Refreshing the TJ - Build Thread

[thejafe]

Subscribing to this thread . Can't wait to see the finished product...

 

[That One Guy]

This is really nice, that front axle especially looks beautiful. You should powdercoat your wheels the color of the front ones... They actually look great that color, even though they're dirty. Subscribed!

 

[GP'd]

Subscribing to this thread . Can't wait to see the finished product...

Thanks! Trying to get as much done in as little time as possible so that I can actually get out and travel more.

This is really nice, that front axle especially looks beautiful. You should powdercoat your wheels the color of the front ones... They actually look great that color, even though they're dirty. Subscribed!

Thank you. I have considered changing the rims to black, however, I think i'm going to keep my dust look for a while. Now that I have Explorer disks in the rear I can get EBC Yellow pads. The EBC Green's I've been running on the Jeep Disk Brakes just don't give off that authentic dust look. Now my rims will have a consistent dirty color.

 

[That One Guy]

Now my rims will have a consistent dirty color.

Awesome!

 

[socaljeeper]

Nice build so far and you can't go wrong with the Currie parts. I plan on starting my 98 TJ soon. Why did you decide to use the OME 2" springs instead of using the Currie springs? Is it becasue the the additional 2 inches? Looking forward to watching this one.

 

[GP'd]

Nice build so far and you can't go wrong with the Currie parts. I plan on starting my 98 TJ soon. Why did you decide to use the OME 2" springs instead of using the Currie springs? Is it becasue the the additional 2 inches? Looking forward to watching this one.

Granted I have yet to drive on most of my Currie parts; I am incredibly pleased with the products they offer and the reputation they have built for themselves as users under abuse. Buy once philosophy.

I didn't end up with Currie springs because I know the OME 2" (Heavy Duty) will give me more like a 2.5-3" lift. I have been running 2" Spacers w/ sway bar disconnects for years and they have gotten me everywhere I need to go. When I decided to tackle this build, OME's were the first to come to mind because of their solid reputation for ride and quality. I also don't need more than a 2.5" lift to clear my 32" tires. The suspension travel I hope to net with my set up should be around 10 - 12", and I'd rather lift fenders to clear tires than raise the Jeep up any higher.

 

[GP'd]

Well, the progress during the last week has been fairly slow. Too busy with work during the week, and this past weekend I was in Mammoth Lakes fly fishing and spending time with friends at their cabin. Fortunately some required pieces came yesterday so I was able to install the shift kit and put new gaskets on the valve body.

Transmission Work Left: Clocking the transfer case and making the wiring harness

Rear Suspension Work Left: Install the rear buckets and coil pads and finalize the 8.8 suspension this weekend so I can start focusing on the front.

If I can finish those this weekend I should be in a good spot!

Pictures and more information to follow.

 

[thejafe]

I think that with flat fenders up front you're gonna end up with TONS of room for 32's. 32's and a 2.5" OME kit clear no problem with stock fenders . Are you planning on adding a swingout tire carrier or mounting the spare to the stock location?

Also, be prepared to run a CV/SYE kit as you're likely to experience rear driveline vibrations. Yes, you can drop the transfer case with washers but in my experience with running the OME 2.5" kit washers weren't enough to iron out the vibes. I got the CV/SYE and problem solved. I was even fortunate enough to be able use the same CV/SYE kit when I bumped up to my current 3.5" Rubicon Express coils.

 

[GP'd]

Jafe: Nice looking rig!

Answers to comments below:

I think that with flat fenders up front you're gonna end up with TONS of room for 32's. 32's and a 2.5" OME kit clear no problem with stock fenders

I will be modifying factory fenders to be high-line fenders. My current ones are already bent and dented so I picked up a set a few months back to replace them. Yes I may have room without modification, but with the 1.5"-2" engine lift, running factory or less bump stops, the 32"s will be close and if I upgrade to 33's it will be closer. I might as well address the rubber/metal collision issue while the truck is torn apart!

Are you planning on adding a swingout tire carrier or mounting the spare to the stock location?

Is one planned for the future? Yes. Currently I am running the 265/75-16 in the OEM location....barely.... I'm focusing on suspension and drive train critical components now. Accessories come later!

Also, be prepared to run a CV/SYE kit as you're likely to experience rear driveline vibrations. Yes, you can drop the transfer case with washers but in my experience with running the OME 2.5" kit washers weren't enough to iron out the vibes. I got the CV/SYE and problem solved. I was even fortunate enough to be able use the same CV/SYE kit when I bumped up to my current 3.5" Rubicon Express coils.

Already planned. Transfer case is in pieces on my bench at home right now for the SYE install. Goal is to have a 1.5" to 2" Engine Lift and flat bottom skid. With the AW4 swap I need to readdress the tranny mount anyway. Once I swap the tranny and transfer case back in, I can figure out the extended and collapsed for ordering. I set the pinion on the 8.8 at 15 Degrees.

 

[GP'd]

Last week I rebuilt the valve body on the AW4 and installed the shift kit.

A few pics:

Another bolt orientation diagram.

Lower Body.

Check Ball Locations.

Transfer case coming apart for the SYE.

And today the project will be finishing the rear and outboarding the shocks that just came in.

 

[GP'd]

Driver side frame cut and bucket placed. Time to go to the passenger side.

I put tinfoil in the gap on the tank so that no grinding sparks were trapped near the plastic.

 

[GP'd]

Well the rear buckets are tacked and shock limiting droop and compression were taken...

Cancel this thought: I think I should've gone for 10" shocks in the back. Not sure where my head was at taking the measurements, but I think going from a 18.3" (12" Current) Collapsed to 16.3" (10" Proposed) collapsed shock may be worth the 20% restocking fee. Thoughts? I forgot I added a factor for the collapsed coil size.

Bucket tacked in.

Future upper coil mount location.

Side Full Compression (Shock Bottomed)

Side Full Droop (Shock Extended)

 

[GP'd]

Posting more photos during my breaks between projects. It's nice to have a computer in the garage.

Upper coil brackets tacked, shocks installed and tires on. I definitely need to get some spacers for the wheels. With the narrower 8.8 and the new coil buckets and shocks I think I will need a 1.25" spacer to clear comfortably. I hate wheel spacers, but in this situation I am left with no choice.

Coils will be retained top and bottom. In this photo they are just about to unseat, giving me ~10.5" of travel at the moment. Time to figure out how I will be re-mounting the track bar...

 

[thejafe]

Posting more photos during my breaks between projects. It's nice to have a computer in the garage.

Upper coil brackets tacked, shocks installed and tires on. I definitely need to get some spacers for the wheels. With the narrower 8.8 and the new coil buckets and shocks I think I will need a 1.25" spacer to clear comfortably.

Keep up the good work! For your wheel spacers definitely look into Spidertrax if you haven't already. Very popular spacer and I personally ran 'em for years without issue:

 

[MattScott]

I would love to see your ideas for relocating the fuse box and computer.