JeeperJake
Observer
Looking very nice! Keep up the good work.
Redeth's Overland Trailer Build
- Thread starter Redeth005
- Start date
Redeth005
Adventurer
Finally after over a month of putting the trailer project on hold i'm back at it again. I busted my driver side birfield on my 89 4runner during this past year's Tierra Del Sol offroad event in March. Spent alot of time and money repairing, upgrading, rebuilding the knuckles/seals and beefing up the front axle with Marlin Crawler knuckle gussets.
Anyway now that the tow vehicle is put together again i started back up on the trailer.
During the week i wired up a thermostat for the on board forced air Propex HS2000 heater. I'll have do some research on how to work with propane gas lines. Apparently a portion of this is going to have to be hard line.
Then today i ground down the entire rear compartment and primered the whole thing inside and out. Although i had the trailer covered with tarps and all the moisture from the recent Ill Nino rain storms had gotten into the trailer and caused it to get alot of surface rust. So rather than dealing with that again i ground it all down with a wire wheel and made sure to get it all primed.
Another thing i wanted to do was get started on the on board heated water system. this is the water hose refill and air breather.
I had to figure out a way to mount this thing in place. So i used some spare 16 gauge sheet metal and bent it into a right angle then cut out a hole in the center so i could weld it to the trailer chassis and mount the plastic refill piece.
not the cleanest cut out but the inner cuts wont be visible when the metal is painted and the plastic part is mounted covering it up.
the rear view
Also welded on 2" spacers instead of using the plastic 2"body lift pieces that i posted from my neighbors donation.
Originally i wanted to make the rear compartment removable. but i learned that the plastic spacers would not work out because the bolts that would need to be used to hold it in place would be mounted in bad spots. So i resorted to these metal spacers instead. This way i can just weld the entire rear compartment into place and not have to worry about it anymore.
I suppose the spacers could also work as some tie down points as well. This is where that white plastic water refill area will be. Yes i know it is just out there and vulnerable right now, but i do plan to add some rock sliders all around this thing and those will protect this for sure.
Done for the day. Didnt seem like i did much but i baked in the sun for 8 hours doing all this crap lol
Maybe next week i can get that water tank and rear compartment permanently mounted in place. and get started on getting the heated shower stuff mounted in the front compartment as well. We'll see how much i can get accomplished. Hopefully i don't have anymore hick-ups on this build that take up too much of my time
Anyway now that the tow vehicle is put together again i started back up on the trailer.
During the week i wired up a thermostat for the on board forced air Propex HS2000 heater. I'll have do some research on how to work with propane gas lines. Apparently a portion of this is going to have to be hard line.
Then today i ground down the entire rear compartment and primered the whole thing inside and out. Although i had the trailer covered with tarps and all the moisture from the recent Ill Nino rain storms had gotten into the trailer and caused it to get alot of surface rust. So rather than dealing with that again i ground it all down with a wire wheel and made sure to get it all primed.
Another thing i wanted to do was get started on the on board heated water system. this is the water hose refill and air breather.
I had to figure out a way to mount this thing in place. So i used some spare 16 gauge sheet metal and bent it into a right angle then cut out a hole in the center so i could weld it to the trailer chassis and mount the plastic refill piece.
not the cleanest cut out but the inner cuts wont be visible when the metal is painted and the plastic part is mounted covering it up.
the rear view
Also welded on 2" spacers instead of using the plastic 2"body lift pieces that i posted from my neighbors donation.
Originally i wanted to make the rear compartment removable. but i learned that the plastic spacers would not work out because the bolts that would need to be used to hold it in place would be mounted in bad spots. So i resorted to these metal spacers instead. This way i can just weld the entire rear compartment into place and not have to worry about it anymore.
I suppose the spacers could also work as some tie down points as well. This is where that white plastic water refill area will be. Yes i know it is just out there and vulnerable right now, but i do plan to add some rock sliders all around this thing and those will protect this for sure.
