Project "Snapping Turtle": 1KZ-TE into a 2nd Gen 4Runner

[4Rescue]

If I was to do a swap it would likely be the VW 1.9L TDI (or maybe a 4.3L GM V6, LOL). The VW is all the speed and parts availability of the 22R-E with better gas mileage and low risk of damage to the W56. There are performance upgrades available I guess to some extent, I dunno. From the factory the 22R-E was 115 HP and 140 lb-ft. Most of the 1.9L variants are around 105HP and 175 lb-ft from VW. Seeing as mine is tired it would be at least a flat across swap and probably an improvement.

The Passat weighs 3,200 lbs with a payload of 1,000 lbs and got 42 MPG on the highway and 30-something in the city. So it's not unreasonable to expect my truck to see a jump. I get about 19~20 on the highway now and off highway it's in the 12~14 range. It might not see more than 25~30 on the pavement but I would expect a /very/ significant improvement in low range.

My 1991 weighs 3,300 (I've put it on a diet lately, even cutting off armor, gasp!) and has a payload of 1,400 lbs. I exceed the GVW slightly, but not much. It's around 4,750 lbs fully loaded with max outfit, so I'd be +500 lbs over the Passat. I think the experience would be fine, the turbo should be better overall since part the problem with my engine is being normally aspirated living at 5,200 ft and routinely driving up to 10,000' means it struggles a lot. When I go back to lower elevations it's noticeably faster.

Some very good points in that Dave... I think that my 4Runner is gonna be kind a "porky" aye, but I could see an older "1st Gen" Pickup being quite the little beast with that 1.9IDI VW engine in it and it sounds like he's got some serious work into it and making great power. As I say, I'm IMPRESSED aye... I for one am looking forward to a build thread on that truck of DJTC's aye...

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Spent this avro drilling (amazing what a new bit will do for progress) and actually found 3 other lines that were leaking/had blown and fixed those too. Ended up putting studs in place of the bolts so hopefully I'll never have another issue doing the replacement. I actually drilled the one I broke off down to nearly the same size as the standard bolt size then threaded it and made a 1/4-20 stud out of some rod-stock I had (lucky since I usually only have things I DON'T need...)



So, I THOUGHT I Conquered my T-Stat issue only to find that I'd put in WAY too cool a T-Stat (what I get for not searching/reading first) as the Parts guy said "Stock says 160*, but there's a 180*... we don;t have it in stock...160 should be great in that little engine". Yeah, WELL IT'S NOT. The bloody thing runs COLD. Hell I bet I could lug it down and haul a full Raft Trip load over all over the NW's elevations and never see the temp needle hit the 50% mark on the gauge... SO, now I'm on the hunt for a Dual-Stage (P# 90916-03079) unit but for the next few days I'm going to shroud my lower rad tank and see if I can;t fine tune the runnign temp till I can get the right T-stat cause I need to make a trip up to Mt. Hood and I'll be dammed if I'm going to leave it on the block and take the wifes Camry up there. Can;t sleep in the back of the Camry...
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In Diesel swap News, I spent the last hour of my day not at home, cleaning and breaking down my new axle...

Anyone know if there's a Scan-Gauge-like unit for a 1KZ-TE so I can see multiple parameters like EGT and fuel econ from the drivers seat??? I was going to just get the same Pyrometer/gauge set-up everyone is running on these then I started wondering... I'm gonna do some searching but if anyone's happening to read through my blather and knows of such a system for a rudimentary E-Controled Diesel let me know cause I'd LOVE to have that kind of "multi-info" system and not just a Pyro-gauge. Although now I'm also thinking that like a temp gauge on a regular truck I might be happier to have a constantly visable pyrometer (maybe a pillar pod style deal with a boost gauge and a trans-temp gauge as well). HMMMMMM.

