Project Victory_Overland 08 LR3 Build Thread!

[Victory_Overland]

Tried to shoot you a PM to pick your brain on your bumper project, I am in the works of getting some bumpers designed and then hopefully made in the next month or so!

Cleared out my PM inbox. Sorry about that. Try again.

 

[Victory_Overland]

17" OEM wheels are on the way!

Thanks to A.J.M., I am one step closer to my 17" wheel modification on Victory; he was able to pick me up a good set of five 17" Disco 3 wheels! He cleaned them up, palletized them up and received the shipping quote from UPS. An unbelievably cheap process as of now but hard work on Alan's side; I'll be super excited when they show up. If all goes well, they should be making their way to Hawaii starting next week Friday!

They are solid wheels with a bit of trail rash which I am okay with. Nothing the pressure washer, some sanding, and good paint can't fix!

Thank again A.J.M...........to you and Alfie!

Alan's dog Alfie, inspecting and verifying the wheels are proper and ready for cleaning and shipping!


Not my Rover, but a 17" set on a EURO Disco 3! More sidewall and tire options available!

 

[Victory_Overland]

I'm planning to get my control arms on order this weekend. I plan to do RRS arms where applicable.

Does anyone know of the best place to order and ship from? I've used AB for my big projects before and they have helped with shipping to Hawaii; I just want to see who has the market for great LR genuine parts for my suspension rebuild.

I'm doing first:

front uppers and lowers
All new hardware
Tie rods
Sway bar bushings/links
Cv boots and repack grease

I plan to order the rear as well but most likely will not get to it right away. They can sit on the shelf for now.

Any suggestions from anyone on other things to order while I have the front end apart?

I considered doing wheel bearings since I'm approaching 100k. Any thoughts on if it's easy or hard? Is it a hub unit or bearing packs?

 

[DiscoDavis]

I'm planning to get my control arms on order this weekend. I plan to do RRS arms where applicable.

Does anyone know of the best place to order and ship from? I've used AB for my big projects before and they have helped with shipping to Hawaii; I just want to see who has the market for great LR genuine parts for my suspension rebuild.

I use Rovers North for a lot of genuine parts. Just a bit harder to search since they use an internal numbering system. You can call to ask them for help too. Highly recommend.

I considered doing wheel bearings since I'm approaching 100k. Any thoughts on if it's easy or hard? Is it a hub unit or bearing packs?

Hub unit just bolts in

 

[Victory_Overland]

I use Rovers North for a lot of genuine parts. Just a bit harder to search since they use an internal numbering system. You can call to ask them for help too. Highly recommend.



Hub unit just bolts in

Thanks broski. I'll give them a shout tomorrow morning or Monday morning and order. That way I can tell them I need RRS control arms for my LR3 too.

 

[Jwestpro]

What's your tire plan? I'm sure you're aware the 17 is 7" wide rather than the 18x8. I've just decided myself, I think, to stay wider and put in 285/70-18 BFG km2 rather than my other test fitted choice of 255/80-17. The tread is just too narrow for this type of tire under the 7000-8000 lbs, mainly the proportion of width to sidewall had me concerned about lateral stability at speed.

However, my extreme winter tire is 245/75-17 and it's more appropriate for those conditions I think than the narrower KM2 would be. The winter, studded E load actually improves its performance with the narrowness of course.

 

[Victory_Overland]

So I'm leaving the westside of the island after my early morning flight over to Molokai island and back and I hear this clanking around under my truck; broken swing arm link! It must have happened last week when I was up on trails at the North Shore. Bummer.

On a lighter note, here's a snap I took from 2000 feet coming back to Oahu from Molokai.

Koko Head Crater South Side Oahu at Makapu'u Point.