Done for the day. Didnt seem like i did much but i baked in the sun for 8 hours doing all this crap lol
Maybe next week i can get that water tank and rear compartment permanently mounted in place. and get started on getting the heated shower stuff mounted in the front compartment as well. We'll see how much i can get accomplished. Hopefully i don't have anymore hick-ups on this build that take up too much of my time
Redeth005
Adventurer
Man its been a while since I've worked on the trailer.. but if you follow my instagram page you will see what I've done before it's posted on here. Yesterday I spent the entire morning thinking up of ways to make custom shock mounts for the trailer project and I finally figured it out. I cut off the stock rear 4Runner shock mounts that were already welded to the chassis and i fabricated some basic gussets that would hold the stock ones in the new location. Then I made the mounts which will mount to the axle housing using 2"×2" square tube 1/8" thick.These mounts will work perfectly with the 8.5" Monroe shocks that @chefyota4x4 donated to me for the project. Once welded in place the shocks will have 4" of up travel and 4.5" of down travel. which I think is plenty for a trailer. Not like I'm building a rock crawler out of this lol.
Here they are all mounted in to place! The trailer finally has shocks! I just need to find stock upper shock bolts to fit these. But I'm set on suspension now! In the end they had about 4.25" up travel and 4.25" down travel. It's all good. It will still work good.
Here's a close up if the mounts I made that I welded to the rear most crossmember which is normally used for the stock spare tire carrier on these 4runners.
Passenger side
Driver side
A few forum members both on Expeditionportal and YotaTech.com suggested I should add a gusset from my trailer hitch to the first cross member for support in case I ever need to have a vehicle pull the trailer from the rear bumper if I was ever to get stuck. I think they had a valid point. Without this gusset the load would be entirely on the thin bumper and it would be ruined for sure. This definitely beefs up the hitch for emergencies if needed.
Here they are all mounted in to place! The trailer finally has shocks! I just need to find stock upper shock bolts to fit these. But I'm set on suspension now! In the end they had about 4.25" up travel and 4.25" down travel. It's all good. It will still work good.
Here's a close up if the mounts I made that I welded to the rear most crossmember which is normally used for the stock spare tire carrier on these 4runners.
Passenger side
Driver side
A few forum members both on Expeditionportal and YotaTech.com suggested I should add a gusset from my trailer hitch to the first cross member for support in case I ever need to have a vehicle pull the trailer from the rear bumper if I was ever to get stuck. I think they had a valid point. Without this gusset the load would be entirely on the thin bumper and it would be ruined for sure. This definitely beefs up the hitch for emergencies if needed.
Redeth005
Adventurer
I got some pretty good progress in today with the on board shower system.
I found some wire grommets in my tool boxes from when i installed power windows into my truck and they just so happened to be the perfect size for the the vinyl tubing to pass through into the front compartment.
Hole made in the rear lower left corner of the front compartment
This will work perfect to keep the tubing from getting damaged from constant rubbing
It was tough to get the tubing in but it fits!
By this time i had already painted the inside and all around the exterior of that front compartment I figured it was a good time to do it now that the hole was made. I also mounted the EccoTemp heated shower to the door but not before adding some tubes on the rear side of the water heater welded to the actual door to stabilize the unit from shaking like crazy when i drive. I only added them to the bottom of the door so i may still have to add 2 more to the top side but for now it works and doesn't shake at all.
So one of the things i wish the vendor of my water tank hadn't done was make their own hole into the tank because it just so happens that every hole i needed to use was everything except the one they made into the tank lol.
Fortunately the vendor included this temporaty orange plug shown in this picture below to keep dust out.
So I just plugged up that hole by cutting half of it off and and pushing the entire plug into the hole as far as it could go. Then i finalized the plug with some JB Weld to make sure it would hold. I'm sure this will work just fine in keeping water from spilling out.
Also made a trip to Home Depot and bought some Bolts, washers and nuts with nylon threads. It was only about 5 bucks. But it will definitely keep this baby in place!
Top View.
The hose that curves provides the water to the tank via water hose.
The other hose that goes straight is meant for air to exit the tank as it is being filled.
Enough Typing. Here is a short video i had posted on my instagram page explaining and showing how this awesome shower system works! Hope you enjoy!