Still waiting on my OME springs from TRDparts4U. Hopefully they actually HAD the springs cause OME is "backordered with not ETA on new stock" so if they;re waiting to get them from OME I'm back to a "stuck" point unless I build a spring pack of stuff the 81 axle/OME springs for a "Dieselcruiserhead" style FJ62/FJ80 hybrid system. I LOVE his 3rd Gen PU on that set-up (everything about it... Wonder what old Andre's up to lately with it???) but I'm guessing that I'm not really looking for QUITE the HC trail capacity he was when he did it and that's a LOT of un-sprung weight to add up front on top of the 250+ pounds the engine is going to weigh... Decisions decisions decisions. For now I'm PLANNING to try to IFS Hub swap but I may just do the 60-series Rotors w/V6 Calipers on stock hubs with 1.5" wheel spacers. I know there's a LOT of disagreement about wheel spacers, but I;ve SEEN Marlin and his truck and been out with them and followed him down the freeway several times... He's been running them for a LONG time and never had 1 issue so... I'm thinking that if it nets me better braking and simpler repairs then I'm going to do it.

Still gotta get:

* Pyrometer or possibly a Scan-Gauge type system }
* Boost Gauge > Hoping to pack all three of these into either a Pillar Pod or maybe one system/multi-gauge
* Trans Temp Gauge }
* 7-Pin trailer brake system/controler
* Coolant Filter
* BIG Aux Tranny cooler and find a way to remove the tranny cooling duties from the regular cooling system
* Various Fittings for this and that
* Axle/Birf Truss kit (maybe... Matt at LCNW like to make stuff so far be it from me to stop him playing with the welder/plasma cutter)
* Frame Plating in key regions (again we'll likely make these in shop)

Other "Not important to getting the truck running stuff"
* FLAT (like a Front Runner) Rack for the 2nd Gen:
- These look like they'd fit the bill if they make the right dimensions for what I want: FULL length over the cab.
http://www.rhinorack.com.au/products/roof-trays/pioneer-platforms

* 1-2"X1-2" Square grating/"cage" material (like you'd see in a "pet barrier") to cut to the shape of my rear-most windows for both a visual theft deterant (not gonna keep'm out but night make them THINK they can't get in) and for mounting lighter/readily accessible things like my EMS gear/Kit, Fire Ext, Flashlights and a place to hang a toiletries bag when we're sleeping in the back of the truck.

*Looking to see if I can score a Hilux Surf SSR rear spoiler w/3rd brake light. NO reason for this other then it looks "unique" and very "NON-USDM and I like that aye)

Good news is thanks to the LOVELY people at TRDPARTS4U, I've confirmed that my OME springs are ON THEIR WAY!!!!!! So Stoked!!!!!!! Thanks Barbra and Tish for the stunningly quick customer service and putting up with my long winded/whiny emails.

Cheers

Dave

 

[djtc]

Did you order the ome 79-85 front springs for your sas?

 

[Arclight]

I would weld a nut to the remaining stud and see if you can get it out. You will get more surface to put a wrench on, and the violent heating of the steel will tend to break the bond. Weld it on, wait about 20 seconds, then try turning it. As the hot steel starts to conduct into the the Aluminum head, the Al will expand much more than the steel bolt, and it will come right out. If the stud is in cast iron, it will probably still work, just not as dramatically.

Have you tried soaking the area in PB Blaster?

Arclight

My 1st Gen has been having weird cooling issues (losing coolant, none in the oil and randomly heating up etc... T-Stat issues I thought) and yesterday it finally blew... the T-Stat gasket thankfully, NOT the HG and the Upper-Rad. hose as well... BUT, first turn of the easily accessed right-hand (looking at the front of the engine) T-Stat housing bolt and "SNAP"... "Oh Great" I thought... yep, I napped it off. But then I took the upper half/outlet-pipe off and realized I had some stud to work with... well, two days and SEVERAL broken "high quality" extractor bits later, I still don't have the bolt out. I spent 6-hours on it and yeah... This reminds me of installing the OME suspension on the truck. One of the Steering Stab mounting bolts was completely seized/welded on and after several hours it finally broke the stud/let go and we didn't find it until a day later when we were mowing the yard and I saw a hunk of metal laying out there right before I ran over it with the tractor... and that was 75+ ft. directly backwards from where we were working on the truck.

