RAM vs. Ford SRW Chassis Cab for Flatbed Grandby?

CTDJeeperman

Active member
I would recommend getting what you want with the 3500 CC DRW and then swap it out to SRW yourself. That way you can get up to a 14K GVWR and if you choose the right wheels/tires you can keep that high GVWR with singles (or at least real close). One of the AEV employees on the AEV forum did a similar DRW to SRW swap on a new Chassis Cab for his camper build and I believe the axle WMS is nearly identical front/rear, which is not the case for the normal 3500 pickup trucks.
 

2025 deleted member

Well-known member
Now ya got me to digging around in photos, Scott! I think this shot best describes what Sioux and I (and really most of us) love. A high mountain campsite (in this case Quartz Basin east of Pagosa Springs, CO) with a trout stream running beside it with no one within a radius of five miles!
View attachment 381532

Now why would I try to "improve" on a combo that can give us this? :)

North or south of the highway? I assume before you get to the pass?
 

Durango

Adventurer
I would recommend getting what you want with the 3500 CC DRW and then swap it out to SRW yourself. That way you can get up to a 14K GVWR and if you choose the right wheels/tires you can keep that high GVWR with singles (or at least real close). One of the AEV employees on the AEV forum did a similar DRW to SRW swap on a new Chassis Cab for his camper build and I believe the axle WMS is nearly identical front/rear, which is not the case for the normal 3500 pickup trucks.
An interesting idea. Questions:

1. If you switch to single rear wheels aren't you right back to the same GVWR or are there other changes strengthening the DRW chassis cabs?

2. Does making the wheel switch affect the mfrs. warranty?

3. I've heard it can be very expensive and with questionable reliability switching over. Read some bad comments about "Rickson". Bear in mind I haven't researched this option.

4. Approximate cost?

5. Forgive me but what does WMS stand for?

Thanks for the idea.
 

Durango

Adventurer
Have you scaled your current truck without the camper on? My '14 is 8360 with just me and daily crap in it so probably nets around 8100.
I did both before and after I pulled the factory bed and had the custom aluminum bed with boxes added. I can't find the weights but know it was 200# lighter with the flatbed. Alos I scaled it after I had the Hawk mounted and with full tanks and most (but not all) of the crap we carry and it was 9800#!
 

Durango

Adventurer
North or south of the highway? I assume before you get to the pass?

About 10 miles north out of Pagosa, east side of HWY long before the pass there is a forest service road. I believe it is called the East Fork. Up about 6-7 miles and then turn right into Quartz Basin. If you go straight you cross Elwood Pass into the heart of the South San Juans. I had planned on doing this but the ranger told me, " don't do that with your Ram and camper if you love your truck". He was right.

We tried it with the Rubicon and it would have done it but the weather was crappy so we turned back. Very pretty area.

Disclaimer: My Colorado Benchmark is out in the camper and it is cold and dark outside so I'm going on memory on all of the above distances, etc.
 

js9234

Observer
I fell in love with Pagosa Springs last year. Went in April and August. Definitely heading back to do some camping and fishing in that area when it warms up.
About 10 miles north out of Pagosa, east side of HWY long before the pass there is a forest service road. I believe it is called the East Fork. Up about 6-7 miles and then turn right into Quartz Basin. If you go straight you cross Elwood Pass into the heart of the South San Juans. I had planned on doing this but the ranger told me, " don't do that with your Ram and camper if you love your truck". He was right.

We tried it with the Rubicon and it would have done it but the weather was crappy so we turned back. Very pretty area.

Disclaimer: My Colorado Benchmark is out in the camper and it is cold and dark outside so I'm going on memory on all of the above distances, etc.
 
3500 Cab Chassis is made for this demographic! Some Cab Chassis food for thought (in no particular order):
  • Lockers are available (unlike 4500/5500)
  • 10000 lb GVW is an "on paper" de-rating for certain areas so no CDL is required.
  • 2 cab to axle measurements available (60" is like a long bed pick up) 84" also available (like mine)
  • Stock fuel capacity is 52 gallons with an aux 22 gallon tank available for 74 gallon total. (on a trip like our Arctic trip last year that would equate to a 1200 mi range with 41" swampers!)
  • Diesel (and gas I believe) tanks have ports to hook up accessories directly and will not empty the tank completely. Generators, stove tops, boilers etc...no need to drill the tank, just plug in.
  • Ambulance prep package gets you additional AC ports to plug another evaporator into for the camper
  • PTO Prep gets you a hard wired remote start
  • Cab chassis all include the aux buttons and mini power port with relays and fuses (like an Spod)
  • All AEV parts fit including intake, suspension, wheels, hood etc.
  • UNLIKE a dually pickup where the rear axle is ~4" wider, the cab chassis rear axle is approx the same as the front end making a SRW conversion very very easy, the same wheel can work all the way around. On the AEV wheel, the center hole needs to be bored out to 4.75" in order to clear the hub. Add some shorter wheel studs and voila an SRW conversion.
  • On a single cab, a pass though is an approved modification by Ram.
  • As mentioned, tons of Alternator options up to 440A

IMG_4780.jpg
IMG_4782.jpg
IMG_4784.jpg
DSC_2334.jpg

This vehicle:
  • 41 Iroks, AEV wheels
  • AEV Bumper / Warn 16.5
  • AEV 3" suspension
  • AEV Highmark Flares
  • AEV Heat Reduction Hood
  • AEV Raised Air Intake
  • 4.30 Gears/ARB Lockers
  • Ambulance Prep/PTO Prep
  • 74 Gallons of Fuel
  • Vision X Lightbar
  • Amp Steps
  • Custom "Hearing Aid Beige" paint
 

Durango

Adventurer
3500 Cab Chassis is made for this demographic! Some Cab Chassis food for thought (in no particular order):
  • UNLIKE a dually pickup where the rear axle is ~4" wider, the cab chassis rear axle is approx the same as the front end making a SRW conversion very very easy, the same wheel can work all the way around. On the AEV wheel, the center hole needs to be bored out to 4.75" in order to clear the hub. Add some shorter wheel studs and voila an SRW conversion.