Off the grid trailer heated shower - YouTube
I found some wire grommets in my tool boxes from when i installed power windows into my truck and they just so happened to be the perfect size for the the vinyl tubing to pass through into the front compartment.
Hole made in the rear lower left corner of the front compartment
This will work perfect to keep the tubing from getting damaged from constant rubbing
It was tough to get the tubing in but it fits!
By this time i had already painted the inside and all around the exterior of that front compartment I figured it was a good time to do it now that the hole was made. I also mounted the EccoTemp heated shower to the door but not before adding some tubes on the rear side of the water heater welded to the actual door to stabilize the unit from shaking like crazy when i drive. I only added them to the bottom of the door so i may still have to add 2 more to the top side but for now it works and doesn't shake at all.
So one of the things i wish the vendor of my water tank hadn't done was make their own hole into the tank because it just so happens that every hole i needed to use was everything except the one they made into the tank lol.
Fortunately the vendor included this temporaty orange plug shown in this picture below to keep dust out.
So I just plugged up that hole by cutting half of it off and and pushing the entire plug into the hole as far as it could go. Then i finalized the plug with some JB Weld to make sure it would hold. I'm sure this will work just fine in keeping water from spilling out.
Also made a trip to Home Depot and bought some Bolts, washers and nuts with nylon threads. It was only about 5 bucks. But it will definitely keep this baby in place!
Top View.
The hose that curves provides the water to the tank via water hose.
The other hose that goes straight is meant for air to exit the tank as it is being filled.
Enough Typing. Here is a short video i had posted on my instagram page explaining and showing how this awesome shower system works! Hope you enjoy!
Off the grid trailer heated shower - YouTube
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Curtis in Texas
Adventurer
I fear your are going good to fall victim of hydraulics on the tank plug once you start bouncing down the road with water in that tank.
Would have been better to screw in a nipple plug if it were threaded. Or used an expanding threaded plug.
If that tank were steel or aluminum I would say the JB Weld would hold, but a plastic tank flexes too much I think for it to last.
Maybe hold for a year or more but eventually it's going to either leak or pop like a champagne bottle.
I've used bolted rubber plugs with success where I didn't have threads to use.
I hope I'm wrong because those water tanks aren't cheap.
Would have been better to screw in a nipple plug if it were threaded. Or used an expanding threaded plug.
If that tank were steel or aluminum I would say the JB Weld would hold, but a plastic tank flexes too much I think for it to last.
Maybe hold for a year or more but eventually it's going to either leak or pop like a champagne bottle.
I've used bolted rubber plugs with success where I didn't have threads to use.
I hope I'm wrong because those water tanks aren't cheap.
Redeth005
Adventurer
I was looking into what you said and i think a nipple plug would work great. What you said kinda scared me and im still a noob with this overland stuff so i'll take your word on it lol. One thing i was wondering though was the JB weld that i used said it's good for use on multiple surfaces which included plastics and pcv.
This is the package i used
Do you still think that the plug will fail in the future? I guess i can go ahead and try to pull out the Jb-weld plug and go with a nipple plug. Just hoping i dont ruin the threads in the process of taking it out. I may need to use some small picks to get it all out. it would definitely be more secure that's for sure.
I'll look into it maybe on my way home from work today ill drop by home depot and buy one. Can't cost more then $2 I'd rather pay that now then spend another $120 for a replacement tank.
Curtis in Texas
Adventurer
Think water balloon hitting a sidewalk.
Yea I'd buy a plug and if you have to buy a tap to clean the threads.
Yea I'd buy a plug and if you have to buy a tap to clean the threads.
Redeth005
Adventurer
I checked up on the plug before leaving to work today and man that thing is really solid on there. It may take some work to get the stupid plug out haha. And the tap is a great idea thanks I hadn't even thought about that.
Redeth005
Adventurer
I finally go my "Propex Heatsource HS2000" heater working. Here is a video I uploaded to YouTube. It is a full review/explanation of how this thing is set up, how it works, how many operating hours it is estimated to get, amp usage, Pretty much all the questions I had when I was looking into buying this were answered in my review because other online videos and websites don't go into depth with the details I wanted to know.