I've drilled it, basically have it down to a 2mm hollowed out set of threads and it STILL won't come out. I'm wondering if I can find a way to quickly freeze whats left of it (maybe CO2) and hit it with a cold chissel lightly to get it to contract and break whatever ridiculous "bond" is keeping it in the last 5/8's of an inch of the threaded hole (which sadly is cast in such a way that you can't just drill it straight out and through the bottom. Breaking several extractor bits is also quite "fun" too... seriously, you'd THINK they'd make them a BIT better then they do considering WHAT they do, but no... They broke like

It was so hot here in Portland Today (I'll take 125+F in Australia over 80-90 in Portland ANY day... So bloody hot/sticky and we're not even on the east coast... YUK) that I couldn't even take pics or be bothered to try... Basically the 2nd bolt closest to the head on the T-Stat on an 89 22RE... is seized in there like nothing else... Man I wish I was rolling around in the new truck on days like this.

Cheers

Dave

Edit: HAHAHAHA a google search turns up So many threads of the EXACT same thing happening on "Yota-(questionable/hit-miss)Tech" HAHAHAHA. I feel SO much better knowing that many other people have done this. Seems a steel bolt into an aluminum casting, if not properly protected will cause electrolysis and bond the two together...

 

[4Rescue]

I would weld a nut to the remaining stud and see if you can get it out. You will get more surface to put a wrench on, and the violent heating of the steel will tend to break the bond. Weld it on, wait about 20 seconds, then try turning it. As the hot steel starts to conduct into the the Aluminum head, the Al will expand much more than the steel bolt, and it will come right out. If the stud is in cast iron, it will probably still work, just not as dramatically.

Have you tried soaking the area in PB Blaster?

Arclight

Thanks mate, I actually drilled and re-tapped it (I thought about welding onto it, AFTER I had butchered it and didn't have much to use... Soaked it in PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench and WD40 BUT, I got slipped a 160* Thermostat by the parts guy and so it was running stone cold. Then the Alternator took a dump on me (Brake/Charge lights both on) or maybe just the regulator.

All reasons that I really want the Diesel to get done here asap. It'll allow me to take the DD stress off the 1st Gen and let it get some maint. time spent on it.

On a REAL positive note though: TRDParts4U.com managed to get me my OME Springs (Thanks to Tish and Barbara and everyone else at TRDP4U) despite them being somewhat tough to get a hold of currently. I'm taking a break from cleaning and breaking down the axle right now and Monday Morning it's all going down to LCNW where the axle will get a nice fresh rebuild and gusseting job.

Cheers

Dave

 

[4Rescue]

Man I can't wait to see this all stuck under the front of my truck... {sigh} soon enough I guess... (BTW, the springs may well be backwarsd, I was just playing "imagine" todays since they were sitting there while I was finishing the clean-up job )

 

[Clay]

I think we are all real excited to see that thing go in. It's looking good!

 

[4Rescue]

I think we are all real excited to see that thing go in. It's looking good!

Thanks Clay, I have visions of a Surf version of a S.African 3rd Gen 4x4 SFA Pickups running through my mind and I can't WAIT to see it sitting in my driveway hahahaha. I feel like a kid who's been waiting for Xmas to come for well over a year...

Cheers

Dave

 

[4Rescue]

SO here's my beautiful new CAT Fuel/Wat Separator...



LITTLE bummed, I guess I'd never realized that in 88 or 89, the Pickups got 3" longer springs (52" vs 48" OME CS019R) cause that would have been what I went with for this truck but... O well, I know that the CS009R springs ride just fine (I've been living with them now for 8+ years on my 1st Gen) and really, this isn;t a truck made for hauling but through the desert, this (being where I am and what I like to do) is more of a "Timber Wagon" and it's gonna be sweet.

Unfortunately the heat wave Portland is going through (and Summer in general) has led LCNW to be literally SWAMPED in "honey-do" maintenance jobs (read: the "not fun" part of owning a 4wd/Cruiser shop) and we've got some logistics planning for how to start attacking the build to sus out but... parts are all there. I think if I can get some free time this week I'm going to go down and tear the axle apart and get the Wiring Loom out cause I may bring it home and build a peg-board for it and srtat working out what all needs to be extended while they're doign the cutting/welding. Also need to get the hubs off the Axle anyway so i can clean them up and re-paint them... thinking of going to LC Gold on Black vs the "mini-truck" Red on Black but we'll see.

