Project Weekend Warrior (A slow Chevrolet Dmax Express Camper Build)

[Campbulance]

Well, I took a week off from work so going to be working on the van this week. Last weekend I finished removing the windows out of the passenger van doors I bought. Still a pain in the butt but I bought betterdrill bits and that made it easier. I have a window guy coming out tomorrow to pull out the old windows. Hopefully by the end of the day tomorrow I will have my vented windows installed. I will need to drill the mounting holes into the doors since they are absent in the cargo van.

I bought a larger rivet tool at Harbor Freight and while I was there used a 20% coupon and picked up one of their 1000 watt inverters. Also ordered the 1/4" rivets from Mcmaster since no one stocks the diameter. Hope they get here in time to finish the windows.

 

[BigC]

As far as the double layer of insulation goes, I had the same question when I was doing my van and ended up doubling it up. Afterwards I did some more research and found that doubling reflectix offers a very poor return on investment. a single layer of reflectix when attached directly to a wall offers about R-5 or so. When you double it up, the second layer only increases that value by about R-1.5. Doesn't really make too much sense to me, but that's what their information says. But like you said, if it's just taking up space, you might as well use it, every bit helps!

 

[BigC]

Looking forward to seeing your build coming a long, it's looking good! Will be subbed and tagging along.

 

[Campbulance]

As far as the double layer of insulation goes, I had the same question when I was doing my van and ended up doubling it up. Afterwards I did some more research and found that doubling reflectix offers a very poor return on investment. a single layer of reflectix when attached directly to a wall offers about R-5 or so. When you double it up, the second layer only increases that value by about R-1.5. Doesn't really make too much sense to me, but that's what their information says. But like you said, if it's just taking up space, you might as well use it, every bit helps!

Thanks for checking my build out. I have seen those numbers as well. I believe they are referring to when you put reflection on top of each other. I was going to be putting a layer of the radiant barrier in between so hopefully that helps more.

On a lesser note! I forgot to mention that the tape I have been using has been separating from the van rails. Not sure if it is not enough surface area or the metal expanding and popping the adhesive. I though it would have worked better. I am going to spray some adhesive on the reflection to help it along.

 

[BigC]

I was going to be putting a layer of the radiant barrier in between so hopefully that helps more.

On a lesser note! I forgot to mention that the tape I have been using has been separating from the van rails. Not sure if it is not enough surface area or the metal expanding and popping the adhesive. I though it would have worked better. I am going to spray some adhesive on the reflection to help it along.

Ah, if that is the case then it should help out quite a bit! If I had it all to do over, I'd just attach more insulation to the back of the wall panels I installed, and fill the gap with some denim insulation. What kind of tape did you use? I toyed with the idea of taping mine, but ended up using spray adhesive on everything.

 

[Petrolburner]

The only downside to more insulation would be if it makes reattaching the wall panels harder because of the thickness. If that's not a problem then layer it up! Hot or cold more insulation is better. I did my walls with heating duct insulation, self adhesive foam with foil backing. If I were to add any more, I'd get a big roll of Thinsulate to fill in the dead space. It doesn't absorb water and would fill up the bigger areas better. I'm probably not going to be doing it though. My list of projects is way too long as is with a half dozen motorcycles to maintain.

 

[Campbulance]

The only downside to more insulation would be if it makes reattaching the wall panels harder because of the thickness. If that's not a problem then layer it up! Hot or cold more insulation is better. I did my walls with heating duct insulation, self adhesive foam with foil backing. If I were to add any more, I'd get a big roll of Thinsulate to fill in the dead space. It doesn't absorb water and would fill up the bigger areas better. I'm probably not going to be doing it though. My list of projects is way too long as is with a half dozen motorcycles to maintain.

My insulation is going to fall underneath the rails that cage the van body. I am going to directly attach my panels to the rails so it will work perfectly for me. Totaled up it will be about 1" thickness. It will go sheet metal, 3/8" Denim radiant barrier -> Reflectix -> 3/8" barrier -> Reflectix -> Wood Panel.

Ah, if that is the case then it should help out quite a bit! If I had it all to do over, I'd just attach more insulation to the back of the wall panels I installed, and fill the gap with some denim insulation. What kind of tape did you use? I toyed with the idea of taping mine, but ended up using spray adhesive on everything.

I used aluminum tape used for ducting. It usually holds really well. We used it at my old job to tape thermocouples to things in the oven and it would hold up to 300 degrees surface temperature. It could be the wait of the relectix along with vibrations and small surface area. The areas that are problematic I will spray some adhesive in there to see if it helps.