Well here ya go everyone. You have any questions just ask and ill do my best to answer.
https://youtu.be/_YKnDl9MVDw
Well here ya go everyone. You have any questions just ask and ill do my best to answer.
https://youtu.be/_YKnDl9MVDw
Curtis in Texas
Adventurer
Well done!
Redeth005
Adventurer
Thanks. I'm not the best narrator when trying to explain things while on camera lol voice gets all shakey. :agree:
Curtis in Texas
Adventurer
I wouldn't worry about it. You covered information completely and answered a lot of questions openly and clearly.
Sometimes those slick Sales Pitchmen a real turn off for me.
I was a TV cameraman back in college. I didn't stick with it for a reason.
You did good!
Sometimes those slick Sales Pitchmen a real turn off for me.
I was a TV cameraman back in college. I didn't stick with it for a reason.
You did good!
Redeth005
Adventurer
So i had originally planned to make a slide out drawer system using skateboard bearings to hold the weight of my future Engel 60 liter Combi Fridge/Freezer but in the end i found the task to be a bit too complicated. So i went with the next best thing. I just got done ordering these 36" 500lb weight capacity ball bearing slide out drawers each slide measures 3/4" wide and is 3" tall and it telescopes out 36" these will be perfect. The fridge weighs 75lbs. So im assuming with it fully loaded i shouldn't be carrying anymore then 125 max. So this heavy duty slide will kinda be overkill but at least i know it will get the job done with no problem.
Here is the fridge/freezer that i am gonna buy eventually. Im building this particular compartment specifically to the dimensions of this fridge
https://www.amazon.com/Engel-Portable-Fridge-Freezer-110-Volt/dp/B001OTI7IS
Here's an amazing presentation of the same model i plan to buy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_mau-hoB1U
So I bought the pair of sliders on Amazon for $115.95
Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/Drawer-Slide-Extension-Heavy-Capacity/dp/B0009OBPH4
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I am also looking into starting to set up the solar battery bank stuff so i ordered a few components for this as well.
These items were all bought at Home Depot online.
Here this is a 30amp SunForce Charge controller.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sunforce...Merch_Ship_Conf_2941496-_-pip_url__W499921557
And to pair up with it i decided to go with a solar panel that best fits the overall roof of the small front compartment. There will be a slight overhang of about 4 inches on the front side of the trailer but the width was the perfect size. The roof of my front compartment measures (45"x22.5") and the solar panel measures (40.16 x 26.37 in)
The 100watt Polycrystalline Solar Panel is made by Grape Solar. It produces
5.56 amps, 100watts, 18volts
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Grape-So...Merch_Ship_Conf_2941496-_-pip_url__W499921557
I also bought the mounting hardware for the solar panel which costed about 15 bucks. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Grape-So...ll-Off-Grid-Solar-Panels-GS-ZB-Fab1/205481382
In total i spent about $245 for these 3 products. I cant wait for them to all come in. I still have to look into battery banks. So far what i have learned from youtube and online websites is that if i do not plan to start an engine or generator like people have on RV Mobilehomes that the best choice would be to use two 6volt golf cart batteries in series. The reason for going this route is that you do not need Cold Cranking amps in a trailer build like this. All you need is the ability to drain your battery alot without damaging the battery. Something that will last very long. And from what i have read and researched 12v deep cycle batteries are not ideal for this unless you are running them on an actual vehicle or need them to actually start up a generator. Please correct me if i am wrong. I have not bought my batteries just yet for lack of funds but i am still open to suggestions.
So far i am stuck in between buying two 6v acid gold cart batteries or going with two 6v optima deep cycle batteries. I have had a tremendously great experience running both Optima red top and yellow top batteries in my offroad rig. With the large amount of demand for power that my vehicle has to run my offroad lights, 8000 Smittybilt Winch, and 1500watt sound system these batteries have never left me stranded ever! I love these batteries for many reasons. Mainly because they handle everything i can throw at them, but also because they are highly vibration resistant and because they are completely encapsulated meaning they are also leak proof! and that is something i definitely need on my rock crawling trips when my truck gets banged up left and right. Im sure i would need something of similar quality for my trailer. I went through 2 acid batteries before finally making the switch and i love them. But i love them for vehicles. I have no idea what the quality is like in their 6v versions.