Anyone know what company makes beefy replacement steering arms for the SFA's that are NOT for Hy-Steer or "6-shooter" style knuckles??? I'm still trying to decide on my steering arrangement but I know i want to beef up those arms from the stock units.

Most of all, I'm just getting antsy to get this build going now that I've FINALLY pulled all the parts together...

Still have to track down a little coolant leak in my 1st Gen and do a few other things to keep her happy in her old age (re-did all the belts and swapped out the "too cold" thermo only to find that the one I put in was a 180* unit not 160* like I thought and I STILL don't have the correct 190* unit {although I can't really see 10*'s making the truck suddenly run THAT much warmer }... UGH, parts stores. I love'm and I hate'm sometimes. Not the people, but their computers that give all KINDS of wrong information and lead to these "issues" aye). PLUS, wouldn't you know it, the XJ of my Dads I was using while my Toyota sat on the sideline went down with a bad starter (a week of driving/living with the XJ has reminded me of the myriad of reasons I now drive Toyotas) so while some folks won't be TOO happy with me, looks like next week is going to be "all Truck" work of one kind or another for me... Oh and it's about time to move into our new place so I'll FINALLY have a real SHOP to work in even if it's nothing like RMP&O's level of "shop", it'll be nice to have a good place to work that's not my folks garage... So that'll be awesome too.



Cheers

Dave

 

[Clay]

Steering is going to be the problem.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/674078-low-lift-sas-4.html#post11719536

This thread on pirate is pretty good, the link is direct to what someone did that is probably what you'll need to do. Ironically enough, I saw an old AllPro original crossover steering arm at the PMC swap meet yesterday and almost picked it up. Maybe email AllPro on the board here and ask if they have a used one laying around? I do know that it's the drag link that is the problem hitting the frame and maybe your hard to find oil pan, so most folks just move everything as far forward as possible and use normal high steering pieces.

The longer springs started with the 3rd gen truck, but I agree that it probably isn't too big of a setback.

 

[4Rescue]

Steering is going to be the problem.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/674078-low-lift-sas-4.html#post11719536

This thread on pirate is pretty good, the link is direct to what someone did that is probably what you'll need to do. Ironically enough, I saw an old AllPro original crossover steering arm at the PMC swap meet yesterday and almost picked it up. Maybe email AllPro on the board here and ask if they have a used one laying around? I do know that it's the drag link that is the problem hitting the frame and maybe your hard to find oil pan, so most folks just move everything as far forward as possible and use normal high steering pieces.

The longer springs started with the 3rd gen truck, but I agree that it probably isn't too big of a setback.

YUP... Spot on summation as usual Clay (and thanks for the heads up on emailing All-Pro aye). That oil pan wasn;t 'cheap" by any means and I'm REALLY not wanting to hack it up so... I was thinking the same thing though, that I'd move the axle as far forward as possible and MAYBE be able to run a hybrid steering system to clear everything. Fortunately It's a "blank slate" and we can adjust the rear suspension (it's just tacked in to be able to move the truck around at this point) to match the front height if it ends up "needing" to be a bit taller but yeah... I'm gonna be real interested to see how the steering all comes together and what we end up having to do for a solution aye. I found a thread from some S.African guy who has a 1KZ powered factory SFA 3rd gen Hilux P/U (I call them "3rd gens", I mean the PU's that look just like my 95 4Runner) and he had to do some "interesting" hacking to the oil-pan to run a true Hysteer system including taking a giant chunk out of the front section and welding on an old oil filter and other 'warts" to compensate for the volumetric loss in the pan from the notch. He's been running it for several years now no worries and I have the pics/measurements, but I'm a LITTLE hesitant to go that route just yet. Honestly, I think that given my driving style and what I'll end up doing with the truck (as in it's not going to be out running
"extreme" crawling trails... at least not RIGHT away hahahaha), I can see maybe just making a REALLY burly cross-over link and leaving it in the stock position with some custom beefed up steering arms... But I'm gonna be PMing All-Pro here in 30-seconds and see if they maybe have any of those arms hiding about aye. Again thanks for the link and the heads up mate.