Quick update. I had the windows pulled out of the van and started putting in the vented passenger van windows. Looks good although on my first window misdrilled the holes and the window is a little crooked. I am about to go try and repair it and finish the job. I had to wait for rivets since no one stocks 1/4' Rivets. The bottom posts are not installed yet sso they flop freely.

Here are a couple of pics of the windows.






Looking back at the process, I dont know if I would do it again. So far to do the windows I have spent 350 on 4 passenger doors, 220 for the windows to be pulled and the one stationary windowed to be installed. I had that one done since the new windows are tinited and this matches the rest of them. Plus another 50 bucks on tools and supplies. Call it 600 all together for 3 venting windows. One bonus is that they are all tinted which is something I would have done down the road so call that 200 bucks.

At $400 dollars it may have been easier to just by a Opening side window and cut a hole in the van. You have to drill the holes for the hinged windows since none of the are there. So my install was not as perfect as it would have been from the factory. I though about installing the hole door but that would mean painting the doors and that probably costs more and may not match either. As a bonus I did get factory plastic panels that I am going to use as well.

 

[86cj]

I have had the roof rack noise issue you brought up, just a simple crossbar from my contractor rack caused a weird random roof noise at higher speeds. A simple fairing works and does not even have to fit well to work, something about high strength steel and the roof rib adhesive flexing?

I dented my roof leaning on it first week I think, a roof rack is a must and you made a nice one for your van, mounting your rack further back also helps protect the plastic trim piece from loading damage.

Thanks for posting the window info, I am getting ready to change the non movable glass to a pop out on my 40 door, same thing you did to your 60 door. I am glad I ordered the rivets when I ordered the glass then, the guy who installed my windshield told me to get a bigger rivet gun when I do it, too funny.

Looking back would you try and cut the window out and save the cash? I almost had the windshield guy cut my door glass out at the same time but I did not have time for the install.

Don't feel to bad about the money, the door glass I wanted is not a common option you did fine.................

That is a sweet GM van, a good color and wheels with a diesel and a Dana rear axle...... I am trying to figure out if your big airbox will fit a 5.3 hmmm

 

[Campbulance]

I have had the roof rack noise issue you brought up, just a simple crossbar from my contractor rack caused a weird random roof noise at higher speeds. A simple fairing works and does not even have to fit well to work, something about high strength steel and the roof rib adhesive flexing?

I dented my roof leaning on it first week I think, a roof rack is a must and you made a nice one for your van, mounting your rack further back also helps protect the plastic trim piece from loading damage.

Thanks for posting the window info, I am getting ready to change the non movable glass to a pop out on my 40 door, same thing you did to your 60 door. I am glad I ordered the rivets when I ordered the glass then, the guy who installed my windshield told me to get a bigger rivet gun when I do it, too funny.

Looking back would you try and cut the window out and save the cash? I almost had the windshield guy cut my door glass out at the same time but I did not have time for the install.

Don't feel to bad about the money, the door glass I wanted is not a common option you did fine.................

That is a sweet GM van, a good color and wheels with a diesel and a Dana rear axle...... I am trying to figure out if your big airbox will fit a 5.3 hmmm

If you can find the right tools than maybe. I was dis-appointed in the guy that did the work as he scratched the van in a few places. I know that these guys are usually taking out broken windows and it is easier that way. He charged 40 dollars per window to remove so the price of the tools could easily reach that price point. If you are doing just the one window it would be up to you if you like doing that type of stuff or not. Basically the guy used a right angled bladed tool that hooked into the adhesive seal that had a pull handle to travel along the perimeter of the window. Then he used a long handled razor blade holder to cut through the rest of the adhesive. He also had to cut the tabs off of the windows to get to the epoxy at the bottom of the window. After the window is out he used a scraper tool to remove the rest of the adhesive and then swabbed paint onto the scrape marks which will happen regardless of how careful you are to prevent rust. Took him about 3 hours to cut 5 windows out and put one in.

Here are the finished photos of my window swap. I was lazy after this and didn't get anything else done. during the week off.

 

[Campbulance]

Long awaited small update...
I got around to making a wind deflector for the roof rack. I designed up a aluminum bracket and plate to mount to the roof rack. I had the pieces laser cut and then a friend from work welded up the bracket for me. Just got done mounting it this morning. I will have to take it down and repaint it, but that will be another time. Drove it around today and up to 80 mph there is no more vibrations and howling from the wind. After looking at it mounted seems overkill but it works great.

Here are some pics.

 

[Travelin _man]

Very nice build. Cant wait to see more.