Project Nomad: 1986 GMC Jimmy Sierra Classic

[Darkrider]

That truck sounds wicked! I love the cutout in the passenger side running board for the exhaust. So ghetto! The rear bumper extension looks funky too. If you do make a camper thing for the other K5 let me know. I can give you some light weight options that could work for you. Thanks for posting that vid. Cheers, Chilli...

It is set up like that on both sides as it is just straight pipes off of the manifolds. However that set up will be changed. Most likely the same over all configuration but with a pair of glasspacks or turbo mufflers with the tips moved back to closer to the rear wheels. Kind of like how the exhaust on the Canyonaro build on here is set up. The rear bumper..well that i think is basically because they left the mount brackets for both the stock bumper and the truck step bumper in place and just bolted them together lol. Like i said earlier the current chrome bumper will be moved to my 2wd and its original step bumper will serve as the base for this trucks new swing out bumper. So new brackets will be made that will also have bracing for the swing outs. More then likely the swing out pivot will be on the brackets and just going through a hole in the step. I will def be in touch with you if i do in fact go the camper K5 route. Ideally i would like to keep it within the body of the K5 so i can use a standard truck tail gate on it still as means of a sort of mini deck when it is down and well as a step out of the camper of course.

A much simpler solution then putting in a c-clip Eliminator kit would be just a switch to three quarter ton axles their dime a dozen they can be found most anywhere the only thing you really need is a conversion U-joint for the rear end

Also adding the expense of new wheels and tires to switch to 8 lug. I have considered the idea a couple times to be honest and just doing a 6 lug swap on my 2wd reusing the rear axle from this. However as pointed out above the trucks use will not be severe enough to justify the move to HD axles.

 

[zoomad75]

I wouldn't sweat the c-clip eliminator for the type of plans you have for the truck. Most of the c-clip eliminators I've seen in use on the drag race side of the auto world is they don't seal up well. Drive it smart and keep your right foot in check and you'll not have a problem.

 

[Darkrider]

I wouldn't sweat the c-clip eliminator for the type of plans you have for the truck. Most of the c-clip eliminators I've seen in use on the drag race side of the auto world is they don't seal up well. Drive it smart and keep your right foot in check and you'll not have a problem.

Fair enough, Will still probably consider it for the 2wd as that truck will see some drag strip duty but i am probably at a low enough power level with it i can probably get away without it there as well. If it does get to the point i need them...well that is probably time to consider a 9" Ford for that truck.

 

[zoomad75]

I will say this I wheeled the hell out of my old 75 K5 with the 12bolt c-clip rear axle and D44 front. That truck had a manual trans too, so the driveline shock from dumping the clutch was heavy. I was always cautious when off road as I was afraid of snapping a shaft on either end. I never did break a shaft on the 12bolt. I did however break the 12bolt about 3 blocks from my house when it spit a tooth off of the pinion gear out the rear cover. Score that one for a 40 year old axle just finally giving up the ghost. My 91 has a 14bolt full floater. I don't have the fear of snapping a rear shaft anymore.

I totally understand the expense in changing wheels going to a full floating 8 lug axle, but the upside is you won't break it with a 305. EVER!

 

[Darkrider]

I will say this I wheeled the hell out of my old 75 K5 with the 12bolt c-clip rear axle and D44 front. That truck had a manual trans too, so the driveline shock from dumping the clutch was heavy. I was always cautious when off road as I was afraid of snapping a shaft on either end. I never did break a shaft on the 12bolt. I did however break the 12bolt about 3 blocks from my house when it spit a tooth off of the pinion gear out the rear cover. Score that one for a 40 year old axle just finally giving up the ghost. My 91 has a 14bolt full floater. I don't have the fear of snapping a rear shaft anymore.

I totally understand the expense in changing wheels going to a full floating 8 lug axle, but the upside is you won't break it with a 305. EVER!

What does not help matters is the fact i do know where i could possibly lay hands on some 8 lug diffs. I believe the pair is a 14 ff rear and either a D44 HD front or D60 front end. The thought was they were actually out of a CUCV so quite likely the D60/14 FF combo they used in those trucks. So that is a thought i suppose. Cheap way into them is some stock steel wheels from an old 8 lug truck or a set of PYO style wheels from a later GMT800. However the later 10 bolts like what is in this truck are of similar strength level to the 12 bolt you had. Like you pointed out above with the trucks intended purpose of use i will probably be fine with the 10 bolts. If i did ever swap to 8 lug i could always use the 10 bolts to upgrade a Jeep YJ or CJ to full width axles i suppose...