Cheers

Dave

 

[4Rescue]

Well, another somewhat boring update, BUT, progress is being made and the project isn't dead...

Got the axle stripped, devoid of all the brackets I wont need etc. and my SAS kit came in last week so everything's ready for "the big cut"...



Then it SHOULD be a matter of dropping the engine into place for final location and plumbing/wiring after that. I'm not going for "factory correct" in the under-hood looks department. I'll likely use some stainless and silicone sections for the intake ducting to the snorkel. It'll give it that extra "JDM" flavor I'm also ordering in a 3"dump-pipe (looks like a work of art, not sure I want to put it on the truck) with a convenient bung for the Pyrometer I just received, and may even order up a full 3" turbo-back exhaust depending on what it looks like it's gonna run to make one from scratch. I'm also removing the cooling loop from the trans to the rad and putting in a huge stand-alone Trans-cooler in place so as to never have any corruption between the two systems or the overheating problems associated when towing heavy loads/pulling long grades.

Other then that, life work and ridiculous weather (I'll take 125*F in NE Australia over 90 in Portland any day to work in...) have all been conspiring to slow things down even more as well as waiting on all the parts to be here lined up so that once we cut the IFS out, the truck can get worked on seriously without having it sitting there taking up room with now way to move it.

In diesel related news I just worked out a deal with my a friend of my Dads who salvages and clears old Diesel heating oil... I haul him over cut fire-wood (which I have coming out my ears), he gives me diesel. :wings: I've currently got 88gal in a salvage barrel and a 600 gal gravity feed tank that I'm putting on my property (both with filtering and water-sep. systems on them)... It's gonna be like being back on the Station in OZ all over again!!! WOO HOO!!!! Plus with the CAT FWS on the truck, this thing will happily run off diesel anywhere I can get it from. Now I'm looking for a possible aux tank for the truck...

Cheers

Dave

 

[Clay]

How's things going?

 

[4Rescue]

Well Clay it's "going", just not all too quickly, but I haven't given up or faded off into the aether like can (sadly) happen with projects sometimes...

Been a wild month in general, I ended up getting some mutant Upper Resp. Infection that knocked me flat on my back (and has a ton of kids with resp. problems in the local ICU's about town) like I was a pack a day smoker. I gotta say, having a "chest cold" in sunny, 80*+ weather is... annoying. As is trying to work in dusty weather when you're hacking and coughing up a lung... SO, now that I've over-shared, and we've gotten that bit of graphic descriptive awfulness out of the way.

We managed to get the axle completely re-built and hoping to have it in the truck in short order next week so we can have it rolling/move-able. I've just got eh bodies of the Asin hubs on the axle right now (not the best picture), but I've got them apart and I'm re-furbing/re-painting them so they'll look brand-new. I'm still trying to decide if I'm gonna go red/black like the mini-trucks or do them in gold/black like the LC's

Here's the axle all pretty and ready to rumble:

- mid 80's FJ60 vented Rotors (thanks to everyone who led me down that path, it worked out PERFECTLY considering it's being built at a big time LC shop... didn't even have to order anything, just walked to a shelf and grabbed what we needed. That is so nice!!!)
- FJ80 TRE's (So much better then the stock mini-truck bits)
- A nice big thick walled DOM tie-rod (I'm sure I'll find a way to bend it one day, but it's gonna take some real work)
- Diff-armor plate on the pumpkin and a NICE, thick truss on the long side.
- re-cycled V6 calipers from the "soon to be discarded" IFS front end.
- Spider Trax wheel spacers

After the axle, the real fun begins as we start to stuff the engine in (should be soon after the axle goes in to help sus out ride height/a level stance, just got to try and guestimate how much settling the front springs will have to them) and tackle the wiring. I'm looking into ordering a pre-made 3" stainless Exhaust for it to save time and have parts ready to go as needed.

