Project Victory_Overland 08 LR3 Build Thread!

[Victory_Overland]

Some great MPGs

Last night I did some recall and such with the GAP tool and filled up the tank. I left early for the North Shore in hopes to beat traffic and have a smooth ride. Granted the avg speed is not applicable to most mainland driving but here in Hawaii speeds are pretty slow and lots of stop and go.

Early morning drive to Turtle Bay for my moonlight side job, avg speed 50mph and I was getting 20.7 mpg.

Front Runner roof rack with ARB awning and 2 x Tactical Rover bumpers.........I'm saying that's not too bad.



21.1mpg on the way home! Although much slower pace!

 

[sunrisehiker]

@sunrisehiker do you know what the output is on the Denso? Reason I'm asking is because the point of this was to upgrade the output over the factory alternator for my dual battery set up. If the Denso is a factory rated output than I'm in the same boat as what I have now.

LR3/4 are known for weak charging systems so we are looking for reliable upgrades for heavy duty operation.



Absolutely Ray_G, I'm patiently awaiting the long mileage results on this alternator buy. Also would like to see charging output to see what the gains are going to be compared to factory.

Yes,yes, yes...I understand, dis not look back to realize that unit off ebay pulls 260
Amps.
Now ,I understand , our alternators output is strictly regulated by CJB and bunch of other factors , so if the software and related hardware( alternator) is rated to a 150 amps, why anybody would assume that 260 amps fleebay alternator would provide more juice when needed , when Centraln Junction Box dows not know or care if new unit is more powerful and " need " for electicity is strictly regulated ?Makes sense ?
So , basiclly you not goona get a 260 amps even if you need it from computer that was programmed to a factory specified 150 amps alternator.

 

[Victory_Overland]

Yes,yes, yes...I understand, dis not look back to realize that unit off ebay pulls 260
Amps.
Now ,I understand , our alternators output is strictly regulated by CJB and bunch of other factors , so if the software and related hardware( alternator) is rated to a 150 amps, why anybody would assume that 260 amps fleebay alternator would provide more juice when needed , when Centraln Junction Box dows not know or care if new unit is more powerful and " need " for electicity is strictly regulated ?Makes sense ?
So , basiclly you not goona get a 260 amps even if you need it from computer that was programmed to a factory specified 150 amps alternator.

Higher output alternators also charge at lower speeds, such as idle whereas our factory alternator does not. I won't get into all of that, but I think there is some benefit for higher charging rates than what we have in our LR right now. But, this is why I am asking and not telling...haha

 

[Victory_Overland]

New Front Bumper Idea

I think most know I have been toying with the idea of an aluminum bull bar front bumper for some time now. Over the last few weeks, the design is coming along and it looks like it's going to be a "GO" for a one off at a minimum on my rig. Who knows, if it works out, it might be available for purchase. Regardless, my good buddy in NorCal, Josh is running the CAD drawings now and we plan for a clear lexan mock-up and then go from there into aluminum construction.

The design is in the works. Steel winch plate to carry all of the load of the bumper assembly, winch and winch load. There is not going to be too much sexiness here, pretty much a standard winch plate able to mate the aluminum bumper cover. The aluminum bumper will be bolted over the steel winch plate similar to other designs, only the bumper will be comprised of 1/4" and 3/16" aluminum in specific areas for protection and weight saving in others. I'll have concentration on "as close to stock or better approach angles" which will ensure I do not need to worry too much about bashing the aluminum bumper on much. The goal is to be less than 100lbs with the winch plate/bumper design without the winch installed (That is a tough metric to meet, but if I set the standard, I'll find weighs to keep it close to the standard or exceed the goal to the maximum extent possible). The bull bar will be removable with headlight protection and limb riser mounts.

I love my TR bumper, but I hate the weight of it. Remember, at the time I was limited to either repair back to factory or go bull bar since the front was smashed. Had I not had the accident, I most likely would have went hidden winch; actually I am positive I would have!

I do not even have a winch installed so I can't fathom the amount of weight the winch plate has on the truck, with steel bumper, winch installed and pulling weight. I believe my front TR bumper weighs about 140lbs without a winch installed; ARB I am sure is comparable.

So wish me luck and throw the chicken bones if needed for some voodoo love. It's gonna be a slow process as I have some work travel coming up but the design is the key factor in the first place and it is already moving.

 

[perkj]

Unclear why you "hate" the weight...what specially about the weight are you referring to that you can explicitly state is the result of the weight? I personally think it may be a waste of time and money to save a mere 40 lbs. 40 lbs won't make are brake anything when it come to the vehicle dynamics of a 7000 lbs vehicle.