Here are the specs to the optima 6v Batteries. Yet for the price i wonder if the 12v would be better. lol I'M SO CONFUSED!
http://www.optimabatteries.com/en-u...atteries-8010-044-6v-redtop-starting-battery/
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
On a side note i realize i need a power inverter if i plan to run my stuff. Luckily for me i already own one that i usually use on my wheeling trips with my small 2gallon Husky Air compressor when airing my tires back up on the trail. I have a Peak brand 3000watt power inverter (6000watt peak watts) i bought this about 1 year ago and i love it! starts up my compressor every time! So i figure rather then buy a small one to just use this one instead and permanently mount it into the trailer.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/PEAK-3000-Watt-Mobile-Power-Outlet-PKC1AW/203681140
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thats all for now guys. Hoping to get these items soon so i can continue this build!
Here is the fridge/freezer that i am gonna buy eventually. Im building this particular compartment specifically to the dimensions of this fridge
https://www.amazon.com/Engel-Portable-Fridge-Freezer-110-Volt/dp/B001OTI7IS
Here's an amazing presentation of the same model i plan to buy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_mau-hoB1U
So I bought the pair of sliders on Amazon for $115.95
Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/Drawer-Slide-Extension-Heavy-Capacity/dp/B0009OBPH4
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I am also looking into starting to set up the solar battery bank stuff so i ordered a few components for this as well.
These items were all bought at Home Depot online.
Here this is a 30amp SunForce Charge controller.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sunforce...Merch_Ship_Conf_2941496-_-pip_url__W499921557
And to pair up with it i decided to go with a solar panel that best fits the overall roof of the small front compartment. There will be a slight overhang of about 4 inches on the front side of the trailer but the width was the perfect size. The roof of my front compartment measures (45"x22.5") and the solar panel measures (40.16 x 26.37 in)
The 100watt Polycrystalline Solar Panel is made by Grape Solar. It produces
5.56 amps, 100watts, 18volts
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Grape-So...Merch_Ship_Conf_2941496-_-pip_url__W499921557
I also bought the mounting hardware for the solar panel which costed about 15 bucks. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Grape-So...ll-Off-Grid-Solar-Panels-GS-ZB-Fab1/205481382
In total i spent about $245 for these 3 products. I cant wait for them to all come in. I still have to look into battery banks. So far what i have learned from youtube and online websites is that if i do not plan to start an engine or generator like people have on RV Mobilehomes that the best choice would be to use two 6volt golf cart batteries in series. The reason for going this route is that you do not need Cold Cranking amps in a trailer build like this. All you need is the ability to drain your battery alot without damaging the battery. Something that will last very long. And from what i have read and researched 12v deep cycle batteries are not ideal for this unless you are running them on an actual vehicle or need them to actually start up a generator. Please correct me if i am wrong. I have not bought my batteries just yet for lack of funds but i am still open to suggestions.
So far i am stuck in between buying two 6v acid gold cart batteries or going with two 6v optima deep cycle batteries. I have had a tremendously great experience running both Optima red top and yellow top batteries in my offroad rig. With the large amount of demand for power that my vehicle has to run my offroad lights, 8000 Smittybilt Winch, and 1500watt sound system these batteries have never left me stranded ever! I love these batteries for many reasons. Mainly because they handle everything i can throw at them, but also because they are highly vibration resistant and because they are completely encapsulated meaning they are also leak proof! and that is something i definitely need on my rock crawling trips when my truck gets banged up left and right. Im sure i would need something of similar quality for my trailer. I went through 2 acid batteries before finally making the switch and i love them. But i love them for vehicles. I have no idea what the quality is like in their 6v versions.