I've also decided to get the "base" truck rolling/driving so I can work out any bugs, and then do the "extra bits" like lights and all the other kit over a bit more time as I decide on what exactly I want to run. I'm spending money like I'm a richer man already, and I've changed my mind so many times in the last few months that I'm getting that irrational fear of ordering anything lest I run across a 'better"/different option (silly, I know but them's the facts)... A good example is the lights: I've got my heart and mind set on an LED light bar, but I keep seeing all kind of alternatives to the well known "superbright LED" or the "TOTL" Rigid ind. units that people seem to be very happy with and the prices have been very enticing. With the money I'm throwing at this truck, every penny counts and if I can get a decent part for a significantly lower price I'm likely to make that compromise even if it's not quite as well made as the top End units (although I have heard nothing but good things about the knock-off Flea-bay kits so I'm interested to see how they stack up against the well know high-end brands), and, in the interest of my typically over-sharing nature... I'm a bit Scotch when I can rationalize it aye HAHAHAHA. I also need to work out if I can find a way to make a Frontrunner flat rack fit the roof tracks of a 2nd Gen 4Runner, or a good alternative (I'm def. set on a flat "basketless" style rack and the Frontrunner is exactly what I've been picturing, but they don't have a 2nd Gen 4Runner option). I'm also trying to design the bumpers and decide whether I will use my current rims on my 1st Gen, or if I want to find some steelies and run those (which then leads to me hem-ing and haw-ing about whether to go flat silver or black on whatever I run). I still really like my current rims, but I kinda think some old-school, LC style steelies would look awesome on this "very utilitarian" type build (and remind me of my HJ70 and many of the 70's back in OZ).

These are the rims on my 1st Gen:


These are the rims I'm thinking of as the 1st alternative (2nd would be the more modern take-off steelies with the holes in them like a lot of guys run).


Any opinions/advice on anything is, as always, greatly appreciated. Everyone who's read this thread and offered advice or given me ideas (like yourself Clay) has been great and it's why I'm really only putting my build up on this site. Good folks make for a good "community" makes for a good place to bounce ideas around aye.

So, as I say, it's "going". I am however very excited to be able to share more progress here very soon...

Cheers

Dave

 

[Clay]

Well, sorry to hear about your cold. I hate that stuff.

The axle looks great, that thing is going to be awesome. I'd stick with the red/black combo personally.

The wheel thing is on my mind too. The steel wheels look awesome, I've thought about buying five FJ steelies a few times now, but I don't know about going with 16" rims so I hesitate. The thing you'll have to remember is that you'll need a spacer to match the rear track width and while you are spacing things out you can make some space for lack of offset. Aluminum wheels are OK too, and I'll tell you that I know first hand that they are just as strong as steel wheel. Personally I like the combo you have on your first gen. Weren't you going to go with a tire taller than 33" though?

On the ship I work on we have been switching all of our lights over to LED's with good success. We've been using these guys and they work really good.

http://www.fisheriessupply.com/rigid-industries-m-series-dually-d2-led-light

They have a few styles at that store. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a brand of light other than rigid and we have a few that aren't and are just as good. These things are way brighter than HID's and they hold up way better.

Keep up the good work and don't let a little time phase you. I've been working on my 4runner longer than you have and it's no where near done either!

 

[4Rescue]

Thanks Clay, I think I am going to go with the Red/black color combo on the hubs and thanks for the link, that's exactly what I'm looking for aye.

Tire wise, I've been going back and forth based or researching gearing and final drive ratio and where this engine's happiest. I think it would happily turn 35's, but I'm thinking it'd be happier (and would obviously brake better) with the 33's. May look for a set of used 35's just to test the theory and have for off-road use but keep the 33/10.50's for street/highway use. WHICH tires are another debate... I love my BFG AT's and I'd run another set in a heart beat, but I wish I could find something a bit taller but still in the 10.50 width (sadly not really possible unless I go to an LTB or an SSR Swamper or something that aggressive/heavy) and I've kind of had my sights set on some Maxxis Bighorns to try them out on the truck cause I like the "light MT/HD AT" tread and think it'd be pretty good for here in the NW and the roads/trails this truck will see. They're also slightly larger in diameter then the BFG's are being metric 255/85's but then that would mean I'd definitely be buying new wheels too so... Decisions decisions.

Cheers

Dave