Project Gryphon M101A3
- Thread starter Phoenix
- Start date
:wings: :smiley_drive: :REOutCampFire03:
Nothing overly exciting, but I finished drilling out the 9/16 holes for the lynch pins to hold the rack in the up and down position.
Now I can finish painting the rack and clean up the trailer. Magnets are fun to use to clean up shavings.
And to share something I learned along the way. If you are going to be welding on a complimentary surface, it is advised not to bedline said surface prior to welding. It is also always a good idea to have a fire extinguisher available...
Couple of spots in the bed lining got cooked. A little surface sanding and a couple passes of rattle can bedliner will do the trick.
Now I can finish painting the rack and clean up the trailer. Magnets are fun to use to clean up shavings.
And to share something I learned along the way. If you are going to be welding on a complimentary surface, it is advised not to bedline said surface prior to welding. It is also always a good idea to have a fire extinguisher available...
Couple of spots in the bed lining got cooked. A little surface sanding and a couple passes of rattle can bedliner will do the trick.
Learned a couple of things this weekend, and have a few questions for those in the know.
When travelling low speeds on the trails, 15 mph and less, it is noticeably more quiet when you lock out the surge brake. You should also lock out the surge brake with something stronger than a stainless steel pin.
When travelling through a forest that has been burnt out, even brushing a tree with the trailer can end up with the top of the tree on your Jeep. No harm done, thanks to insects the top of the tree was 50% air. Very messy though.
Mark, I remember you stating in one of the many threads the size of the pin used to lock out the surge brake, was it 5/8"? I'm going to look for one that is at least grade 5 hopefully I can find a grade 8 version.
Are there are good internet sources of information for swapping a surge brake system for an electrical brake system? Is this one of those modifications that is easier done by swapping the axle?
How hard is it to remove the lunette and surge brake and replace with a max coupler or lock and roll and electronic brake? If anyone can point me to some resources, I'm happy to do the research.
When travelling low speeds on the trails, 15 mph and less, it is noticeably more quiet when you lock out the surge brake. You should also lock out the surge brake with something stronger than a stainless steel pin.
When travelling through a forest that has been burnt out, even brushing a tree with the trailer can end up with the top of the tree on your Jeep. No harm done, thanks to insects the top of the tree was 50% air. Very messy though.
Mark, I remember you stating in one of the many threads the size of the pin used to lock out the surge brake, was it 5/8"? I'm going to look for one that is at least grade 5 hopefully I can find a grade 8 version.
Are there are good internet sources of information for swapping a surge brake system for an electrical brake system? Is this one of those modifications that is easier done by swapping the axle?
How hard is it to remove the lunette and surge brake and replace with a max coupler or lock and roll and electronic brake? If anyone can point me to some resources, I'm happy to do the research.
Been a busy 3 weeks. I'll hit the highlights.
I am learning to weld, been laying down everything from blobs to some reasonably nice welds. One of the things I have found is that if you get good penetration, blobs hold just as well as a good clean weld. Grinding takes time, but its nice to be doing my own welds.
After all the welding, grinding, painting, etc. I was having some issues with the rack moving up and down. To date I have been using my kids as ballast as the tent won't arrive till tomorrow. The action on the up and down went from fairly smooth to very difficult. I was especially concerned with the up action as previously, once we removed the weight, the rack would move on its own, this no longer happened.
My son and I used some of the jacks I am using as stabilizers for the trailer to lift the rack out of the female tubes welded into the trailer. We then proceeded to empty a few cans of brake clean into the female tubes and used some rags to clean out the gunk that had built up. Followed that up with some compressed air. The volume of metal shavings and particles was amazing. Once clean, I sealed up these tubes with painters tape (other than zip ties and duct tape, how did we ever survive without painters tape?)
Hit the male tubes with some brake clean, wiped them down and decided to clean them up with some 3M sanding pads on my new right angle grinder. My arsenal of air tools has increase significantly, and this makes me happy! Ground the male tubes down a bit. Noticed some decent gouges from metal shavings in the male tubes. Wiped them down and applied copious amounts of marine grease.
Unsealed the female tubes and loaded the female tubes with copious amounts of marine grease as well. Used a lint free rag to ensure the grease was delivered throughout the tube to the best of my ability. Thinking a zerc fitting may make sense at some point in the future.
