Rango.....1942 Willys MB

[alosix]

It would probably be pretty simple to megasquirt. I'm fairly sure I've seen setups that just gutted the carb and put in a plate for throttle body injection.

I generally prefer fuel injection.. but I generally have an easier time trouble shooting it vs working on a carb.

There was a point where I was looking at doing MPI on my Tornado 230 (M7x5 engine).. looked like a fun project, then I found a Hemi drivetrain cheap and scrapped the idea.

Jason

 

[Metcalf]

The odd-fire buick is a weird one to put fuel injection on. You generally have to run a crank trigger for RPM 'sense' for the computer. The odd fire pattern won't clean up enough from the distributor.

Fuel injection requires too many electronics for a basic vehicle like this IMOO. Don't get me wrong, it would be great for performance, cold starting, altitude adjustment, and general drive-ability.

The carburetor is pretty simple overall without a lot of parts the just fail. You can 'make-do' without a perfect running carb to get you back home. As mentioned you can use a bottle on the roof to feed the carb if your fuel pump goes.

To me, the ultimate would be a smaller mechanically injected turbo diesel. That way you get fuel injection like performance but mechanical simplicity.

 

[Metcalf]

Note: If I had an even-fire engine I would be very tempted to try adapting a mass-air 3.8L v-6 ford injection system

 

[teamfta]

Your build is awesome! What size tires are you planning for? What leaf springs are you gonna use?

 

[Metcalf]

Thank you. There really hasn't been much building yet....

I designed the frame to use 'rear' springs at all 4 corners. These will be the narrow flat-fender style springs. I will most likely be using the 1" lift version from Superlift. I will be using some slightly longer shackles to 'tune' the lift height front to back. It will still be SUA. The wheelbase is getting pushed out to 86" also with the longer front springs and relocated mounts.

So far I am planning on using a 36x13.5x15 Bias Irok Swamper. These will be glued to 10" wide black 'dimple hole' steel wheels. These tires run big too. The bigger tires are basically just to let me keep up in the deep snow. With the projected weight being approx 3000lbs I should be able to float really well in the deep stuff. The irok, while it wears pretty quick, is a pretty good all around tire.....deep snow, rocks, sand, etc. They are affordable and fairly light weight. Its all just a balance and someone else would probably make a totally different choice on tires......

 

[Metcalf]

Question....

Does anyone happen to know what provides the 'location' on a Dana 18 input gear in a factory application? Does the input gear hit a step on the transmission output shaft, or does it just hit the bearing? Or??

Need some input here. Thanks.

 

[Bodo]

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/dana_18_rebuild_guide.htm

 

[Metcalf]

Does anyone happen to know what part 33 locates against to set the depth of the gear tooth contact front to back?

Thanks.

 

[Renrag]

Does anyone happen to know what part 33 locates against to set the depth of the gear tooth contact front to back?

Thanks.

On a D20, it bolts onto the output shaft of the trans if my foggy old memory serves me well.

mikE(not that helpful)

 

[Metcalf]

Yes, on both the dana 20 and Dana 18 the input gear bolts to the transmission output shaft. I just need to know what it locates against. I don't have anything original to check in the yard....

 

[Renrag]

Yes, on both the dana 20 and Dana 18 the input gear bolts to the transmission output shaft. I just need to know what it locates against. I don't have anything original to check in the yard....

Oh, sorry. Again, foggy old memory. Nothing. The tcase bolts on to the trans and the alignment ring on the back of the trans just locates the tcase in the right place for the gears to mesh.

mikE(still not much help)

 

[Metcalf]

I got the replacement SM420 ready to go into the jeep for EJS. After EJS hopefully the major tear down will begin.

The laser cut frame plates came in as did the frame tubing. I will probably start cutting the tubing for the frame this week.

I did come up with a slight issue with the body work. The factory rear tool boxes on the MB on the rear fender wells just don't look like they will work with the larger tires and 3" rearward axle position. I really like these little tool boxes, but I just don't know if its worth the extra work/cost to try and keep them.

If I don't keep them the rear tubs can be done with just some quick sheet metal boxes on top after cutting the factory tops off the old wheel tubs.

I'm going to give it a third look, but I don't see too many other options.

 

[svaras]

Cool build, looking forward to see the final result.
As per your tire choice, think twice...I ended up changing the Iroks Bias on my Willys because I was sick about vibrations and the way they handle when you are braking. I think the radial would be better.
Keep on the good work :smiley_drive:

 

[Metcalf]

Svaras! I didn't know you watched this board. I loved your flatty build on pirate, probably one of the biggest inspirations to rebuild my '42.

I hear you on the bias tires. I keep going back and forth on it. I generally run radials, but the bias Irok is a good performing tire, affordable, and big for their size. They are also pretty light too.

I have also been looking at the 365/75R16 or 345/75R16 BFG KM2 They are pretty affordable for their size at under $300 a tire. The difference in wheels is pretty much a wash. I like the KM2, but I don't think they are extraordinarily better than anything else. Generally I like how radial tires air down. Once you get in the larger sizes I just don't know if I can justify the added cost for the larger radials.

 

[svaras]

Svaras! I didn't know you watched this board. I loved your flatty build on pirate, probably one of the biggest inspirations to rebuild my '42.

I hear you on the bias tires. I keep going back and forth on it. I generally run radials, but the bias Irok is a good performing tire, affordable, and big for their size. They are also pretty light too.

I have also been looking at the 365/75R16 or 345/75R16 BFG KM2 They are pretty affordable for their size at under $300 a tire. The difference in wheels is pretty much a wash. I like the KM2, but I don't think they are extraordinarily better than anything else. Generally I like how radial tires air down. Once you get in the larger sizes I just don't know if I can justify the added cost for the larger radials.

Yep, been here for a long time :victory:
Glad to know my MB inspired you....same thing happen to me with The Mad Brit ahahaah.
The KM2 is a nice all around tire. Up to now I had only test them on the street and sand...so far so good. Also I think they look great.
Rgds
Sebastian