Project Mini Hägglund

[Steinbruchsoldat]

Started working on the track assemblies today. First i took the left one off:

I just lowered the wheels. Now the track assemblies aren`t level, but i don`t care for now:

Then i ran out of shielding gas and can`t get it refilled before monday. So i finished it off with my stick welder:

Then i looked for some work where i wouldn`t need the welder. So i started looking for the oil leak. I think it`s leaking between the block and the front cover plate where the oil pump is:

Doesn`t look better under the cover:

When i called it a day. I just couldn`t get that oil pump out and because of that i couldn`t remove the cover plate. Anyone has an idea how to get that oil pump out?

 

[Dgurley2000]

Then i ran out of shielding gas and can`t get it refilled before monday. So i finished it off with my stick welder:

Most Home Depots have cylinder exchange programs

 

[chilliwak]

Sorry to hear about your oil pump problems:Wow1: Steinez! I wish I knew more about Subaru technologies, otherwise I would help.

 

[scrubber3]

You may have to remove the oil pan to get the pump out.


Sent from my iPad

 

[deadbeat son]

Most Home Depots have cylinder exchange programs

Most Home Depots aren't located in Germany.

 

[Dgurley2000]

Most Home Depots aren't located in Germany.

'Twas a joke.

 

[AeroNautiCal]

Perhaps ask on the Subaru Justy Forum, Tech Section.

http://subarujusty.proboards.com/index.cgi

 

[deadbeat son]

'Twas a joke.

I'll be the first to admit, most jokes on the internet go right over my head!

 

[Steinbruchsoldat]

Ok, so i had to pull the oil pan. In order to do that i had to pull the engine again. Well i`m getting better at that, took me just about 30mins...

And everything taken apart:

I`m going to seal it and put it back together tomorrow...

 

[Steinbruchsoldat]

Here`s the problem:

Everything back together:

I have to make a new, length adjustable mount for that. Any ideas?

 

[chilliwak]

Steinez, I say leave the bearing in the original place and add an idler wheel that can be adjusted up and down to increase/decrease tension. I can see 2 obvious advantages to this. First, and most important, the bearing is located where it should be, and does not have to be loosened to readjust the tension. Secondly, you can add an idler wheel, which does not even have to be toothed, somewhere approximately in the middle between your drive sprocket and your drive shaft. This has the advantage of being easy to adjust and it also allows you to keep the tracks on the sprockets because it is located approximately between your two sources of power(drive shaft and track drive sprocket) serving as guide for the long chain. Do yourself the favor and keep the problem of long chain travel to a minimum. Cheers, Chilli.

 

[Steinbruchsoldat]

The adjusting mount is not for tensioning the chain, just to align ist perfect and make it easy to take it off. I already sourced some tensioners to adjust the tension of the chains and I'm going to mount them if needed...
I also came up with a pretty good idea for the mounts, i just don't have time to make them now, because i have to swap engines on my neigthbors Jaguar...

Oh, i'm going to buy a lathe if the price is good...

 

[chilliwak]

Wicked Steinez, please keep us updated as usual with your progress! Cheers, Chilli.

 

[Steinbruchsoldat]

Started with the new mounts for the bearing blocks today:

Al welded up:

There will be all thread through those tubes. This way i can adjust it with two nuts...

 

[redthies]

A simple yet effective solution. I take it you are not worried about how changing the angle at which gear and chain mesh will affect things? I suppose there won't be a huge amount of change just tensioning a bit...