resetting a bead tricks

[crawler#976]

This topic brought up memories of my favorite thread on Pirate4x4. I 100% guarrrrrrrrrrrranty this will bring a smile to your face, perhaps even a LOL.



http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=48962


:sombrero:

 

[Grim Reaper]

This topic brought up memories of my favorite thread on Pirate4x4. I 100% guarrrrrrrrrrrranty this will bring a smile to your face, perhaps even a LOL.



http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=48962


:sombrero:

Ohh man I completely forgot about that thread. Mosberg was funny dude. Shame he flipped out.

 

[kerry]

Watch it here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gmdo2T_g5FE&feature=related

and here with the wheel on the vehicle:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SIVLQCZJGAw&feature=related

 

[Paul R]

I've done the ether method a few times before and it wasn't all that bad. It works great! But you don't need all that much, I could see the problem if one were to unload half a can in it.

 

[Grim Reaper]

Here is a good one showing how the tire will try to suck off the bead.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_M0GNLvPmAg&feature=related

 

[KodiaK Commando]

I've never had the flame up issues that are illustrated on the Pirate link and the other videos. 2-3 seconds of starting fluid and I throw a lighted paper towel at the sidewall. The bead is reset and 15 pounds of air in my 37" MTR's and 20 pounds on my 35" BFG's. Of course I've mostly used this in the snow. I like the way the Arctic Truck guy igited it. I'll try that next time.

 

[charlieaarons]

Hello,

I've found that most of the time you can reset beads quite easily as mentioned above without the use of ether. With the tire off the truck, and a good high pressure compressor you can just "work" the tire around the bead while filling and most of the time she should start to catch and fill. If not the ratchet strap works really well (in fact one of the best "tools" to have on the trail IMO). Ether - while fun, is not that reliable a method, and not too practical on the trail, unless you carry some that is....

Here are some pics of our last tire moment on the Mog. Oh - and if your tires are the right size for your rim width, it should be quite easy.

http://www.4x4freedom.com/swift.htm

Good luck,
Tim
www.4x4freedom.com

Another way that doesn't involve redox reactions is to use a bicycle tube, nominal diameter = wheel diameter. Lube the bike tube with straight detergent, fill bike tube. Then tire will be pushed against opposide rim flange; fill tire with 3-5 psi air and quickly pull bike tube out. Tire should seat against near rim flange.
I have done this with my 220 lb tires on my Mog.

Charlie

 

[BigAl]

Here is a good one showing how the tire will try to suck off the bead.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_M0GNLvPmAg&feature=related

I've never seen one do that!

 

[Lynn]

Here is a good one showing how the tire will try to suck off the bead.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_M0GNLvPmAg&feature=related

I've seen this done, but never done it myself. However, that vid got me thinking...

What would happen if you took the valve core out? It seems to me that the 'whomp' would still seat the tire, but with the core out it could suck air in through the valve and not pull back off the seat.

What do you think?

 

[JJackson]

I have used the flamable method on quad tires, it does not take much fluid. Tire did jump a little after match was thrown, I would think that on a truck tire I would rather have it on the truck then on the ground in case someone was to happy with the starting fluid.

 

[ntsqd]

I've seen this done, but never done it myself. However, that vid got me thinking...

What would happen if you took the valve core out? It seems to me that the 'whomp' would still seat the tire, but with the core out it could suck air in through the valve and not pull back off the seat.

What do you think?

The folks I know who've done this say that removing the core is a requirement. They're also the ones who told me to spray a 'leader' on the ground so that you aren't too close to the tire when the fuel ignites.

 

[Grim Reaper]

I've seen this done, but never done it myself. However, that vid got me thinking...

What would happen if you took the valve core out? It seems to me that the 'whomp' would still seat the tire, but with the core out it could suck air in through the valve and not pull back off the seat.

What do you think?

Yep you need to have the core out if you don't have air ready.


Sometimes even with the core out it can't pull enough air to keep it from happening.

 

[nwoods]

Anyone have a picture or video of the rachet strap method?

 

[Fifthpro]

Well, funny you should ask. I am working on putting together some data, class, etc for my local Jeep club and plan to incorporate this. I have been waiting for the opportunity to present itself and snag the pics then but I am at a point that I just need to set this up and do it.

Transition to the ether method: Here is what I do and it works 80% of the time on the first try.

1. Take the tire and push it down with my foot so I can spray the ether at a mid point in the wheel.
2. I walk around and do this 5 times (tried 4, 6, 7, etc....but 5 is my number)
3. From the last location spray a bit along the tire to act as a fuse
4. Light it and as the flames develop I downward kick (not really a kick) with the toe of my boot along the side of the tire & POP it does its thing.
Note: I am not sure what the kick to the tire does but it increases the probability of this working expeditiously. It was how I was shown to do it and it works well.

I would have to say that this does come with a warning! I have seen it done a lot of different ways....and some not to safe in my opinion. Use your brain when you do this and realise that when it goes wrong it could cost you!

 

[Grim Reaper]

Well, funny you should ask. I am working on putting together some data, class, etc for my local Jeep club and plan to incorporate this. I have been waiting for the opportunity to present itself and snag the pics then but I am at a point that I just need to set this up and do it.

Transition to the ether method: Here is what I do and it works 80% of the time on the first try.

1. Take the tire and push it down with my foot so I can spray the ether at a mid point in the wheel.
2. I walk around and do this 5 times (tried 4, 6, 7, etc....but 5 is my number)
3. From the last location spray a bit along the tire to act as a fuse
4. Light it and as the flames develop I downward kick (not really a kick) with the toe of my boot along the side of the tire & POP it does its thing.
Note: I am not sure what the kick to the tire does but it increases the probability of this working expeditiously. It was how I was shown to do it and it works well.

I would have to say that this does come with a warning! I have seen it done a lot of different ways....and some not to safe in my opinion. Use your brain when you do this and realise that when it goes wrong it could cost you!

I would NEVER teach that to a class. That's a lawsuit waiting to happen. Some fool will do something stupid like catch themselves or the forest on fire and find an ambulance chasing lawyer and sue you.

Teach the ratchet strap or length of rope around the tread way of re-seating.


Personally if I have rope available I use that instead of a ratchet strap. A rope with a loop you and pull it tight enough to get it to seat and then just let it go when it starts to fill. Worse case you can tie it then take a stick to twist it even tighter.

With a ratchet strap you sometimes get enough tension that you have to let the air back out of the tire so you can release the ratchet. On a rim with a safety bead thats no big deal but it does take time. On a 16.5 rim you might loose the bead again since it lacks a safety bead on the rim.