Question on GAP IIDT + J Rods, vs GAP vs J Rods
- Thread starter Angry_Man
- Start date
Chris Cordes
Expedition Leader
If you run the suspension maxed out you will not only have a very uncomfortable ride but will most likely blow the bags. You're also running components at angles they were never meant to operate at long term.
He's right though in saying its a cumulative effect.
He's right though in saying its a cumulative effect.
Scott Brady
Founder
I believe the rods and the IID Tool are the appropriate solution, though primarily to shift the maximum adjustment range for using the IID Tool. The IID Tool can only lift the trucks about 20-50mm (on average) depending on how far the sensors are up in their calibration range. For example, I could only lift my Range Rover 20mm with the IID Tool, because one of the rear arms was already nearly 200 on the cal.
By installing the rods, it moves the truck up and then you can fine tune with the IID, reducing the lift slightly or even adding a bit more. For the LR4, I found that the rod lift + 10mm in the rear was about the maximum we could go and still reliably achieve "Off-Road" height.
Given that a suspension "lift" with these cars is only a few rods and an IID Tool, the cost is low. Go with the best solution and do both.
By installing the rods, it moves the truck up and then you can fine tune with the IID, reducing the lift slightly or even adding a bit more. For the LR4, I found that the rod lift + 10mm in the rear was about the maximum we could go and still reliably achieve "Off-Road" height.
Given that a suspension "lift" with these cars is only a few rods and an IID Tool, the cost is low. Go with the best solution and do both.
That's what I was looking for, thank you Scott.
Personally I would start with the IID lift. Then get some adjustable rods if you want to go higher. Since the IID tool is soo handy. You can have the best of both worlds.
.
Install the rods for how much lift you want after the tool (if needed, I didn't).
Get it aligned
Drive to trail. Plug in the tool and jack it up.
Drive around nice and high
When you're done, plug in the tool and take it back down.
.
There is no reason to stay up that high with you have the tool. Get it back down so you can safely drive it home. Just jack it up at the trail head with the tool
Finlayforprez
Observer
Personally I would start with the IID lift. Then get some adjustable rods if you want to go higher. Since the IID tool is soo handy. You can have the best of both worlds.
.
Install the rods for how much lift you want after the tool (if needed, I didn't).
Get it aligned
Drive to trail. Plug in the tool and jack it up.
Drive around nice and high
When you're done, plug in the tool and take it back down.
.
There is no reason to stay up that high with you have the tool. Get it back down so you can safely drive it home. Just jack it up at the trail head with the tool
This is exactly what I do and it works great. I love the functionality of the tool and features that it offers. In addition, the support is awesome.
I was going to run rods full time, especially after I got 18" Compomotives and better off-road tires, but I decided to just keep it at standard height. While I like the look of it jacked up a little, I already have so much crap on the roof, extra weight with sliders/skids, and soon a front/rear bumper with carrier. If I ever go with MT tires, then I would definitely need to use rods, but for now I am fine and get the extra lift I need on the trails, as well as the extra features of the IIDTool. I have the bluetooth version, so it's very handy.
Scott I don't understand this; can you or someone help me? Does this have to do with trucks coming from that factory with randomly different specs, or do the sensors move over time, system re-calibrate itself over time, etc?
I am confused as to how in this example the Range Rover could only be raised by 20 mm as a rear arm was already maxed out?
In this example would the rods allow a full 2.5" of lift even though the IID tool only allowed 20 mm?
I am just trying to learn the system better.
My personal experience was that I could go in and lift my LR3 50 mm no problem with the IID tool, even though I didn't stay at that height.
I have not tried with the Sport, but I want to.
Thank you
morrisdl
Adventurer
Wow - I had always thought of short arms and the IID as two 'lift' solutions, but I totally understand now that they are also complementary. Going to buy and IID now...
Scott. I think if the IID tool cant get you to "off-road" height +2", then the OEM "super extended mode" would not have worked either.
Eniam, The ride height sensors have a max range. When the system ride height is calibrated as part of an alignment (typically done by your dealer), the sensors should be about in the middle of their functional range. Lets say the access height is near the bottom of the range, and super-extended is at the top. The IID tool can only adjust the truck within that range. Shorter arms shift the entire sensor range up 2-3". With both eventually you will max out the upper limits of the airbag/suspension components, but its very possible with the IID tool alone you could not get there.
Scott. I think if the IID tool cant get you to "off-road" height +2", then the OEM "super extended mode" would not have worked either.
Eniam, The ride height sensors have a max range. When the system ride height is calibrated as part of an alignment (typically done by your dealer), the sensors should be about in the middle of their functional range. Lets say the access height is near the bottom of the range, and super-extended is at the top. The IID tool can only adjust the truck within that range. Shorter arms shift the entire sensor range up 2-3". With both eventually you will max out the upper limits of the airbag/suspension components, but its very possible with the IID tool alone you could not get there.