Here are the specs to the optima 6v Batteries. Yet for the price i wonder if the 12v would be better. lol I'M SO CONFUSED!
http://www.optimabatteries.com/en-u...atteries-8010-044-6v-redtop-starting-battery/
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
On a side note i realize i need a power inverter if i plan to run my stuff. Luckily for me i already own one that i usually use on my wheeling trips with my small 2gallon Husky Air compressor when airing my tires back up on the trail. I have a Peak brand 3000watt power inverter (6000watt peak watts) i bought this about 1 year ago and i love it! starts up my compressor every time! So i figure rather then buy a small one to just use this one instead and permanently mount it into the trailer.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/PEAK-3000-Watt-Mobile-Power-Outlet-PKC1AW/203681140
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thats all for now guys. Hoping to get these items soon so i can continue this build!
Coachgeo
Explorer
Hey....... that place in this original post's pics... looks familure..... hmmm..... got any motorcycles there..... TriBota Tiger or two??:ylsmoke:
GET HER DONE:coffeedrink:
If Curtis like's it.... you're doing something right. He's not like Mikey.
Curtis give me a call or PM me if you don't have my new number recorded. Texted it to you long while back. Hope all is well. Look forward to your coming this way.
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Redeth005
Adventurer
Finally got some work done to the trailer. I took off the rear compartment so I could weld on the front wall for it followed by primering the wall and undercarriage. While the conpartment was off I took the liberty of painting the entire frame matte black since it was already primed a few weeks back. Once the primer on the rear compartment dried on the wall I painted front wall and full undercarriage matte black to make the paint job final. Then I put it back on the trailer frame and welded it into place permanently. Now we're all set for some major progress. Painting and welding has by far been the most time consuming tasks to do on this project. Especially when welding with crappy Flux core wire. Soon it will be fully enclosed!*
I'd like to give a shout out to my boy Renato from*@all4offroad*on Instagram*for hooking me up with 9 pairs of flex rock lights for both my 4runner and my trailer build! He worked out a good deal for my girlfriend, Fabiola, who bought these for me for our 8 year anniversary together and he was nice enough to throw in his super bright Tactical LED light into the deal. Gotta tell ya I'm so appreciative of all of this right now.*
Here are the super heavy duty drawer slide for the 12v Engel Combi 60 Liter fridge/freezer that will be housed in the front of the rear compartment. These are rated to hold up to 500 pounds. Seems a bit overkill for a 75lb electric fridge. Even while all loaded up I'm sure it won't weigh any more than 125lbs. So I know these drawer slides will be more than sufficient to handle the weight of a loaded up fridge. They measure 36" long while closed, 3" tall, and 3/4" thick for each slide.*
Dad and I working on the remaining 2 doors to the trailer. This one is gonna be the large rear 46"×24" door that will open upward toward the roof and be held open when small camper shell shocks.*
Took a break from the doors to weld on the skeleton or framing along the inner portion of the box that will hold up the rear driver side aluminum wall along with a center support to make it more sturdy but also keep the noise down when on the trail. The aluminium walls be held in place with 5/32" thick aluminum pop rivets just like the entire front compartment was made.*
Here's the finished view of that driver side wall
Pop Rivets every 3 inches seem to be the perfect distance to look decent but also o hole the walls up well. and this articulating Dewalt op rivet gun makes every angle a breeze to get to.
6 hours later the entire passenger side of the trailer is completely framed and aluminum walls are permanently riveted into place and looking really sweet. This trailer is really starting to look more awesome every time I add more stuff on to it! Ohhh the anticipation! Can't wait!*
Here is where got around to making the side compartment door that will open up to my future Engel Combi 64 liter Fridge/Freezer. But before I could completely finish it I ran out of pop rivets and paint so I gotta head back to home Depot and buy more supplies. Hoping to have this door and the rear compartment door finished by next weekend so I can start on the fenders, rock sliders and begin on some of the electrical trailer lights.