Gathered up the wife and kids and we were able to get the rack back into the female posts with only one ratchet strap on one post. I found this to be amazing as the posts are at least 6 feet apart and the rack weighs over 150 lbs.
Reinstalled the gas springs, and ratcheted the rack down. I am switching from 4 100 lb gas springs to 4 75 lb gas springs, and if needed will go down to 50 lb gas springs to get it right.
Tent arrives tomorrow as do the 75 lb gas springs. Will update with pics before the end of the week.
First trip is Oct 9, amazed it is all coming together with a little time to create an awning.....
I am learning to weld, been laying down everything from blobs to some reasonably nice welds. One of the things I have found is that if you get good penetration, blobs hold just as well as a good clean weld. Grinding takes time, but its nice to be doing my own welds.
After all the welding, grinding, painting, etc. I was having some issues with the rack moving up and down. To date I have been using my kids as ballast as the tent won't arrive till tomorrow. The action on the up and down went from fairly smooth to very difficult. I was especially concerned with the up action as previously, once we removed the weight, the rack would move on its own, this no longer happened.
My son and I used some of the jacks I am using as stabilizers for the trailer to lift the rack out of the female tubes welded into the trailer. We then proceeded to empty a few cans of brake clean into the female tubes and used some rags to clean out the gunk that had built up. Followed that up with some compressed air. The volume of metal shavings and particles was amazing. Once clean, I sealed up these tubes with painters tape (other than zip ties and duct tape, how did we ever survive without painters tape?)
Hit the male tubes with some brake clean, wiped them down and decided to clean them up with some 3M sanding pads on my new right angle grinder. My arsenal of air tools has increase significantly, and this makes me happy! Ground the male tubes down a bit. Noticed some decent gouges from metal shavings in the male tubes. Wiped them down and applied copious amounts of marine grease.
Unsealed the female tubes and loaded the female tubes with copious amounts of marine grease as well. Used a lint free rag to ensure the grease was delivered throughout the tube to the best of my ability. Thinking a zerc fitting may make sense at some point in the future.
Gathered up the wife and kids and we were able to get the rack back into the female posts with only one ratchet strap on one post. I found this to be amazing as the posts are at least 6 feet apart and the rack weighs over 150 lbs.
Reinstalled the gas springs, and ratcheted the rack down. I am switching from 4 100 lb gas springs to 4 75 lb gas springs, and if needed will go down to 50 lb gas springs to get it right.
Tent arrives tomorrow as do the 75 lb gas springs. Will update with pics before the end of the week.
First trip is Oct 9, amazed it is all coming together with a little time to create an awning.....
dstock
Explorer
Looking good! Looking forward to seeing more pics when the rain stops!
It sounds like you are just starting out with welding, can I ask what you are using for a welder? I am going to be learning to weld while building my M101, hoping to pick up something used to get me started.
Great build!
Mark Harley
Expedition Leader
The easiest way to add the coupler you want is to weld a 2" receiver tube under the Nose V.
Taking the surge lunette off will lighten the tongue too.
Taking the surge lunette off will lighten the tongue too.
I bought a used flux core welder. I set it to KILL mode and it does fairly well. Not as clean or pretty as the better welders, but a good place to start.
Thanks Mark. Here is my thought.
Figure out if I can put in ebrakes and keep the emergency brakes without swapping out the Axle. I know its big and heavy, but so am I.
Once I get that figured out, pintle and surge brake goes and max coupler goes in.
There may also need to be a period of rest for my credit card.....
Overland Workshop & Rally in Oct, a back country adventure weekend in Bald Eagle SF in November. Its time to stop building and time to start using.
I'm sure my list of improvements after those trips will be substantial.
Figure out if I can put in ebrakes and keep the emergency brakes without swapping out the Axle. I know its big and heavy, but so am I.
Once I get that figured out, pintle and surge brake goes and max coupler goes in.
There may also need to be a period of rest for my credit card.....
Overland Workshop & Rally in Oct, a back country adventure weekend in Bald Eagle SF in November. Its time to stop building and time to start using.
I'm sure my list of improvements after those trips will be substantial.
dstock
Explorer
LOL, I think I will do the same, see if I can pick up a used Hobart 140 or the like.