and the frame is 30 inches off the ground.

I found these jacks on etrailer.com; Pro Series Square Jack with Footplate - Drop Leg - Sidewind - 15" Lift - 3,000 lbs. I can weld a Jack Pipe Mount for 2-1/2" Female Mount and 9/16" Pin on each corner of the trailer, and weld Jack Pipe Mount for 2" Male Mount and 9/16" Pin onto each jack. I'm expecting that this will totally stabilize the trailer when unhitched, and possibly even bring it level.

When I'm ready to hit the road, pull 4 pins and store the jacks in the trailer.

Pro Series Square Jack with Footplate - Drop Leg - Sidewind - 15" Lift - 3,000 lbs
BD015273

Bulldog 1-7/8" Long, Weld-On Jack Pipe Mount for 2-1/2" Female Mount and 9/16" Pin
BD015271

Bulldog 1-5/8" Long, Weld-On Jack Pipe Mount for 2" Male Mount and 9/16" Pin
BD500219

Linchpin Kit - 0.563" Diameter
 

FandL

JK ADDICTION
I looking forward to your build!

I extended the tongue to fit a box and to allow the trail gate on JK to fully open. I also replaced the hitch setup with a 2"receiver to accommodate what ever type of hitch setup I chose (I recommend the Max Coupler).

Also, the top of my rack is approximately 7'+ and it's SOLID. There is no sway or flex at all.

Keep the pics coming!
 

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Phoenix

Adventurer
Adding length to the tongue to allow the rear door to open and moving to a max coupler (or something similar) is definitely on the list. Where on the list? Not sure yet.

Right now I'm focused on welding up the rack and installing a RTT before the NE Overland Workshop in October. Once that is done. I have Nov - Jan to do some additional research, planning, and maybe even some work on the trailer.

Got all excited when my new set of Cobalt drill bits arrived yesterday. Between boxes from McMaster and eTrailer, my UPS guy isn't very happy with me right now.

Thanks for the comments, and the knowledge.
 
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RagnarD

Adventurer
I would definitely extend the tongue if I were doing it again. I still may if I can find some donor tongue pieces. You could probably get by with just one jack in each rear corner and the tongue jack (that is what I am planning to do). Just the single rear stabilizer was fine for tip over prevention but not very good for stability. If you do one in each corner plus a tongue jack, you will be hauling around a lot of jacks and weight, not to mention the cost of 5 jacks. The top of my rack is ~7' tall as well.
 

Phoenix

Adventurer
I would definitely extend the tongue if I were doing it again. I still may if I can find some donor tongue pieces. You could probably get by with just one jack in each rear corner and the tongue jack (that is what I am planning to do). Just the single rear stabilizer was fine for tip over prevention but not very good for stability. If you do one in each corner plus a tongue jack, you will be hauling around a lot of jacks and weight, not to mention the cost of 5 jacks. The top of my rack is ~7' tall as well.

I'm going to start looking into extending the tongue this fall.

Regarding 3 vs 5 jacks, and I do appreciate the weight and cost aspects, is 3 points of contact enough when leveling out the trailer? I was thinking if I got to a site and it wasn't level that I would need at least 4 jacks to spread the weight around.

Thanks for the comments. Between you and FandL, I might actually get this right.

Still waiting for Mark's observations..... :peepwall:
 

Phoenix

Adventurer
Got a ton done on the trailer this weekend.

I think Ragnar asked about the tabs in the bow pockets. I needed to remove them as I decided to use the pockets for the posts.

After discussion with two of the people that helped this weekend, we decided to drill out the tabs.

drilled out tabs.jpg

The two items on the left then needed to be removed from the pocket. Magnets on long chisels are fun to play with.
Tabs.jpg
 

Phoenix

Adventurer
Decided on a full length rack for the trailer. This will allow me to carry items in front of and behind the roof top tent.

First order of business was to cook some bacon and then weld up the perimeter.




While the rack was being welded, we also needed to create the the posts that will allow the rack to move up and down similar to how Box Rocket made his rack.


Our primary stock is 1 1/4" square stock. The pockets of the trailer are 2" x 1 1/2". We were able to find the right stock for the outside / stationary piece of the post, but could not find anything the fit inside without moving from side to side. So we added some flat stock to the inside of the post that will be stationary.
 

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Phoenix

Adventurer
As the day progressed, the rack developed.


Based on flex and feed back, more support pieces and gussets were added


We prepped the rack for paint, much bigger job than it sounds like. Imagine two guys with grinders throwing sparks.

We hit both sides with Rustoleum Self Etching Primer and then some Rustoleum Flat Black.

Then we removed the paint in the appropriate places and welded the rack onto the posts


We added some gussets to further tie the rack to the posts
 
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Phoenix

Adventurer
As the rack will go up to close to 7 feet, I wanted to ensure that the trailer would be stable when it was disconnected from the Jeep.

In the spirit of over engineering, I decided to add some jacks to each corner. As I needed at least 30" in length, I chose some weld on jacks.


 

Phoenix

Adventurer
Next step is to add the gas springs to see this thing go up and down. Will also need to drill out the pins to hold the rack in the lower or upper positions.

Hopefully I can get that done in the next week or two. Tent won't be arriving till end of August, early September.
 

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