 

[Darkrider]

One thing i have noticed while looking up more info on the 10 bolts is that they are comparable in strength to the Dana 44. I knew the front was compatible with the D44 for parts from the knuckles outward. Which does lend itself to the idea of swapping on D44 8 lug knuckles and swapping in a D60 or 14b FF rear diff.

But on the flipside There is also the option of converting a Ford 9" rear diff to 6 lug to replace the rear end and keep the stock front axle. This idea is a bit more doable as i have access to several 9" diffs.

 

[zoomad75]

One thing i have noticed while looking up more info on the 10 bolts is that they are comparable in strength to the Dana 44. I knew the front was compatible with the D44 for parts from the knuckles outward. Which does lend itself to the idea of swapping on D44 8 lug knuckles and swapping in a D60 or 14b FF rear diff.

But on the flipside There is also the option of converting a Ford 9" rear diff to 6 lug to replace the rear end and keep the stock front axle. This idea is a bit more doable as i have access to several 9" diffs.

You are right, from the knuckles out, a D44 and 10b share the same parts. That is also true of the 6 lug or 8 lug versions. Yes, they made 8 lug 10 bolts on 3/4 ton trucks. Only the one tons got the D60. You could just get the hub and rotor asseblies for an 8 lug D44 or 10b and swap it onto your existing axle.

I know a 9" axle can be stronger than the 10bolt. However, you need to factor in work to swap spring pads to the correct location, drilling out the axle flanges to fit the 6 lug wheels and adapting the hydraulic and park brake setups. Add changing gears to match if they don't. Sure it's going to be stronger over a 10b, but for all the effort you could have just went 8 lug and bolted in a 14b and swapped the hubs and rotors on the front.

One other option is a 14b semi floater. Typically found on light duty 3/4tons or 3/4 ton Suburbans. Its still a c-clip axle, but it's all larger than a 10b and with a 305 it would be bulletproof.

 

[Darkrider]

You are right, from the knuckles out, a D44 and 10b share the same parts. That is also true of the 6 lug or 8 lug versions. Yes, they made 8 lug 10 bolts on 3/4 ton trucks. Only the one tons got the D60. You could just get the hub and rotor asseblies for an 8 lug D44 or 10b and swap it onto your existing axle.

I know a 9" axle can be stronger than the 10bolt. However, you need to factor in work to swap spring pads to the correct location, drilling out the axle flanges to fit the 6 lug wheels and adapting the hydraulic and park brake setups. Add changing gears to match if they don't. Sure it's going to be stronger over a 10b, but for all the effort you could have just went 8 lug and bolted in a 14b and swapped the hubs and rotors on the front.

One other option is a 14b semi floater. Typically found on light duty 3/4tons or 3/4 ton Suburbans. Its still a c-clip axle, but it's all larger than a 10b and with a 305 it would be bulletproof.

Great info once again. One other option is doing a 6 lug conversion to the 14b FF as well, but that brings the wheel problem up again due to center bore size. At least with the 8 lug front conversion i can use factory wheels. Guess it is just a matter of finding the D44 HD front hubs or the 10 bolt front hubs.

 

[Smileyshaun]

What does not help matters is the fact i do know where i could possibly lay hands on some 8 lug diffs. I believe the pair is a 14 ff rear and either a D44 HD front or D60 front end. The thought was they were actually out of a CUCV so quite likely the D60/14 FF combo they used in those trucks. So that is a thought i suppose. Cheap way into them is some stock steel wheels from an old 8 lug truck or a set of PYO style wheels from a later GMT800. However the later 10 bolts like what is in this truck are of similar strength level to the 12 bolt you had. Like you pointed out above with the trucks intended purpose of use i will probably be fine with the 10 bolts. If i did ever swap to 8 lug i could always use the 10 bolts to upgrade a Jeep YJ or CJ to full width axles i suppose...

If it's out of a cucv it should also have a Detroit locker in the rear , if you don't want them I gladly take them

 

[chilliwak]

Mr Darkrider cant you just go out and kick your truck or have a couple of beers close to it so we can see progress pics!?