You could likely save 40 lbs switching to lithium batteries espically if you're running dual batteries

 

[Victory_Overland]

That's 40lbs "minimum" weight savings, most likely more in just bumper material. Just a guess right now but I'm thinking it will be more in the end. Add anywhere between 65-90lbs for average 9500lb winch weight (depending on steel cable or synthetic rope) and the weight continues to climb, all in front of the axle which significantly moves the CG forward and the moment for leverage/stresses on the front driveline. Then 90-100lb per side on sliders!

All of this adds up in many many ways and reduces driveline life, tire wear and gas mileage (=range)!

Oh and don't forget the approach angle, anti-corrosion properties, and the "nobody else has one" advantage! Lol

Good idea on the lithium batteries! I'll put that on the list. fantastic.

 

[zelatore]

hmmm....where is this 'Josh' in 'NorCal'?

A number of us in the NorCal rover club wouldn't mind a look at this bumper design.

 

[Victory_Overland]

hmmm....where is this 'Josh' in 'NorCal'?

A number of us in the NorCal rover club wouldn't mind a look at this bumper design.

When the design is done, I'm sure the finalized product will be available for reproduction.

Josh is a good buddy of mine. Hot rodder, biker, and owns his own fab shop. He's swamped with company work and this is a side job he's working on with me to include some custom bike fab he does for me.

I'll keep you posted. I'm funding the project and he's making it happen for me to get cost down to extreme minimums. I wouldn't expect to see an aluminum design for a while as design and mock-up are the key to ensure we have it right before we produce the final product.

He has suspension and chassis products doing 130mph through the desert; he knows what he's doing! Function, safety, and quality are his ethos or his name does not go on it.

 

[zelatore]

People have asked if/when I would get rid of my ARB since I've been fairly vocal about it's shortcomings for my application.

This might be the sort of thing that would do it. If I could drop weight, gain winch access, gain approach angle, and have a bolt-on/separately removable bull bar so I could still remove a headlight if needed....well, that would be interesting indeed.

We could possibly find a few other people interested as well.

Do keep us posted!

 

[Victory_Overland]

I am moving into post military retired life so I am clearing out my projects. Finishing a custom bike build to flip and pay for another flying certification and then back to my LR playpen! Right now, Victory mods are on the back-burner but Josh continues to plug away on the aluminum bumper design and we expect to have something in metal form in a few months.

With that said, I am off to pick up my new alternator as mine took its final whine last night just down the street. Victory has been sitting on the trickle charger overnight and it took about 21 minutes to get the alternator out. I have to say, as horrible of a place to hang the alternator that low on the LR3/4, thank god its easy to get to. I am definetely going to keep a spare in my parts bin for weekend trips seeing what others have gone through on the trail.

I didn't replace the alternator when I replaced just about every part on the front of the engine. With the alternator change today, the only part left from Factory is the power steering pump and A/C pump.

"""""knocks on wood""""""

 

[Victory_Overland]

AC/Heater door flapper!

Anyone know the best way to get to the heater/AC door flapper? Not sure if that is what it's called but my AC blows luke warm in AUTO on the passenger side. I am hearing that is a known sticking issue. Seems to even out in MANUAL but in AUTO it's easily 5-8 degrees warmer on the passenger side so I think the auto door is sticking somewhere.

AC recharge is good a few months back and blows plenty cold and holds pressure just fine so I believe it to be behind the console in the heater box.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

 

[Victory_Overland]

Ball Joint and Tie-Rod end taper angles

Does anyone know the angles for the front ball joint and tie rod end taper on LR3/4. My buddy emailed me and he has seemed to have caused some damage to his taper holes on one of his steering knuckles. I'm thinking he can run a tapered reamer in it but we need to know what angles? I've done this on US Domestics but have no clue what the angle is on the Landy knuckles/ball ends.

I figure worst case is we go a size over if needed and see what end has the correct threads to go to the steering arm.

Looking for factory taper angles for the front steering if anyone knows.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Victory_Overland]

What a beauty!

In true fashion, I love all classic 4x4 as much as I love the LR line up. Passed this classic FJ60 on the H3 freeway on Oahu today.......unbelievably clean, super classy and ************ 4x4 Yota. Just thought I would pass it on!

 

[Ian_Barry]

Wiggs got it covered on Disco3.

That should at least get you started. There he is solving an issue of it making noise, but I believe the same component could be your culprit.

Hope it helps!

Cheers,

Ian

 

[Victory_Overland]

Wiggs got it covered on Disco3.

That should at least get you started. There he is solving an issue of it making noise, but I believe the same component could be your culprit.

Hope it helps!

Cheers,

Ian

Thanks Ian! Looks like I might have a dash board removal in the future if I want to fix this. I might see if I can get to the door through the glovebox and run high compressed air into the doorway and see if dust or gunk is the issue.

First thing will be to see if something fell out of the glovebox and is stuck on the door on that side. Might just stick with what I have if an easy fix is not possible.

Cheers on the link,

E