 

[tdhunter13]

Hey man,

I knew you had asked the question about ordering stuff to me before, see comment #34 & #39 HERE. My suggestion for the parts remains the same. I would source your pricing from Landrover Merriam Parts and then see how much AB will price match. In most cases it isn't a ton, just a few percent off their profit margin, but once you add it all together it makes a nice difference. I would bet that it offsets shipping costs to Hawaii considerably with the amount you are ordering. My second suggestion would be to "pre-order" as many odds/ends pieces as you can now to save on future shipping. Things like bearings, oil drain plug, nuts/bolts, etc. Basically anything that is small and can be tossed in the massive boxes without any issue.
Hope you can order everything without too much hassle! Enjoy

 

[Victory_Overland]

Hey man,



I knew you had asked the question about ordering stuff to me before, see comment #34 & #39 HERE. My suggestion for the parts remains the same. I would source your pricing from Landrover Merriam Parts and then see how much AB will price match. In most cases it isn't a ton, just a few percent off their profit margin, but once you add it all together it makes a nice difference. I would bet that it offsets shipping costs to Hawaii considerably with the amount you are ordering. My second suggestion would be to "pre-order" as many odds/ends pieces as you can now to save on future shipping. Things like bearings, oil drain plug, nuts/bolts, etc. Basically anything that is small and can be tossed in the massive boxes without any issue.

Hope you can order everything without too much hassle! Enjoy

I used LR Merriam for my keys and they were awesome. I do plan to order more small items as fillers and spares. I did that last time and AB packed everything nice and easy. I have many of the small engine compartment stuff on my spares shelf from that order to include some switches, hoses, thermostat, fittings, etc.

The goal is all new hardware underneath and then have some spares. I also am considering going to coils while I have the whole suspension ripped apart!

Any thoughts?

 

[Victory_Overland]

What's your tire plan? I'm sure you're aware the 17 is 7" wide rather than the 18x8. I've just decided myself, I think, to stay wider and put in 285/70-18 BFG km2 rather than my other test fitted choice of 255/80-17. The tread is just too narrow for this type of tire under the 7000-8000 lbs, mainly the proportion of width to sidewall had me concerned about lateral stability at speed.

However, my extreme winter tire is 245/75-17 and it's more appropriate for those conditions I think than the narrower KM2 would be. The winter, studded E load actually improves its performance with the narrowness of course.

I am looking at BFG MT KM2 265/70R17 E-rated for the trial set up. It's 10.5" wide on a 7" wide wheel so although not 100% ideal for the road, its going to be perfect for the trail. I will gain about 1.75" of sidewall and stay under a 32" diameter tire which is my goal. This opens up many more options for tire selection compared to anything available in 18-19 wheels for cost, availability, etc.

Lateral stability was initially a concern, but my research and conversations with BFG and Disco Parts in Germany have me confident it's not going to be an issue. If anything, the concern is running an MT on the road in the first place as they are made for performance in that area at all. Wet roads on MT are evil so my driving style is and will always be tailored to the fact I'm driving a heavy SUV and not blinded out lowered Range Rover. Disco Parts runs a similar size on their Disco 3 with 17" wheels and they love them.

I have not decided 100% on BFG or Cooper STT Pros. I will admit I've gone back and forth a bit on both. My 18" OEM wheels have Nitto AT on them and I will replace them with BFG AT or GY Duratrac when the time comes. At or about stock size for the 18 wheels for daily use.

I have watched your tire size reviews extensively and you debunked my concern for steering knuckle and hub contact with this size tire. I do not believe I will need spacer but if so, I have a set now I can use. Since these tires are much smaller than what you are running, I expect no issues outside of some minor trimming and AC line relocation that I planned to do anyway.

 

[Jwestpro]

I am looking at BFG MT KM2 265/70R17 E-rated for the trial set up. It's 10.5" wide on a 7" wide wheel so although not 100% ideal for the road, its going to be perfect for the trail.
-
Lateral stability was initially a concern, but my research and conversations with BFG and Disco Parts in Germany have me confident it's not going to be an issue.
-
I have watched your tire size reviews extensively and you debunked my concern for steering knuckle and hub contact with this size tire. I do not believe I will need spacer but if so, I have a set now I can use. Since these tires are much smaller than what you are running, I expect no issues outside of some minor trimming and AC line relocation that I planned to do anyway.