That is quite the vehicle, AEV! So since you have obviously "been there- done that" my questions on buying a DRW and converting it over to SRW:

1. If I convert it down to SRW won't I be right back to the same basic GVWR? Or are the DRW's also built "stronger" in other areas than tires/rims? What other advantes does a DRW 3500 bring to the equation?

2. So if I go with a DRW Ram and the higher GVWR does that mean a SDL will be required? (I'm in Colorado.)

3. So with a 3500 Chassis Cab DRW to SRW change the only thing needed is to remove the front spacers, change out studs and add SRW wheels? I went to your AEV site. Which one of your wheels would you recommend for this? Who would do the 4.75" drilling? You folks or a machine shop?

Thanks in advance for your help and experience!

Steve

BTW, I think I would stay with the 60" CA size. That extra 2 feet would be nice but a 108" or so long camper will already be the height of luxury for us!
 

STREGA

Explorer
Great info AEV. When I bought my cab/chassis I got contradictory info from the dealership and Adventure Trailer, I went with what AT said.
 

Durango

Adventurer
Great info AEV. When I bought my cab/chassis I got contradictory info from the dealership and Adventure Trailer, I went with what AT said.

Your experience has been very valuable too, STREGA! I'm thinking about pondering more on the vehicle choice, etc.

When did you find the factory kicked in the incentives on your Ram chassis cab? Especially if I go the DRW to SRW conversion there might be quite a few out there with my (so far) desired 6.4 Hemi/ Aisin tranny/ 60" CA combo.
 

STREGA

Explorer
Your experience has been very valuable too, STREGA! I'm thinking about pondering more on the vehicle choice, etc.

When did you find the factory kicked in the incentives on your Ram chassis cab? Especially if I go the DRW to SRW conversion there might be quite a few out there with my (so far) desired 6.4 Hemi/ Aisin tranny/ 60" CA combo.

Bought the CC towards the end of August. Besides the normal Ram rebate of $3500? they said the rest of the incentive was from the factory to help move units that had been sitting on the lot for awhile and was good through the month of August. Sounds plausible but dealerships do have trouble with the truth sometimes.

Not exactly sure if buying a DRW just to turn it into a SRW is going to get you more truck, just a higher GVWR on paper? Maybe the AEV guys know that answer. When I bought my truck they ask me what I wanted to register its GVWR at, the higher the # the more $$ the DMV wanted so it's possible to raise the GVWR on paper at least in Arizona. I went with 10K, if it gets scaled and it weighed 10,001 lbs or more there would be a fine levied.
 
Will do my best to answer a confusing subject after a confusing day :/

  • There is a 10K GVW 3500 cab chassis in SRW, that rating is an on paper rating for certain states that require a CDL for stuff over, I think that is for people like plumbers, using the trucks commercially. I do not think that applies to RVs, most states are go by vehicle weight for an RV, normally 26K.
  • The DRW 3500 obviously has a much higher rear GAWR and thats based on the wheels/tires by deduction...same axle width, same basic housing, same gears and brakes same leaf spring width etc...So doing a SRW conversion, the wheel and tire is certainly the limiter.
  • Lets say you build a truck that has 8000lbs on the rear axle and the rear axle GAWR is 10000. Great, no issues...


BUT

  • Lets say your wheels and tires are rated at 4100 ea...thats great too, its over 8000lbs.
  • However if you go to a tire shop and have them do work on the truck, they legally can't put a tire on the truck that is not rated to the GAWR listed on the truck...


SO
  • On a cab chassis truck, you the builder can de-rate (not up-rate) the GAWR I believe.
  • Or you can install wheels and tires that meet or exceed the listed GAWR's

For Reference, my 84" truck: (keep in mind with the 84, that will typcially put more weight on the front axle in a camper conversion, which is good)
Front GAWR 6000
Rear GAWR 9850
GVWR 14000


On my truck, I put on the IROKs as sort of a temporary solution...I REALLY like those tires so hopefully I can build light enough to use them with no issues, I'm really hoping to stick with the 17" wheel. There is an IROK 39.5 rated at 4100 and our 17x10 wheel will be rated at 4100 in the next batch. (the current 17x10 wheels are rated at 3650 and we made no structural changes to them other than re-testing at the higher rating and changing the markings) I will wait and see what my camper comes out to in the end before finalizing wheels/tires and my tire placard.

dh
 
Last edited:

CBE

New member
Does the 3500 SRW Cab Chassis have the wide track front axle like the 4500/5500 DRWs? I would purchase what ever model required, Ford or Ram, to get the better turning radius of the wider front axle. If it meant dually and I had to single it out, then I would do it. The 45 degrees of wheel cut on the wide front axle is a huge, meaningful difference in maneuverability.
 

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