So, you have Rover Specialties sliders, I do too. I was wondering exactly what you did to move the right side slider back by 1/8". My front right tire rubs too and if it's not too big a job I may do what you're doing. Does this cause any issue at the rear tire or is there plenty of room to accommodate the 1/8"?
P.S. How are you sliders holding up with the original powder coating? Mine are 4 years old and peeling and rusting. I'll have to remove and either repaint or coat some day.
Drop slider, note the 2 primary mount holes that are simply a circle slightly larger than bolt. Compare this to the 6 sill bolt holes which are longer 'slots' which allows for assured alighnment. Consider how much is needed in elongating the 2 main bolt holes in similar fashion.
I used a round file, took a few minutes to elongate the hole by roughly 1/8". Take care to realize which direction you need to create space to alllw slider to move further in opposite direction, away from front wheel.
. There is sufficient space at rear wheel to not recreate same problem.
More complex than the slider though is the bit of sheet metal which sits just behind the slider boxed end and in mine, touched the slider itself. Obviously this must be pushed back to allow slider room to move. In the event this ever goes back to stock, I want the metal to be there for trim to connect with so instead of cutting I bent and folded it back. Flattened out the tab, then bent up at deeper crease line. Any metal altered there I sprayed with a zinc paint (Rustoleum pro to be specific)
Slider condition: bought mine back in 2007. By 2009 there were huge patches of peeling coating and the bozos were so "surprised" LOL Their work was pure ********. I was naive then and knew nothing about metal work or finishing.
I got fed up with concept of the garbage coating being actually worse for the situation by holding in moisture! After basic research, I landed on galvanizing being the best plan. This is what those fools should've done in the first place. It didn't even cost much !
I worked with two shops, one blasted all the crap off, then they went to galvanize, then back to blaster for light media prep just to provide best surface for powder coating. The coating was actually done after a few months curing time (much longer than needed but I just had other things going on). This shop has their main business as industrial and architectural powdercoating so these were done to last outside long term. Most people are surprised these weigh 100 lbs each side!
I've made two other alterations to how the air compressor side mounts. The rear lip which comes close to the compressor I bent outward a bit to allow a little more space for compressor body during bouncy times. I also spaced the slider away/down from the sill by means of galvanized washers stacked above the sill bolt holes. This allows for compressor to still be mounted using the floating feet on the tucked up mount bracket without vibrating against the slider. Mine is currently the AMK.
Starting with the rear bolt hole of 6, I think I stacked 4 washers, then 3,2,1 then none over last 2. It might've been 4432 or 3321 I'm not sure now. The idea is what matters here as it may be different for someone else's vehicle. Keep in mind this requires, ideally, longer sill bolts. I like the ones with built in washer shoulder then add a washer too. Proably an M8x40.
I also found it annoying, after years LOL, that the sliders could "clank" the frame where they just sit against it. So recently I applied a rubber gasket interface made of garage door bottom weather seal! This stuff comes in a flat roll that I guess attaches to bottom of a garage door in a U shape but left on its own is flat and about 2.5" wide, thin and durable. I stuck it on with 3M brand HD outdoor double side thick tape. Works great, no more wonky sounds over bumps, etc. I only used it in the sections where contact occurred which was obvious after using them for years. The non contact points serve as natural drainage ports too.
Good luck.