Also here is a hand held remote controller/relay assembly that i bought from SuperBrightLEDs. My buddy Mark (aka: Chefyota4x4 on Instagram & Yotatech.com) runs this set up and i works amazing. and for only $23 bucks why not right? It come with 2 controllers.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/wireless/wireless-remote-control-switch-with-key-fobs/1532/
Here is a quick video of how it works:
https://youtu.be/PoMiB_aihLk
I went with a 2 channel relay because i plan to use 2 sets oif lights on he trailer. 1) Rocklights for the floor directly under the trailer, and 2) exterior lighting to light up he immediate camp ground surrounding my trailer with the low power consumption LEDS that i posted up above made by All4Offroad.*
Here is 2 videos my friend Chefyota4x4 has made for his rock lights. But ill tell ya these lights definitely don't do it justice because they are brighter hen what this shows.*
https://youtu.be/Zv57hybvMBU
https://youtu.be/B2T8x19yVBg
His SUPER BRIGHT LED and All4Offorad set up working togeher
https://www.instagram.com/p/BG7TanotXyb/?taken-by=chefyota4x4
And i think out of all he pix this one does the lighting most justice in showing how bright they get. check out the link
https://www.instagram.com/p/BArE3KwNXz1/?taken-by=chefyota4x4
I'd like to give a shout out to my boy Renato from*@all4offroad*on Instagram*for hooking me up with 9 pairs of flex rock lights for both my 4runner and my trailer build! He worked out a good deal for my girlfriend, Fabiola, who bought these for me for our 8 year anniversary together and he was nice enough to throw in his super bright Tactical LED light into the deal. Gotta tell ya I'm so appreciative of all of this right now.*
Here are the super heavy duty drawer slide for the 12v Engel Combi 60 Liter fridge/freezer that will be housed in the front of the rear compartment. These are rated to hold up to 500 pounds. Seems a bit overkill for a 75lb electric fridge. Even while all loaded up I'm sure it won't weigh any more than 125lbs. So I know these drawer slides will be more than sufficient to handle the weight of a loaded up fridge. They measure 36" long while closed, 3" tall, and 3/4" thick for each slide.*
Dad and I working on the remaining 2 doors to the trailer. This one is gonna be the large rear 46"×24" door that will open upward toward the roof and be held open when small camper shell shocks.*
Took a break from the doors to weld on the skeleton or framing along the inner portion of the box that will hold up the rear driver side aluminum wall along with a center support to make it more sturdy but also keep the noise down when on the trail. The aluminium walls be held in place with 5/32" thick aluminum pop rivets just like the entire front compartment was made.*
Here's the finished view of that driver side wall
Pop Rivets every 3 inches seem to be the perfect distance to look decent but also o hole the walls up well. and this articulating Dewalt op rivet gun makes every angle a breeze to get to.
6 hours later the entire passenger side of the trailer is completely framed and aluminum walls are permanently riveted into place and looking really sweet. This trailer is really starting to look more awesome every time I add more stuff on to it! Ohhh the anticipation! Can't wait!*
Here is where got around to making the side compartment door that will open up to my future Engel Combi 64 liter Fridge/Freezer. But before I could completely finish it I ran out of pop rivets and paint so I gotta head back to home Depot and buy more supplies. Hoping to have this door and the rear compartment door finished by next weekend so I can start on the fenders, rock sliders and begin on some of the electrical trailer lights.
Also here is a hand held remote controller/relay assembly that i bought from SuperBrightLEDs. My buddy Mark (aka: Chefyota4x4 on Instagram & Yotatech.com) runs this set up and i works amazing. and for only $23 bucks why not right? It come with 2 controllers.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/wireless/wireless-remote-control-switch-with-key-fobs/1532/
Here is a quick video of how it works:
https://youtu.be/PoMiB_aihLk
I went with a 2 channel relay because i plan to use 2 sets oif lights on he trailer. 1) Rocklights for the floor directly under the trailer, and 2) exterior lighting to light up he immediate camp ground surrounding my trailer with the low power consumption LEDS that i posted up above made by All4Offroad.*
Here is 2 videos my friend Chefyota4x4 has made for his rock lights. But ill tell ya these lights definitely don't do it justice because they are brighter hen what this shows.*
https://youtu.be/Zv57hybvMBU
https://youtu.be/B2T8x19yVBg
His SUPER BRIGHT LED and All4Offorad set up working togeher
https://www.instagram.com/p/BG7TanotXyb/?taken-by=chefyota4x4
And i think out of all he pix this one does the lighting most justice in showing how bright they get. check out the link
https://www.instagram.com/p/BArE3KwNXz1/?taken-by=chefyota4x4