LOL, I completely overlooked that size when pulling tires in for test fitting at home. I think I posted that I test fitted the following: 1st pair-275/70-18 duratrac and bbfg ko2, then 2nd pair bfg km2 in 255/80-17 and 285/70-18. After talking with a long time Disco 2 guy who actually prefers "tall-n-skinny" when possible, I decided on the 285/70-18 which is a hair under 34" but still barely wider than the bfg ko2 265/65-18 which in turn is the same size as a 265/70-17 as you are aware.

So, yes, my first concern and test was UCA rubbing at full droop. It cleared fine, close, but fine but I went ahead and flattened the outermost edge back anyway just to gain a little more gap and shape it into a rounded contact surface rather than the factory stamped sharp edge.

The only way this tire width can truly "fit" and "function" in all situations is to be on a tucked in factory wheel without any spacer. Anyone who says 33"-34" "fit" while using a spacer of any depth or probably even on the wider offset Compomotives, without a body lift or actual sheet metal cutting, and wheel well liner removal, are full of.... BS

However, your idea of squeezing the 265 onto a 7" wide wheel...hmm, i don't like but we all see people with jeeps and trucks having tires way too wide for the wheel. Ideally you'd use a, 8" wide 17 wheel with offset identical to the 18x8. That would be so sweet but it's simply impossible to find, I think. I wonder what Mudtech has found like that.

So, I thought that even though the 255/80-17 was PERFECT on the 7" wide wheel, and would more safely tuck up during full articulation, while making full lock turns easier, it just seemed too narrow for my lr3 weight. I'd use it in a heart beat on the D2 though on a steel 7" wide. Or the 265/75x16 on a factory 8" wide alloy.

I'm really interested in seeing how lateral stability feels if you go with that 265 on a 7". Unless it's at 50 psi +, I expect it to feel vary wallowing on the highway.

Today I modified my starboard side slider to move toward the rear by 1/8". LOL modifying modified/aftermarket parts. This was necessary because, as some may know, the left and right wheels can be asymmetrical by a small amount in where they make contact but you notice when pushing tight margins. Then I also had to bend up the bottom trim/guard on the ARB bumper - the little wing that shields the washer bottle, which I had already changed to be tucked up and forward as tight as possible.

(Side note rant: What a DUMB place to put a washer bottle and completely insane place to put the life-line air suspension valve block where even a little fender bender or bad line on a trail could break and air line fitting - then - poof, you're done, very done.)

Today I also removed my Kaymar tire carrier arm to grind down to steel removing the rust and repaint. What a pain the in butt :/ Anyone get a newer one of these recently? I wonder if they are galvanized yet. They should be!

Today I also created more space at the "frame horn" tight spot by removing the cover plate which had been put in place almost 10 yrs ago after cutting off the "horns". This increased that spots clearance by about 1/2" which is exactly where a full lock turn puts the tire edge.

Then underneath I modified the Rasta transmission plate turning up it's edges to allow better fitting against the Rover Specialties sliders. They'd always been in contact but my slider move rearward, required this as well.

Next I'll be refitting the snorkle with a better gasket/seal at contact with body to make it actually watertight.

Ooh, I really need to show you the hvac lines job I did and parts you should get before starting to make it awesome. It now has 0% influence on the fender liner and is 100% protected from any chance of damage.

 

[DiscoNels]

Today I modified my starboard side slider to move toward the rear by 1/8". LOL modifying modified/aftermarket parts. This was necessary because, as some may know, the left and right wheels can be asymmetrical by a small amount in where they make contact but you notice when pushing tight margins. Then I also had to bend up the bottom trim/guard on the ARB bumper - the little wing that shields the washer bottle, which I had already changed to be tucked up and forward as tight as possible.

So, you have Rover Specialties sliders, I do too. I was wondering exactly what you did to move the right side slider back by 1/8". My front right tire rubs too and if it's not too big a job I may do what you're doing. Does this cause any issue at the rear tire or is there plenty of room to accommodate the 1/8"?

P.S. How are you sliders holding up with the original powder coating? Mine are 4 years old and peeling and rusting. I'll have to remove and either repaint or coat some day.

 

[Victory_Overland]

So, I thought that even though the 255/80-17 was PERFECT on the 7" wide wheel, and would more safely tuck up during full articulation, while making full lock turns easier, it just seemed too narrow for my lr3 weight. I'd use it in a heart beat on the D2 though on a steel 7" wide. Or the 265/75x16 on a factory 8" wide alloy.