 

[Darkrider]

Found out a bit more about those axles. Still unsure if they are CUCV axles..however they are a D60 and 14b FF matched pair with springs and wheels. Bonus points for the fact the front has the front knuckles with the top mounted steering arms. Which makes cross over steering a much easier project. Also allowing me to consider doing the 52" spring swap to the front end for up to 6" of lift. If i go that route i will probably use DIY4xs B-52 kit for the mounts which will also allow me to work on mounts for a bumper using the same bolts as the mounts. More then likely will also weld the bumper mounts to the chassis to increase strength.

 

[chilliwak]

Sounds like you have a nice pair of axels for your rig. We are all looking forward to seeing you tuck those puppys under your rig. Do you have any pics of the axels? Cheers, Chilli....

 

[cyclic]

Another option, which I have, is to swap to a 99-07 new style 10 bolt. It's a really easy swap if you use one from a truck as apposed to a SUV (spring vs coils). All you do is remove the bump stops and weld on new spring pads, then move the shock mounts. Even the driveshaft with bolt up. Same 6 lug but bigger lugs. Axle is also 4 inches wider which evens out the front to rear width. Disk brakes are also a factory option. Even the parking brakes are pretty easy to connect. I did it to match the Hummer H3 front brake swap I did. I have large hat over rotor 4 piston H3 front brakes and a 2004 SIlverado rear disk brake axle. I did have to change to 17 inch rims with the propper offset, but the brake upgrades are all worth it. My surburban stops like a new truck. Included pics of the front brakes and the axle width with it installed.

 

[Darkrider]

Sounds like you have a nice pair of axels for your rig. We are all looking forward to seeing you tuck those puppys under your rig. Do you have any pics of the axels? Cheers, Chilli....

Not yet as they are in BC currently. Still trying to see if i can get my hands on them. However...i am chasing some leads on both a '70 K5 and an early square K5 with the full removable top on it. The early square is a '73-75 as they went to the half cab like my '86 in '76. This K5 has no drivetrain and no axles...seems like a lot but it does lead to some ideas to use the aforementioned 8 lug axles along with a Cadillac 500 i will have in my posession by summer after the car it is in goes through the local demo derby. Other option of course is the idea of using the original axles from this truck under this but i feel the 500 and the 8 lugs will be a better match. More then likely will do the 52" spring swap on this rig as well to give it the stance it deserves. Ironically enough the '70 K5 is at the same place as the axles so if i can get my paws on it as well it would be a simple task of loading them up in the back of it for the trip back to sask.

Another option, which I have, is to swap to a 99-07 new style 10 bolt. It's a really easy swap if you use one from a truck as apposed to a SUV (spring vs coils). All you do is remove the bump stops and weld on new spring pads, then move the shock mounts. Even the driveshaft with bolt up. Same 6 lug but bigger lugs. Axle is also 4 inches wider which evens out the front to rear width. Disk brakes are also a factory option. Even the parking brakes are pretty easy to connect. I did it to match the Hummer H3 front brake swap I did. I have large hat over rotor 4 piston H3 front brakes and a 2004 SIlverado rear disk brake axle. I did have to change to 17 inch rims with the proper offset, but the brake upgrades are all worth it. My suburban stops like a new truck. Included pics of the front brakes and the axle width with it installed.

View attachment 446565

You def caught my attention. This would be the slightly later 8.6" ring gear correct? I do know where there is an old V6 powered '99 or '00 Silverado atm that i could probably get the axle from cheap. This is of course assuming that they used the same 10 bolt across the line up in those years. Also can you give me a bit more info on the H3 brake upgrade?

 

[cyclic]

For the front brakes.................. Pure Chevy Sex

The rear, yep larger 8.6 axle. Any 10 bolt spring axle is an easy job. The 99 up new style Silverado alxe is perfect for square bodies. The rims in my pics are close to zero offset. I've lost a couple pics in the photobucket crap, but have replaced most of them in the link. If you read the whole thread, I also cover the rear axle swap. No changes were required for the master cylinder, stocks works fine. And it is proportioned exactly for my burb, should be fine on a blazer, but a pick up might need to add an adjuster to the rear lines.

For the front, only things needed "custom" are cutting down the hub into a rotor over hub arangement, the brackets, and drilling hub and rotor for what ever lugs you decided on. I went 14x1.5 to match the new rear axle.