If I was going BFG AT I would have any option I want. 255 would be the best at a 32" diameter for me. Maybe when I get back to the mainland and don't need a dedicated mud tire, I'll change them out to AT on the 17" set. Then sell the 18" cuz I'll never go back.

BFG AT come in any size we want in E rated. I can only get C rated in that size for MT so that's why my one size up to 265 choice is not perfect but close enough. FYI, BFG recommended wheel size for that size tire is 7"-9.5" so I'm in the spec and expect it to be a non-issue!

 

[tdhunter13]

I used LR Merriam for my keys and they were awesome. I do plan to order more small items as fillers and spares. I did that last time and AB packed everything nice and easy. I have many of the small engine compartment stuff on my spares shelf from that order to include some switches, hoses, thermostat, fittings, etc.

The goal is all new hardware underneath and then have some spares. I also am considering going to coils while I have the whole suspension ripped apart!

Any thoughts?

Sounds like you have a solid game plan on ordering parts. Off hand I can't think of any spares, that you haven't mentioned, that you should add to your list.

As far as going to coils while you have it ripped open, well I can't offer much advice there. I've only had my 3 since Sept. and I am trailing basically EVERYONE on the forums in mileage at 65k (currently). So coils have not been on my radar at all, but the other guys on here have been doing some solid write-ups and reviews that I'm sure you've seen. However with that said, imo, if you aren't doing consistent and fairly significant offroading I think the EAS has more pros than cons. The other big factor is if this is your daily, if so accomplishing everything in a long weekend is going to be really ambitious, judging from doing my front LCAs. Even if you have every physical part needed, all it takes is one tool (in my case an impact universal joint) to halt progress until you can get it. But as they say, there is no time like the present especially since it'll be nice and open. Either way, good luck!

 

[Victory_Overland]

Sounds like you have a solid game plan on ordering parts. Off hand, I can't think of any spares, that you haven't mentioned, that you should add to your list.

As far as going to coils while you have it ripped open, well I can't offer much advice there. I've only had my 3 since Sept. and I am trailing basically EVERYONE on the forums in mileage at 65k (currently). So coils have not been on my radar at all, but the other guys on here have been doing some solid write-ups and reviews that I'm sure you've seen. However with that said, imo, if you aren't doing consistent and fairly significant offroading I think the EAS has more pros than cons. The other big factor is if this is your daily, if so accomplishing everything in a long weekend is going to be really ambitious, judging from doing my front LCAs. Even if you have every physical part needed, all it takes is one tool (in my case an impact universal joint) to halt progress until you can get it. But as they say, there is no time like the present especially since it'll be nice and open. Either way, good luck!

Very solid points on all. As a matter of fact, it is not my daily and I have another vehicle and motorcycle and moped to drive while its down. I actually plan to put it up on jack stands in the carport as high as possible for the week and get it done as I can. I will work daily on it, but not in a sense of rushing on a time limit as I am expecting to have some issues. "Plan for the worst and hope for the best". I have air and impact and all the goodies so I should be good. I'll keep my old control arms and maybe rebuild them with my shop press but not something I want to do right now.

With that said, the EAS is great, my take is I am hoping and praying and throwing chicken bones that ARB is going to make BP-51s direct bolt on for the Disco 3/4. My endstate for this rig is full overland vehicle as my Tesla Model III is going to be my new car and when it's built and delivered in about 9-12 months....lol Since my truck was technically totalled when I had the accident, its now a salvage title even though its in perfect condition. It was totalled on repair cost alone from Land Rover since shipping and labor to Hawaii is so expensive the insurance company wrote it off and allowed me to buy it back for pennies on the dollar. My resale would be garbage just because of the title so I am keeping it as its a great truck.

I will be stripping everything in the rig out except one back seat (Left) and the rest will be center fridge and sleeping platform. Coils will be optimal to reduce my "what ifs" factor later on in life. My EAS works great right now so maybe I'll leave it alone and just save the pennies for the coil upgrade when needed.

Thanks for the advice, it's always great to hear constructive thought process from like minds.